john in KY

Use a left-hand drill bit and if you screw up, either tap for a larger diameter bolt or use a helicoil. Any decent machine shop can repair this damage. If the engine uses the flapper AFM, 85 and 86.

I think there was only 2 types. One type was original equipment, came from the factory, and the other was installed at the dealer.

Could have a lot of corrosion inside the battery cables. Edit: Are you saying that after 3 days the battery is dead?

Well I sort of suggested it wasn't going to be pleasant. That small bolt had me saying words I didn't realize I even knew. I also need to replace that oil line. Ordered it when I did the coolant line but haven't gotten around to installing it. And I noticed that line under the intake manifold has a rusted area. Well do both this fall when it cools down.

Thermostat housing confirms the engine is in the 85 to 87 range.

This engine has the dual port heads. Engine offered from 85 to 1990. Exhaust gaskets the same for all years. Any model with the turbo option, no difference. Thinking I may even have a set in the garage.

Looks like the AFM is the "flapper" style. Was only used in the 85/86/87 models. Also can tell if it is from one of these years is to look at the thermostat housing. Fairly sure the distributor changed in 1988. Cylinder heads the weak link. 3 versions used over the years. Early version tended to crack.

Just a thought: I installed that part from underneath the car. May be easier from the topside.

Yes. Drop the exhaust and loosen both motor mounts. I only did the one on the driver's side and that damaged the other side when I raised the engine. New mount runs around $60.

Replaced that part a few months ago and in my opinion, impossible to do without raising the engine. Let us know how long it took to reinstall that small bolt rear of engine.

The only time I experienced collapsed radiator hoses it was because the radiator was clogged. New radiator, problem solved.

Problem could be the hill-holder if so equipped.

Verify the firing order: 1324. Do a compression test. Check valve clearance.

The "running lights" problem is probably that rocker switch behind the steering wheel. Somehow got turned on.

I have no idea other than the noise appears to be coming from that area and once the engine is pulled, a visible inspection should show the source. TC failure is very rare and that greasing the rear main "solution" seems pretty far fetched to me. I would suspect a cracked felex plate way before a failing TC. Just recently pulled and reinstalled an engine in my 08 and not that bad a task and I have you by 15 more years.

My advice is pull the engine and leave the transmission in place. Much easier this way.

Use a 3 to 4 foot cheater bar and may consider moving up to a 3/4 inch socket/breaker bar.

That switch is located just to the left of the shifter. Pull the center console to access. Had the same problem in my 95 2 summers ago. Even changed the starter as you did. Same results. Added the starter relay modification and problem solved.

The distributor has nothing to do with the cranking of the engine. Heck, engine will crank with the distributor pulled.

Replaced one last year in an 08 and from start to finish, about 10 days.

Wonder if a really strong magnet could move that pin?

Does this model have 2 fuel filters?

Once had an 85 XT turbo FWD that had the 3.54 differential.

Just from reading old posts about this my guess is you have to swap the camshaft sprocket and/or that crankshaft sprocket/sensor. More knowledgeable members will pinpoint the problem/solution.

Very little but that's just my opinion.