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Easily tuned out with a Tactrix cable. But illegal. GD

Oh man, using a different 4 lug pattern besides 4 x 140 is Subaru blasphemy! So naturally I never tried them. Personally, I would find chevy six lug wheels and drill them to fit, they look good. I have tried those, they were 15" on my 86gl with 2" lift...she rides trucky! I sold em cause the 13s are better imo. Alternatively, you can still the hubs to accept a toyota six lug pattern, there is a write up on this forum about that. But to answer your question, those adapters are a cheap, dirty way to go if you have a set of 4x100 wheels that you like already, but account for the change in wheel placement on the car, (offset?) that those will cause, and it will stress your suspension that much more, so those adapters should not be part of a beast off road build, but if it's something just for shows or your racing slicks, get back to us on your experience! The adapters cost $160...you can five lug swap with junkyard pieces for that! If you are considering going this route just to expand your wheel choices, i would go five lug swap. If you happen to have a 4x140 setup with rear disk brakes, don't change that, that's the old school cool right there!

Trim the quad-lamp grill. The honeycomb grills are almost a perfect fit once trimmed, since they have a shape similar to the lamp door already in their design.

I have searched and searched and there is no one I have found who will touch them. When, if ever, I get my EJ conversion done, I am going to look into repairing them. Mine still work and I have an extra set, but it never hurts to have a plan in place.

I don't think I've seen AWD problems cause a vibration. Usually AWD failure, or binding. When I read that post, it sounds to me like it was driven with mismatched tires for a fairly short time. And if they were the same size, just a different brand, I would say it's probably fine. I would rotate the tires front-to-back, and see if the vibration changes (going from feeling it in your butt to your hands/steering wheel, or vice versa). Vibration is most commonly just tires out of balance. Otherwise it would be helpful to know when the vibration occurs (accelerating, braking, certain speed, does it change with engine speed or vehicle speed, etc.) as there are a host of other things that can cause a vibration.

A back up plan would be a second harness Don’t take what GD says to heart. He plays with the new stuff and seems to have little time for others starting to play with the older stuff... and seriously GD? More fun LS swapping an f150?? Where’s the Subi in that equation??! It’s not even part of the initial question!!!! Argh!! Do your research, learn along the way and take your time with the wiring cut down job. If you get a donor vehicle, pull the wiring, do the cut down then test run the wiring on the engine while it’s still in the vehicle. Once that checks out without any check engine lights etc, then proceed with the engine removal and the rest of the conversion. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Giles! Long time no hear (I’m not on bookface)! I hope you find your answer, I’d want to do the same too Cheers Bennie

Just be aware that you *might* need to also replace/modify the front panel that the headlights mount to. Modifying the original grille with the quad lights would be way easier. Someone will know more about this mod... Cheers Benie

Thanks, Heartless, that's good info to have whether it's perfect or not. I also ordered a Haynes manual to not fly blind so much... UPDATE: Have sorted the wiring and now have CEL lamp wired into dash, and have read codes (throwing 24 & 42) The Air Control Valve and TPS are the culprits. Will remove and clean the almost new ACV in hope that that clears things up. Also noticed that the little hose that connects the ACU to the Throttle body is kinked. It's like 2" of hose between hard fittings that force it into an "L" shape. Will use a longer hose and put a loop into it to prevent kinking on re-install. Suspect that swapping the idle switch has its adjustment goofed up now. Will attempt to properly adjust with feeler gauge before buying a new one : Spec I found here: 1&2 terminals- continuity at fully closed throttle, continuity at 0.7mm open throttle, and open circuit at 0.9mm open throttle as measured at throttle stop. For FergLoyal: the Neutral & inhibitor switches (code 51), parking switch (code 52), and VSS (code 33) are all waived codes under this install per CA. law I'm going to hook up VSS with aftermarket kit and see if it helps operation at all. It should, otherwise why would Subaru have used it? (Vanagons don't have a VSS input source as-built).

