johnceggleston

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-96-97-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-DOHC-2-5L-EJ25-Timing-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-/360421290862?fits=Year%3A1997|Make%3ASubaru|Submodel%3AOutback&hash=item53eac8736e:g:lhkAAOxy9eVRJRRm&vxp=mtr

jread, you already have the old style tensioner, \which is considered better, why are you pricing the bracket for a conversion??? i guess i missed something. you also did not specify your year????? but if it is an ej25 and factory stock, it must be a 96 - 97, maybe 98. the swap to the new tensioner took place with the 98 model year. i guess there is a possibility that canada got ''changes'' on a slightly different schedule. but i doubt it unless the US law dictated the change. does any one know where canadian legacys are built???

remind be of your problem, and what you have tried up to now. 99 is a one one year speedo. and it has a known failure issue. usually corrected with an improved ground wire on the circuit board. i do not know about the rest of the instrument panel.

the swap you are considering is a huge amount of work, even if the parts are free. why not just swap in a dual range manual trans and call it a day. you will have a ''hiway'' range for fuel economy, and a ''low'' range for when you want ''power'' off road. just my opinion.

you don't ''gain'' anything, reliability or power, by doing it. but since you have the heads you will save the cost of rebuilding the old heads. the y-pipe will cost you some thing though. but it will work.

you might try re-seating it. the bottom edge, closest to the engine can be tricky. it may even have a ''slot and tab'' set up. but that mat have come later.

the power steering fluid leak is usually the o-ring between the reservoir and the pump. use a turkey baster to remove the fluid from the tank. then you will see the bolt in side the tank.

you do not seem to have the factory installed ''remote entry'' unit, so none of those instructions will work. i would call the remote start company and ask about testing or removing the unit altogether.

if it is like the 90s legos, and i assume it is, one pinch bolt ''rides'' in a cutout in the shaft. in other words, one end of the u-joint coupler MUST be correctly aligned with the shaft. the bolt not only pinches, but it rides on a notch on the shaft. REMOVE this bolt. i think it is the lower, steering rack, end. the other bolt, upper end, needs to be loosened. once done, you can slide the u-joint up onto the steering column shaft so the lower end comes free of the rack shaft. i could have the shaft the ends mixed up, but i do not think so. caution: it is easy to reassemble so that the steering wheel is not centered. careful.

how long is the dip stick? do not drive it until you answer. you probably drained the trans and filled the front diff. how long is the dip stick? it happens.

FYI: i have a rebuilt one in Va, 24014. i know it is a long way away, so probably not practical. i do not know the miles on it after it was rebuilt. but it has plate / tag indicating the date it was rebuilt. it has been sitting in a wrecked, T-boned, 98 outback for several years.

it is a high heat lube. purple, iirc.

engine Hp + final drive ratio + wheel size / tire size = power output / fuel economy. i know it is not that simple, but all 3 play a part. in the 00 - 04 years, legos, brighton, L and imprezas (low end) have smaller tires. they also have the 4.11 FD ratio. outbacks, foresters, GTs all have larger tires and the 4.44 ratio. (gt only slightly larger, but still larger.) the H6 does nor suffer from the same power output limitations as the outback & GT cars. it has tons of power. therefore, the final drive does not need to comply with the same power formula. ALL H6 auto trans in the 00 - 04 years have the 4.11 final drive ratio. it is also my understanding the the H6 auto trans has different gear ratios, 1- 4, than the lego 4eat. but i would have to research this to know for sure. hth.

the FWD fuse is interesting. but if you want real fun, search for AWD ''locked switch'' . it is the reverse of FWD. it locks the AWD in a 50 / 50 split, front to rear. not practical in most situations, but very desirable in some situations. but it is NOT what you want when driving on dry pavement . good luck.

what dash said. change the fluid. tip: reading trhe dip stick can be difficult. if you measure the fluid you remopve and add that much back with each frain and fill, you will not have to depend on the dip stick . also, be sure you KNOW the location of the AT dip stick and the front diff dip stick. good luck.

all 96 CARS ARE OBD2, SO YOURS SHOULD HAVE THE CONNECTOR. if like the legos, it should be under the dash above the gas pedal. a black, 6 pin connector with 3 or 4 pins in it.

fans blowing cold air, not hot means..... the cooling system is low on coolant. it may be bad head gaskets, but i would bet on a simple cooling leak. either one could cause a loss of coolant and overheating. 1st, refill the system correctly, remove the vent plug, fill slowly, at rad cap, install vent plug, idle until the temp is normal, top off rad and then cap radiator. and drive it. 2nd, when / if it over heats, open the overflow bottle for the rad, and look for ''bubbles'' in the coolant. this would be a ''bad head gasket'' indicator. 3rd, when you come home after work, park and let the engine idle for a while. and place a large clean piece of cardboard under the engine. look for stains and drips . given the age of the car / coolant hoses, my first guess would be a slow leak.

HOW MANY MILES ON THE CAR? the most common result of a duty c failure is torque bind, not no power to the rear. but no power could also happen, usually due to a ''stuck'' duty c valve. it is no longer metering the fluid pressure, it is stuck and there is no fluid pressure. in fact you could have 2 problems, no rear power and another electrical malfunction in the trans. but until you read the trouble codes you do not know what the problem is. there is a test to see if the transfer clutch is mechanically sound. there is a fuse you can insert to see if that will cure the AT Temp light. and as mentioned, if you trans fluid is not fresh, and pink and ''stink free'', it may all be caused by dirty fluid. so do some investigating and perhaps some service, 3 ATF drain and fills with driving in between, and let us know what you learn.

well, separating the hub from the housing kills the bearing. so unless you ''piece together'' a tone ring on your existing hub assembly, you are going to be spending money. if the ''piece together fix does not work, i would buy a used assembly and install it. run it until it fails, could be a long time. but save the old one and prep it for reinstall, when the new ''used'' unit starts to fail. for $35 you can have one mailed to your door. www.car-part.com probably cheaper than a ''new'' tone ring.

or, just replace the whole hub assembly. order it from www.car-part.com and have it shipped in from a NON-rust state. cheap and easy.

what year? hopefully not 04? it sounds like you are working in the right direction. good luck.

95 - 99 springs should fit, no problem. outback lego GT are all the same. but double check to make sure there is no rust around the top mounts.are you carrying a load, or lots of tools?

swapping the bulb is pretty easy. you might could use another bulb in the instrument panel. which bulb are you willing to give up, ABS, SRS? SRS pops up WAY WAY less often. the knock sensor should be a non-issue., once replaced. what is the definition of the p0136 code? o2 sensor?

the ej25 dohc intake will NOT bolt on to a phase 2 engine. it will not swap. try again.

the brakes in my 97 Gt wagoin are very different from the brakes in my (now sold) 95 L sedan. dramatically different. the 95 stopped quick and easy with less pressure. the 97 takes much more pressure and takes longer to stop. not very scientific , i know. i assume the wagon is heavier, but not 20% heavier, 10 to 15% at most would be my guess. how much of a difference can pads make?