john in KY

Just from memory I think there are 4 relays under the dash sort of above the steering column. Not easy to get to but there should be 4 in a row in a common holder. Also thinking they are round in shape.

Don't really understand what you are asking but I have an ER27 engine that was modified to be installed in an experimental aircraft. It has a GM distributor from a V6 that was modified to fit the ER27.

I doubt if it is a fuel pump problem but a used one from a wrecking yard shouldn't cost too much. Don't know why I am suggesting this but check the battery connections.

I am confused which front differential you now have but I would replace the rear differential to match whatever front differential you know have. Once the car was home, next stop the small claims court.

Another option and probably cheaper would be to replace the rear differential with a 3.90 ratio. I scrapped 2 just this summer so there must be tons of them out there. Once you have the car back, go to the Small Claims court and file a claim. You probably will end up spending a lot of money because of the "old guy's" mistake.

My guess is timing. Distributor timing off/firing order wrong/cams off.

The radio should work. The 12V constant only needed for the presets. For some reason I am thinking there is an inline fuse somewhere in the harness close to the radio.

I agree with the 1st responder. Since he has no basic tools, this suggests to me he has no experience working with wrenches/sockets/basic automotive tools. You could be amazed at how much damage a tool in an inexperience hand can cause. Car is probably near or at a timing belt change and brakes. When that belt breaks, probably a $2K repair. I also believe any tools you buy for him will never be used and cheap tools are a PITA to own.

As far as I know, when a LSD fails, the clutches wear out and that in no way will cause the rear end problem you are describing. The rear just becomes an open differential. May want to drain the rear and look for metal flakes.chunks. You may have damaged spider gears but that is fairly uncommon.

I think adding that additive to the transmission is a very bad idea.

Could be one of the heater hoses or that little line that snakes under the intake manifold but I would first check the heater hoses.

Send a PM to member nncoolg. He's local to you and knows a bunch about this engine.

The power steering fluid leak probably just need to tighten the line fitting. Minute and really not something to be stressed out over right now. The steering rack could be the source of the problem but I wonder. Few months ago returning from a trip my 95 started pulling to the left. Also a a slight steering wheel shake the got more noticeable the closer I got to home. The wheel shake turned out to be a broken belt in the left front tire. Went and replaced the rack and that turned out to be a bitch of a job. Fittings are almost impossible to get a wrench on and one of the bolts the hold to rack to the frame snapped off. Nothing I tried to remove the snapped bolt worked so finally drilled it out and used a timesert. Installation was no picnic either. Had a terrible time reconnecting all the line fittings. Your rack does look bad and should be replaced but don't expect it to be a few hour job.

Just a thought but if the oil pump is coming apart, that would produce the leak and the low pressure.

Maybe the problem is a clogged exhaust. I would think even if the turbo was not working, the engine should still be able to rev past 4K.

I think this will work. Pull the vacuum line at the wastegate controller. This should cause the turbo to produce maximum boost, something like 20lbs. If no change at the gauge then I think the problem is either the controller or the turbo.

I can provide a partial answer. Heater controls not working because of that white canister on the firewall just above the turbo. Either it is leaking or more likely, the vacuum hose is disconnected.

Sounds like a block heater.

Check the fuses and relays under the hood if you haven't already but my guess is there is a problem with the combination switch.

Use synthetic oil, let the engine idle for a minute or so after driving, and seriously consider a new radiator. Yours if original is on its last leg.

Every turbo EA82 I have owned (3) have had the 2 core radiator. I don't believe that radiator can be bought new anymore. Seems odd to me that it runs cool in town but only overheats on the highway.

Or just take the balancer with you to NAPA. NAPA sells bar stock in 10-12 inch lengths. Cut off what you need and save the rest for whatever.

Just based on what you described, my guess is the pump is now not producing enough pressure.

Hmm, 60,000 kilometers since I changed them. Belt should have lasted much longer. Most probable reason it failed so soon is the idle bearing is failing. If this was my car, and I once owned 2 turbo wagons, I would replace the oil pump gasket and the camshaft seals while it was apart. The camshaft seal that often causes the oil leak is not the one that is visible behind the cam sprocket. Need to remove the sprocket and then that housing retained by 3 bolts. there you will find an O-ring. Change it also.

Can't go wrong with an engine from CCR imo.