I always add a zinc additive with my fresh oil in my '85 Brat. I believe the EA-81 engine needs that. Todays oil doesn't have a zinc component like oil sold in the 80's

use a tactrix cable and romraider to tune out the rear O2 sensor. O2 sensor eliminators are early 2000's band aids. Tuning is the better option. 2002 WRX needs tuning anyway

Check the self-serve yards around Denver. I just put a 99 hatch onto my 2000 OBS. I noticed some hinge differences on the later hatches but I bet if you used your hinge they would bolt up. www.car-part.com is also a good place to check. After 4 yards, I found a hatch that was in very good condition and even the same color. <$100 out the door.

Short answer... No. Even moreso if you know nothing of spinning spanners or reading/following wiring diagrams. Either the EJ NAs or the turbo engines will require a wiring loom cut down and an adaptor plate. Go the turbo route and you’ll have to notch the engine crossmember (or find an EA turbo crossmember) and think about gearbox upgrade thoughts too. Once you’ve done one it’s pretty easy Cheers Bennie

LED light bars ARE NEVER legal on a public road. Whether you turn them off like high beams or not. They are for side x sides that only ever see trails. 20 years ago I remember people getting pulled over all the time just for not having their KC lights covered. It baffles me why now the police don't seem to care about these TOTALLY NOT DOT approved light bars that run the entire width of the damn trucks roofline. They are a major hazard. Hate them. Hate LED headlights too. Blinds the oncomong traffic, and doesn't project "deep" into the night very well. Sure things up close are brighter, but your far depth vision actually suffers for this. Now LED interior lights,....they are great......never have to come out to a dead battery just cause the trunk didn't get closed all the way!

Changed the knock sensor already too... But good news. It's running. well after all the gears were changed, injectors, couple broken wires, broken connecting clips, new fuel, new sensors, correct key, and new plugs, re-fitted radiator and as much of the parts that came with the car I started looking at vacuum hoses and water hoses. It turned out that the previous owner had put a water hose into a vacuum hose tail on the inlet manifold. And of course flooded the fuel/air mix with water. Silly mistake, but easily done. Sorted that out, and bango...started up straight away, ran like a dream. Thanks for help, and good luck luck with your projects. Cheers for now

you can find a video of someone splitting the case on an STi motor and rebuilding it I think. when a soob engine really dies, most folks get a used engine; junkyard or JDM .

I have had to replace a few first gen fuse panels for customers, and wanted to let everyone know about this panel I found that is a perfect fit - the bolt holes line up with the factory glass fuse panel. You do need a weather-pack crimper for this panel. It accepts micro fuses. It is also fully water tight so no worries about windshield leaks destroying the panel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HWB60-ALNG-Waterproof-Fuse-Relay-Panel-Kit-with-Terminals-12V-Universal/142641687058 Anyone local to my shop - I am offering this upgrade for $300 parts and labor. GD

Fellow drivers aren't the only thing in the roadways at twilight dawn or dusk nor late at night. I have had a couple near misses with bighorn sheep, elk & deer up in Troy MT area that made up my mind to add a light bar. Needed it driving thru ID along hwy 28 from Salmon ID to I-15. Pronghorn like to cross in herds there. BTW, LED light bar on my roof is curved to illuminate road sides. Road sides where the unexpected animals are. One elk cow is enough to cream a little Subie let alone a full size truck. 3 of 'em last time that happened. Added air horns too. Need those more often to get cell phone obsessed idiots to pull their heads out of their a$$es. Converted my 87 GL to 4 headlights some time ago. At first outers were 8000K HIDs but that didn't last long in So Cal with CHPs. Changed to LED outers but these are a single horizontal row of LEDs top with 2 LEDS more lit in center vertical on low beam. Made sure to aim them lower. Inner pair are halogen tied together with my halogen fog lights just below bumper, on a separate dash switch, an OEM foglight switch. I can drive at night with just halogens this way.