Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those "Standard" wheels in my Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for almost the whole afternoon... even we ate lunch Together. He said that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Subaru Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also some sort of museum and many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was ready to be sold since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of the first prototype of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted to have a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" propulsion for that Model, and the Developments were going on that Way, having the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer who demanded \ wanted / needed more power from their compact cars. They Already got the EA81 that was a 1.8L engine so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive, and built to stay that way' broke part of their enthusiasm as the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption numbers in EPA charts and somehow increasing import taxes... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo as they where already selling Turbo MPFi versions of the EA81 in Japan since late 1982. So, the Japaneses downgraded the Prototype EA91 engine by destroking it, and Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was limited to the implementation of Timing Belts ... ... and using the SOHC designation which was in fashion, along with the "Turbo" word, on the 80's. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but the one about the 2.0L EA engine in the Original Prototypes (Codenamed EA91) of the Third Gen Leone, was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and an awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the 4x140 Lug Pattern, redrilling the hubs to let fit "Standard" 4x114.3 wheels on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.

Holy Found! I've Saved Pics from the Link posted by Tailgatewagon: I Saw those in a Cherry Red GSR with Loud Exhaust, But... ...I Think they were Different, Maybe 'cos the Subie was Runnin' or Maybe due to the Centercaps. Kind Regards.

I've Just Tinted the Glasses on my Daily Warrior Subie ... ... with the Darkest Brown Film you could imagine.

Welcome! A Basic Tune-Up just involves what you Already Wrote: New SpakPlugs : NGK Brand works Best in Subarus and those are Cheap. BPR6ES11 are their Usual Number. Set up the Timing to the Required Degrees... That Basically only needs a Light Gun. New Oil + Oil Filter: Just in case the ones on the Engine are Old. A Carburetor CleanUp + New Air Filter Element: Again, just in Case the one it has is Worn. if you Suspect that the Carb is Dirty, sometimes This Cheap Procedure could Help you to Solve the Problem: In a Near Empty Fuel Tank, Pour a "Carburetor Cleaner" Bottle for Fuel and then Pour Three Gallons of Gasoline: This will make it to be very Concentrated and will Help to Solve Gum & Barnish inside the Carb; Also Grab a Can of "Carburetor & Choke Cleaner" Spray and Use it Carefully as Follows: When the Engine Reaches Normal operating Temps: Shut it Off and Remove the Air Filter Box's Cover, then Spray the Carb Cleaner to the Carb's Opening, but be Careful: That Fluid is Dangerous (Specially to the Eyes & Skin), so you must Read the Can's Safety instructions before Use it. Spray some Shots to the Carb with Engine off, you can Use the Tiny Hose to reach the Deep Openings / Areas... Let it Rest for a While... (at least Half Hour or More to let it Solve the Dirt) ...then the Car will be Rough to Start. Once the Engine started and is Running Normal Again, you must Hold the Accelerator Cable with one Hand to make it Rev at Around 3K RPM's and with the Other Hand, Shot some Short Carb Cleaner Spray Blasts to the Carb. Warning!: Be Sure that you Already Removed the Tiny Hose from the Spray Can and its Nose is Pointin' Right to the Carb's Opening; also that there are no Loose objets hangin' Around the engine when you Doing this, including your Clothes. With Every Spray's Shot, the RPM's will Drop but you must Hold the Accelerator cable in order to avoid the Engine to Shut Off... Let it Back to Normal and then Repeat that some times Untill you Feel that the Engine goes Back to Idle Smooth. That's it! Replace the Air Filter Box's Cover and The Carb must be Half Cleaned: The Deep inside Carb Cleaning will be Done by the Fuel / Carb Cleaner Mixture on the Gas Tank, so Don't Refill the Tank untill it Goes Near Empty, to allow the Concentrated Mixture to Clean up your Engine's Carb & Fuel System... I Kindly Suggest you to Drive it in Low Gears at Higher RPM's than Usual for a While, to Let the Carb Cleaner / Fuel Mixture at the Fuel Tank Clean it Right. But Other items could need Replacement, Such as SparkPlug Wires, Disty Cap & Rotor; Etc... I Kindly Suggest you to Check Everything. Hope This can Help. Kind Regards.

I Just Saw an Old Subie Passing by with what Seemed to be That Kind of Rims, So I Searched here for More info and Found This Thread... Does Anybody have Pics & more info about Those Rims? Kind Regards.

You Mean H6, isn't it?

For Easiness... (and Cheapness) ...I'm Thinking in maybe use only Single 1" Blocks to lift the Front, but I'm not Sure how much Axle Stress could that Bring to the C.V. Joints and how much the Alingment could be Affected... Any Ideas?

Any Posted Pics? ... I'll Love to see That! Kind Regards.

That's a Terrific Idea! ... Could you Post Pics? Kind Regards.

...Specially if the Costumer knows Nothing about Basic Mechanics nor Maintenance.

I'm Glad to Know that your Subie is Runnin' like a Champ Now! ... ...

The Big Subaru Van came from the Subaru-GM Era, so No... No Flat engine There, but also the Beautiful Stanley Does not have a Flat engine 'cos only has Two Cyl... Unless you want to see that Two Cyl. engine as a "Half Flat 4 Engine" Kind Regards.

Welcome! ... I Like your Lifted Justy, its Nice that you found this 'ol Thread and Resurected it with Fresh info. I'll Like to See Pics of the Undercarriage setup and the Engine. Good Job! Kind Regards.

Pics Please!

And the Legacy Comes with Dual Range Trans... Also Early Legacies came with Carburetor + Disty Setup Stock: Also they have Hill Holder Check Valves too...

in my Country we Have EJ15 (1.5L) and EJ16 (1.6L) Engines in the Basic imprezas. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine )

Specially This:

Could be Possible it is Dieseling Somehow? ... Does it Has a Non-Stock Carb, like a Weber in Example? 'cos those Doesn't have the Cut-Off Electrical Valve.

So, I Obtained a Set of O-Ring Seals for the Front Calipers...

I Purchased a Brand New Set of Rear Disc Brake Pads for my "BumbleBeast" The Ones it have are Still Beefy but the Dealer Gave me a great Discount.

Despite that the Hill Holder and the Check Valve works on my Subie, I didn't purchased those, because the Proportioning valve is alright, and there's an ancient proverb that says: "Do Not Fix what is not Damaged" Now I believe that I will Erase the Hill Holder, because the one on my "BumbleBeast" is leaky. I disconnected the Cable coming from the Clutch fork to prevent it from leaking and my Lazy solution has worked pretty well, no more Leaks... and I really do Not need the Hill Holder to Drive. Kind Regards.

I Took a Look to his Parts Catalog and is very Very Beefy, it Lists all the Parts for the Main Markets where Subaru Sold Different Versions, of the EA82, in Example this Brakes' Page list options, available for Sweden only:

The Hill Holder's Check Valve for the EA82... ...has This Part Number: 25746GA161 Rewritten by Hand to make it Clear!

This is the Proportioning Valve from my EA82 "BumbleBeast" Subaru: This is a Photo of the actual part on my Subie, it is Hiding in the Rear undercarriage.

This Proportioning Valve, Belongs to a Legacy This is its part Number: I shared the photo here for reference to the Shape only, Because it looks equal to the one on the EA82.