Leaderboard

Oil and Oil Filters Since New, my beloved subaru "BumbleBeast" has been using 20W~50 motor oil on its EA82 engine, (that SAE grade is for our warm caribbean climate) but in mineral form; mainly from Chevron and Motul; and I changed its oil and Filter at the proper interval, around 3,000 miles. When it became impossible to find an original Subaru oil filter on local stores anymore... ...I used the Recommended oil filter in Purolator brand, for the EA82 engine, which is the Purolator L-24457 Sometimes it wasn't easy to obtain it locally, so I used the Equivalent with slightly larger body, Purolator L-20064 However, larger body means less oil pressure on the system, so with time, I migrated to the Purolator L-10028 When newer oil technology came, with the development of Synthetic motor oils, I chose to use Valvoline's "MaxLife" motor oil, which is formulated to be used in Higher mileage vehicles; I adopted it since year 2012 (despite that I've read about it long years ago on magazines, it took some time to reach my Country and more time to lower its price on the local market) firstly I tried "MaxLife" in ATF form on my Wife's car with excellent results, then in Power Steering fluids on her car and mine; finally I switched to this "MaxLife" in Motor Oil also... ...circa 2014, which was a hard year (for me), with big decisions to take... one of them was to use this oil on extended periods of time, which I wasn't accustomed and I was afraid to try, but I gave it a go, and seems like the hardest part was to obtain a long life, synthetic oil filter to go with this oil. It doesn't make any sense to pour a long life motor oil, with a standard cardboard filter, isn't it? So, after searching, studying and analyzing my options; I found a small, synthetic oil filter with long lifespan, designed to be used extended times, and it had very Good opinions and reputation online, in web sites and forums dedicated to motor oils and filters; but this filter is much smaller than the oil filter recommended for the Subaru EA82 engine; which according to modern lubrication standards, is Better, as a smaller bodied filter aids to keep a higher oil pressure in the system, which is ideal for this engine and its exigent hydraulic lifters... you know. Here is the Oil Filter I chose, compared side to side with the older one which I used for long years: The Napa Platinum 41394 is made by Wix and is pretty small, but satisfies the requirements of the EA82 engine. Here are the Specs: here, you can see how this small oil filter, fits on the EA82's oil pump Base: And, believe it or not; I've been changing the Motor Oil on my Subie's EA82 on a Yearly basis, due to two reasons, money is tight and I am not using it so hard as it was used before 2014, since my small family and I, moved from the big city, to a small mountain high town, in the rural Honduras. I've been changing this synthetic "MaxLife" 20W~50 motor oil along the Napa 41394 synthetic oil filter, every December, since 2014, and the Subie runs flawlessly, no problems so far, despite it surpasses 400,000 miles; also the old used oil still comes out pretty good. Kind Regards. ________________________________________________ Extra info: if you can not see the Photos I shared from Photobucket, you can add to your web browser, an extension named "Photobucket embed fix" wich will let you see the photos, flawlessly. Greetings.

a rear quarter panel hit easily totals subaru's, even ones a decade or more younger than this one. they're welded in place and take significant body work to cut, align, weld, paint compared to bolt on body parts. $500 part, $500 welding/prepping, $500 painting. $1,500 puts it in total range for a car valued at $2,000 which is probably more than this car would be worth. And that's assuming no additional work, lights, pin stripes, available parts for repair....etc. it's probably ambiguous but maybe - If the rear quarter dent has exposed metal that doesn't look very rusty (mostly surface rust) then you could potentially guess that it was a "recent" hit and not driven around or sitting around exposed for years on end like that. I have two wrecked Subarus I just bought within the last few months and some exposed/damage metal is starting to rust but it's obviously surface rust and not cratered rust from sitting for years.

Coil overs are the "easy" but expensive solution as they're easy to dial in the ride height and make the car level. The more economical route is: Rear: Buy a set of used EA82 rear strut assemblies and swap in new KYB struts. All XT's and EA82 subarus have the same rear strut form factor so they're entirely interchangeable and swappable between coil over and air suspension. remove air strut, bolt on standard EA82 strut/spring assembly. The 2WD struts are longer than 4WD on OEM struts, but i'm not sure aftermarket KYB retains that difference. Reuse the stock springs or get something you want. They're a very standard coil spring size (2.5" i think) so there's tons of aftermarket springs to dial in whatever spring rate and ride height you want. I think I have 10" 200 pound rear springs and they're considerably towards the high end of ground clearance. I think @Numbchux has 12" and 250 pounds. I bought my springs from his suggested source here: https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/springs You may want to convert everything first and then buy your rear springs as needed to level the vehicle out. Front: Convert to 5 lug and there's unlimited EJ options for struts: Impreza, legacy, outback, forester. Impreza/legacy if you want it lowered, outback if you want ground clearance.

