1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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check for a frozen caliper -
most common coolant leaks for that gen of Soob is external weeping from headgasket. Ealier models did have some years that would leak internally - however - not out the exhaust. Coolant would get pushed into the overflow and bubbles of exhaust gasses move thru. Not that any car couldn't have any type of failure. If a cylinder is burning coolant, that sparkplug will likely look different than the others. Also, i think burning coolant is bad for the oxygen sensor and the cat conv. maybe a different mechanic? Post a new thread asking for a shop recomm. in your city. maybe someone will suggest a soob-experienced mechanic that can take a look.
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yikes, lifted huh = I could see where shopping by line length and the correct fittings would be the best way. Dunno if an email to Goodridge or ST might get you some spec sheets or even partnumbers... maybe someone else here has some experience. or subaruoutback.org . I'd Suggest motorsports forum at NASIOC, except - well, you know - lots of jerks/knuckleheads. Plus probably not many lifted vehicles over there.
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goodridge is a brand I've seen mentioned. I have SS braided lines on my 06 WRX but they are from Subaru - SPT. I don't know who actually made them. I've read that there's limited improvement if you don't replace them at all 4 corners. def. make sure they meet USDOT specs with an outer sheath and w'ever.. Is the fluid port in a different location on the new calipers? I could see that causing a concern about the hose length. that's about all I know other than no problems with mine since 06.
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look for a displaced IACV hose that goes under the intake. maybe squirt some brake cleaner around the intake manifold to find a vacuum leak? or get a vacuum gauge - it might help show a sticking/bent valve if that's a concern.
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meh - it's usually recommended. probably more important when topping-off than just 'checking'. I am usually suspicious of 'mechanic in a can' solutions, but CRC TransX or some other additive would definitely be worth trying.
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- check engine
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just to triple check - you are checking the trans fluid level while iding? on level ground and after moving the selector thru each gear for 5-10 seconds?
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posting mostly to subscribe/learn but, any sign of rodent damage? wondering about chewed wires.
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supposedly, the keyway isn't that important for the pulley. Folks sometimes use incorrectly low torque I think when re-assembling after TB job.
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don't rely just on my guess. The parts are known to delaminate, but the symptoms you have may be rare. i think the pulley just starts throwing belts off. Another 'out there' possibility is a loose crank bolt and worn keyway. hopefully, a close inspection will discover the problem. i suppose it could be felt - dunno. It really isn't a harmonic balancer. But, if the alternator is being intermittently driven, and the belts are intermittently slipping, I'd expect some weirdness 'could' be felt under acceleration sure.
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it's a 2-piece affair. inner connected to outer by a layer of rubber. Probably wobbles if it's bad.
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weird maybe the rubber is failing in the crank pulley?
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if you open the coolant system, confirm the t'stat is OEM-style only
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diagnostic use only - leave them unplugged.
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with used cars, the care they got in the past and their present condition are way more important than the model's reliability. That said, the H6s have a a few easily remedied niggling problems but are considered very desirable. Consider paying a good mechanic for a prepurchase inspection.
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^^^ rear diff protector too.
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some autoX guys and other 'racers' will corner balance their cars so, that tells me, cars are not corner balanced from the factory anyway. The spring under the heavy corner might be a little more worn out. throw in worn bushings and shocks - well, you'd go crazy worrying about everything that MIGHT be wrong.
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changing the tire diameter away from stock will affect the odometer (and speedometer)n by a few percent. The math for mileage will be affected. For instance, larger tires means you've gone farther, and gotten better mileage, than the odometer indicates. But, it may be possible to get good calculations using GPS readings. a bad Engine Temp Sensor may not create a failure code/check engine light but cause the car to run 'rich'. The ECU also stores the Fuel Trims. If those can be retrieved with a scan, it may offer some clues at to whether the ECU is reacting to a failing sensor by pumping in more fuel. Remove as much weight from the car as possible. Do not carry tools or any other gear you don't need.
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hmmm...that tranny have the same final drive as WRX rear diff? interesting. LOTS of good reading at NASIOC if you have the time. good place to shop for parts/take-offs too.
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maybe a leaky injector? next time it has sat long enough that you feel it will fail, pull the plugs to see if one is wet. Or, before a full start, cycle the key to ON, wait 6 seconds, then Off, then ON, wait 6 seconds - repeat. This should cause the pump to cycle on a few times, pressurizing the FI rails each time. THEN start the car. If normal, you're losing pressure in the rails. If the same or WORSE, probably an injector flooding a cylinder. HOLDING the pedal on the floor is the clear flood procedure. If that helps the car start, probably a leaky injector or other flooding problem (maybe Engine Temp Sensor)
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hmmm...normally, I'd suggest folks pretend to shop for another one to compare to their own new car. But, how could you do this at night? I suppose they could all be dimmer than you'd prefer. But, suppose yours really has a poor ground or bad control module for the the instrument lighting? maybe you could find some kind soul with another new Forester in your neighborhood that would let you take a quick look inside their car some night?
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in some soobs, the ABS is very sensitive to voltage. check your charging system and battery.
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a REAL GM guy would know about this boxer;
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yeah - might also depend on whether 1 or both fans are running, plus, keep in mind where the rad's intake and output hoses are. If it's working well in not too hot conditions, we might expect only part of the radiator's surface to be warm. The portion nearest to the inlet.