Turbone

Theres more to it then just slapping on a few parts before you can start it. Have you got a new water pump? How about a rebuild kit for the oil pump? (about $30 from the dealer) New timing belts and tenshioners? You may not need all of it, but the peace of mind of having these parts replaced and not having to go back and do it down the road is nice. If you want to test it to see if it starts and runs, you need all that on. But the radiator and alternator dont need to be hooked up. Yes, you can run it for a minute without water. But thats it. Do you know the procedure for installing the timing belts yet?

I know the rear suspension can get mis-aligned, but I dont know what components need adjusting. Contact Caboobaroo, he's our resident alignment specialist. He aligned the rear on my RX.

I'll see if I can find some. Shot of the rear bumper after I got the car.

Kind of difficult to burn the mudflap this way tho.

Its better to mount the EA rails to the seats than try and figure out how to attach stuff to the body. I installed some Legacy seats in my 84 Brat this way and all I needed to do was move one of the rails using a couple of steel plates. And I'm moving this to Retrofitting.

I think I've seen that Hatch somewhere else before, maybe on the other side of the Mtns. I may have some parts for that Noah.

Is the plastic on the bumper also melted? I ask this because my 89 RX was like what you described. But it was from running the engine so hard and low on oil it eventually threw a rod out the top of the block. But before that happened, it also melted a lot of the plastic in the area around the muffler and inside the rear compartment. The PO may not be telling you the entire story for sure.

Pull the snorkus off the throttle body and dump a little gas in it. See if it wants to fire. If it does, then the inj or fuel lines could be plugged.

Anything ever done by Block has been posted here....more than once

Not sure who your parts source is, but 1stSubaru has them for $115ea.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112256

Legally, you cant junk a car here in WA without a title. But that doesnt mean its not possible. If you know the wrecker, he might take it and immediately crush it. But thats a worse case scenario. Hopefully the car will show up soon, in one piece.

Leave it be, Subaru said a long time ago that it was ok to run them that way. If they were bigger, they would need to be welded or pinned.

Caboobaroo is working on this right now in his 86 RX*. He's having problems finding the right setup for the x-member as his body style is a little different, it used to have a AT in it. He had to have a driveshaft made also.

I've seen and experienced mud before, but Bill........that takes the cake

Upgrading to XT6 swaybars helps a lot also.

My technique is to use my Makita cordless, a 3in buffer pad, a squirt bottle with water and a bottle of Griotts glass polish. It takes me 10min a light.

I think 96 was when it went to OBDII, I could be wrong tho. And it does have 2 02 sensors, one on each cat. I've never had to replace one, but I have removed the exhaust system before and know it can be a beotch. A good place to get accurate info is at http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/

Glad you had a uneventful trip, dont go and melt on us out there....alright?

Your just going to have to bite the bullet and do the 5 lug swap. That opens a big window for wheels/tires and suspension options.

New Yokohama skins for the RX. And a pair of XT6 seats also. Also had to replace the front crank seal on my Brat, it was puking oil badly. Fastest seal change I've ever done - 20min. Gotta luv the EA81

I think thats the same rear end that Qman had in his monster Brat, which also had a ARB airlocker installed.

Its not overheating, its just the timing isnt advancing to compensate for the extra load. It probably wouldnt hurt to drive it 60mi, just put some super in the tank. You can also retard the timing some temporarily.

I might have missed it, but I dont think theres any mention of a divorced t-case. Which he really really needs to do if he's going to all the trouble of a solid rear. Bill, your money would be better spent with a divorced t-case. You have the lift to do it and you know how well my hatch crawls. Plus its cheaper to upgrade the t-case than the tranny.