DaveT

I think I remember the name bosal for aftermarket stockish better than cheapest exhaust patts. They didn't last as long as factory, but were a half or a third of the cost.

It doesn't effect power noticeably. But when the cat fails, it's an 80.00 easy to find part, not a rare couple hundred. Also puts an end to having to replace rusted off pipes with good cats...

Don't know about that specific car, but the AC condenser is typically the heat exchanger placed in front of the radiator.

Here is my exhaust: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/exhaust.html

The full set of 4 books was over $150.00 when I bought them from a Subaru dealer in 1988. I've seen them on ebay sometimes. I'd be happy.

Remove it from the car. In the driveway, wash with bleach etc. Hose off. Let dry. Re install.

They were from about the same time period as the subarus. Most likely corollas. They were (probably still are) used in most cars from then on. I also used then from a random Honda. This reminds me, I'm going to have to find a new place to put my Web pages, since the is no longer is going to provide them.

There are a few threads about how to use Toyota solenoids. As far as I know, I'm the originator of the mod. I am still using the same Toyota solenoids I bought from a junkyard in 1989.

Check the radiator. Are the little thin fins still attached to the tubes that the coolant flows through?

Grease is not the problem. If the coolant system has a recovery tank, there should not be any air in the coolant system after a few drive cycles.

There may be pdfs posted somewhere on the forum. My FSMs are 88 and 90. There may be slight differences. Troubleshooting intermittent electric problems is a pain in the butt. I have seen wires in the engine harness fail by breaking internally - barely any visible external sign of failure. And the loom would have to be removed for that anyway. Factory Service Manual schematic and at least a volt meter. Then you can begin verifying 12V is getting to all the places it is needed. [coil, ECU, etc]

visual inspection is ok to a point. A voltmeter may tell more. Do you have a schematic from a FSM?

Cooling system problem has nothing to do with grease burning off of the cat.

Yep, that connector is for the AC clutch. It should stay disconnected until you replace the missing A/C line. Also missing, seems to be the rotation sensor for the A/C compressor. It is supposed to disengage the clutch if the compressor seizes.

a picture or 2 might help...

Hardware wise, it seems to be the only difference, having swapped a 49 state engine into my Cali car. Maps and all that, I don't know. I could probably pull the ROMs out of a couple and read them, but not having the source code would be beyond me to figure out just what is different. Could there be any tweaks in the maps worth tinkering with?

I found the same chart in my 90 FSM. Same pin has the wire for 49 / California. Sounds / looks like they are the same. Can't find it in my 86 manual, although the MPFI section shows a similar chart, with a different pin for the same function.

I have an 86 FSM and a 90 fsm. I can try looking at them later tonight, or over the weekend.

I won't snip the wire. I made tools to release the connector pins out of the housing. I made them from the stainless steel strips that are on wiper blades.

I had a wire break on on of mine, just broken inside the insulation. Posibly a random weak spot and maybe some vibration resonated it just right.

Fix the break, insulate with heat shrink. Splice the shield also.

This is interesting. I have a 93 California car. It has that sensor. I don't néed it as I am in CT. So if I have trouble with it, there are options.

I'd start by looking for the no spark part first. Fusible links, fuses. Voltmeter to verify power is getting where it is supposed to be, as I have seen fuses fail open with no visible sign. Once you know you have spark, you can spray a second or 2 of carb cleaner down the throttle body, and crank. If it runs for a burst, then dies, now to find the fuel problem. A couple things, maybe or maybe not related? From idle, I have occasionally popped the throttle open so quickly that the engine just stopped. I don't recall it being a problem to restart though. I have, over years, had a couple times, engine die, or not quite catch on start. Normal cranking will not do anything but run a brand new battery dead. I found holding the gas pedal down to the floor, and cranking - for what does seem quite long - does clear the problem, which I figure was flooding. It takes quite a bit, and coughs and sputters back to life when this happens. Once it begins, I let it run around 3000 RPM till it smooths out.

The timing mark on the flywheel for aligning the timing belts is the middle of the 3 lines. | | | NOT the 0 degrees mark for timing. One side will be up, one down, with each revolution of the crank. There is a write up somewhere on the forum. There is a sequence to follow to get them on correctly.

I haven't done that..... My fist thought is to loosen everything, and re torque. IF you stripped it, it won't get back to spec.