Jerry DeMoss

The fenders on that 78 had some bad pitting on the tops of the front fenders.I will keep my eyes peeled for ya.

I just went there and the car is in good shape.What parts do you need?

I am going out there today.I will have to check it out.I always liked those cars.

I work only a few blocks down the street from S-wings.I have popped in there a few times and they are always super helpful and nice.Always eager to show me what they are working on at the moment.

Check your coil.Also take your cap off and inspect cap and rotor.

I love that.I watch Chapelle show also."Bytch's I'm rick james now go pleasure charlie murphy."

Heres some stuff you may need: 1:BFH 2:some type of penetrating oil spray 3:Gloves 4:Big breaker bar or air gun Start by spraying the mating surface between the balljoint and the control arm as well as the nut that screws onto the ball joint with the penetrating oil.Let it set in for a few minutes.(really makes things easier)Good luck!

Welcome!I am sure you will find the answers to whatever you need.

Looks really nice.I would be very interested if you decide to sell it.

That thing is hilarious!I could only imagine leaving 2 black marks with it.

When it does this jump in rpm at start up does it increase more with cooler weather? I was wondering if it does this on an 80 degree day or on a colder day around 30 degrees?Good luck.

Thats too bad that you had trouble with that.What brand axles did you put in?Were they OE or from somewhere else?You may want to give CCR(colorado component rebuilders)a call. I am sure they could either get you some axles or point you in the right direction.Their # 303-293-9230

I am interested.I have an '02 Jetta and VW puts beeswax in the doors for sound deadening.Is it similar to that?

On vehicles I own or have owned subaru or not I use Mobil 1 synthetic.My hatch I had leaked some oil so I used the 15w50 weight oil and it seemed to help.I guess it is kinda expensive though.

I agree you shouldn't need to do anything like sleeve the engine.Just give the cylinders a light hone and put some new rings in there.Should be set after that.

Very cool to hear.I would love to see it.I really like older turbo subarus.Any chance you might use a rear mustache bar for a front bumper?Just kidding.What lift parts are you waiting on?

would be very nice for those building rally cars where you don't want your car to be too high.Too bad I don't have access to a metal brake right now or I could build one.

Are you asking with the stock 13" wheels or pugs?With stocker steels I would say 185/70/13.

Very nice looking brat.I like the wheels too.Are you starting any mods to it yet? Disc brake upgrade or suspension?The metal on those brats are friggin' beefy.Very strong.

Also do you have anything larger than the 32/36?

How much for an entire rebuild/OH kit for the 32/36 dgev?Also what does your rebuild kits include?Do you sell jets for them?

That would be cool but very scary going up sharp embankments.Looks like it would pop over on its backside really easy. The only thing I think its missing is big side pipe exhaust coming up behind the doors and a mustache bar front bumper.

I really don't think the cam will be that big of an issue.The other good thing is that your brat is an '84....The turbo's came in 83-84 so I am thinking with the years being about the same we should get pretty lucky. Here's my thinking:Turbo cam profile will be shorter duration for higher rpm power. N/a cam will be longer duration for more torque.By how much I am not sure.Please correct me if I am wrong.

If they do line up,bolt pattern wise we can always match port them.I may be going to the JY today or tomorrow to look for Jeep stuff for work so I will see what I can find for sube stuff.

Don't you have a spider intake?I think it would.Can you take some measurements and compare them to your heads on your car now?