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Found 9 results

  1. Warm engine, 1,000 rpm, 50+ psi, 4,000rpm, about 30 psi oil pressure. This seems bass ackwards! Is it a problem?
  2. Hello, I have a 2017 Crosstrek with 2.0 liter boxer and CVT transmission. It now has 2000 miles, it is my first Subaru. My question: Does the boxer engine tolerate rapid acceleration trying to get on the highway the engine sometimes goes up to 4500RPM. I have to follow other people on the highway entrance, and need to get up to 70MPH quickly to get in a lane. I see the redline is around 6500, Thanks for the help. Bigjoedo
  3. Good Morning Everyone. My question is about a noise that I believe is coming from my engine... or at least some rotating component attached to the engine. The sound is a sort of clank, not a tick like lifters make, and it doesn't seem to be rapid enough to actually match the engine rpm..... This being said it DOES change with an increase in rpm. It reminds me of the sound older diesel truck engines make at low rpm or when they are cold. The clanking...... The biggest problem I have in diagnosing the sound is that it only happens under load, and is the worst at low rpm. For example, when I drive home there is a water/runoff dip in the road right before a hill. So I slow down, go over the dip and accelerate up the hill; at this point in 2nd gear I'm around 1500-2000 rpm.This is when the noise is the most prominent, possibly because there is little wind noise at that slow a speed and the engine noise in limited at that low a rpm. The engine ALSO has a ticking noise that either fades or stops suddenly when the engine is warmed usually. I have (according to the oil pressure gauge) upwards of 65-psi at 3000+ rpm and 15-psi at idle which I believe is appropriate for this vehicle. This I'm figuring IS a stuck lifter that frees up when the engine warms but I thought it was worth mentioning. Any ideas? Thanks.
  4. My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?
  5. hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks!
  6. My car normally rumbles all the time, like a fast swaying feeling. It's not a noise, it's what I feel when I'm sitting inside. It is fine when I drive. It's usually fine when I stop. It normally idles at about 800 - 900 rpm's, sometimes 500 rpm's. Recently it's been doing it worse, but chooses when to. Today it was fine. It seems like letting it sit without driving makes it occur, say 1-2 days. It lasted for at least half of my drive if not more. I went to O'Reilley's and the guy there was stumped more than me. It almost felt like it was misfiring a few days ago, like one of the cylinders wasn't turning fully and that the ratio was off. It scared me when the rpm's went all the way down to the first white line, very low, and it was swaying a lot more than I'm used to. It got worse if I accelerated in neutral; it would come down and low-rev shake more. It made me feel like it had 6 months or so until that shaking turns into an engine that just stops running out of no where. Ideas: Throttle wire tension not to spec, Spark plugs, vacuum leak, EGR, timing. Note: MPG Perfect I checked the MPG twice in a row. It's still 27 mpg (Perfect, to spec). In fact it's 27.09 MPG going 80 MPH - 90 MPH, and 27.11 MPG going 75 MPH. I use 89 sometimes, but mostly 91. (92 requirement). I never use 87 and never will. Note: No Check Engine Light Any other 6 cylinder subaru owners with similar problems? 2002 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 VDC Sedan - Engine: EZ30D If you can give me some help in narrowing down the issue I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you!
  7. all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU!
  8. A few weeks ago my 1992 Loyale Automatic started idling funny. It would fluctuate constantly. My mechanic told me that I needed to replace the Idle speed control solenoid. So, my question is: Does there need to be any timing done before it will function correctly? I've put the part in, but now the RPMs jump up, and then drop to zero after a few seconds.
  9. Hello all! Just bought my first Subaru. It's a 1998 Legacy GT Sedan (5speed) with 170,000 miles. I'm having a really weird issue with it... The temperature seems to be inversely related to my RPMs. When they go up, my temperature goes down. After buying the car, I drove it around 120 miles home, and found that at highway speeds 70-80 MPH, at 3400 RPM, the temperature gauge was a little less than a quarter of the way up. When I "punched it" to get around traffic, I could watch my temperature gauge fall to the C almost as fast as the tach went up. Once I got back on country roads, cruising in 4th gear at 35-40 MPH, the temperature gauge sat nicely at halfway. Outside temperature was was 9º F. Adjusting the heater didn't really seem to help (obviously wasn't blowing hot air when temperature gauge was down). I am really puzzled by this. Although mechanically inclined, I am by no means a "gear head". I'm thinking it's either an issue of too much coolant, something with the radiator, or a thermostat issue. Any suggestions on where to start? I know it's a little cold outside, but not cold enough for the car not to run where it should. Also, should I be worried about damaging the engine by it running cold? It was only at the bottom (cold) for maybe 5-8 minutes before at least returning to a quarter temperature. Thank you for any help!
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