The Miata ones will work great in the rear. Front or rear Miata ones will work, one is considerably shorter (I don't remember which, easy enough to find out, though), if you're going slammed, you'll want the shorter ones. EJ chassis fronts will only work if you've done a 5-lug swap and have EJ front knuckles. I'm not up on the 4-lug options, and I ditched that hot garbage early in my build.

Back to what he said in his first post - If it's not wrecked, not rusted to pieces, and the engine seemed good enough for someone to take it, and add to that the fluid looked like garbage....I wouldn't want that transmission. But if it's your only option to replace an already bad transmission and you've got all the time in the world, then I guess you go for it.

those stains are head gasket residue the head probably isent flat or it would be more even check out this thread on diy head resurfacing cant hurt anything to give it a try ive had realy good luck doing this my self and not much different than how we did it in the shop in the olden days

Yep. They said it's because they couldn't get enough usable cores to supply the program. But yet they are still selling the back inventory of remans - now with no core charge because they no longer want the cores. The silly thing is they are ALSO revamping the pricing on new axles. We just ordered an axle for like a 2009 and they had some reman axles available for $199 with no core, or a new NTN axle was $239 as they have lowered the pricing to make remans and alternative aftermarket crap less desirable vs. new OEM. I don't expect the STI axle pricing to change though. Likely going to be $499 still on those. GD

Cleaner the better. It's a bunch of work to change the trans. I'd rather replace 2 engines than an Auto trans. Heavy as can be. That does not mean with a good fluid flush once it's running it may be fine. Once you confirm it's working, drain the fluid. Fill, pull the upper radiator ATF line and run another hose into a gallon jug. Start the engine, watch all the old dark nasty fluid be pumped out. 3/4 full, shut off the engine, fill the trans with new fluid and repeat. It usually takes about 3 gallons to get all the old nasty fluid out. Hook up the radiator ATF line. Service to the proper level, take it for a long drive and recheck the fluid level when it's hot. Service as required. You are Done!

Another option is to get the current trans useable for the time being is to disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, this puts it in purely mechanical mode. Which is 3rd gear and "locked" 4WD.. I drove a rusted 80's 4EAT with trans issues like that for a year that wasn't worth fixing. I wired in a switch to simply power the Duty C solenoid so I had either "locked" 4WD or FWD. I put a lot of miles on it, did a few couple hour interstate trips at 4,000 RPM and it never had issues in a year and thousands of miles. It's slow starting out in 3rd gear but perfectly usable. I wouldn't want to need to drive it in dense, high traffic, congested areas and merge with traffic every day.

There have been cases with a bad seal and the diff oil leaked into the tranny. There are some synthetic tranny fluids that I think have a terrible odor.

does it smell like diff fluid? maybe someone made a mistake and put diff oil in the trans?

After wanting one for 40 years.... I finally got one... VANDAL

Me and the Vivio passing through Gibraltar last year.

While you’ve got the trans out, shove a new rear main seal on the back of the engine And replace the oil/air separator plate if it’s plastic. Cheers Bennie

Hi, '92-'94 Legacy were 3.90 FD ratio. That's the most important part. However, if you replace the rear diff you can use any '90-'91 '95-'98 2.2 or 2.5 Legacy , Impreza, or Forester Auto transmission. .. >>Caveats: you'll need to change the pinion flange on the diff to match yours....different bolt spacing. >>>Flex plate needs to match up, too. The 'seating' of the Torque Converter is also very important - search on here, and there are are a couple of seals on input/output (?) shafts to replace. Also, if buying one from a used parts yard, it may have been sitting on the shelf - for a long time and the internal seals may leak once installed- and the shop may not warranty that.

Me and my bro in the middle of wiring up the ej22 in my 86gl. I'm the one in the middle. And my faithful dog, Vendy

1. that ATF looks horrendous. maybe it's a deceptive photo but your description doesn't seem to suggest that. 2. you've driven the first transmission 1 year now, never came back with questions/comments, and didn't mention having any issues - how is it driving? why replace it?

what he said ^^^^^ you paid for the warranty - now get your moneys worth. I honestly can not believe that anyone told you that amount of metal shavings on the magnet was "ok" - there is no way in hell I would have even put that tranny in a car. that is just nasty looking.