86BRATMAN

that baja is freakin sweet man

I never removed the hubs when I did axles on my old subarus but I can see how that would make the job easier.

you can use an 85-86 ea82t distributor with a little modification, has to be those years though.

really like what you've done with your brat, except for the fenders being cut, but hey its your ride so make it what you want. very nice!

IMHO rotaries are garbage. And yes a supra rear diff would hold up. Even us mk2 guys can run pretty big power through the mk2's 7.5" rear end. The 8" from the mk3 would do the job a little better, but its all in what you can find.

So what you're saying here is there is now only one.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136729-boss-ea81-3-lift-kits-now-available-to-order/?do=findComment&comment=1149876 There is the lift kit, for the rest read up in the off road section to get an idea of sizing and see what is still availible in the size you want.

Thats the way to think man, there are just too few of these cars left around to keep a disposable attitude towards them. Escpecially with all the time and work you've put into it already it would be sad to think that another salvagible classic went to its death.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93247-build-thread-off-wrx-pickup/ This thread may be benificial in your project.

get some tires and an alignment, I bet that will take car of a lot of the problem. my 97 legacy is kind of rough in relation to feeling the road, and has worn out goodyears currently but she doesn't get yanked about like that

dry ice?

phase 2 ej22 would be simpler, but you're more limited to model choice, 99 legacy and 99-01 impreza (non 2.5rs) were the only ones that came with them.

99% sure the same intake will fit all 3 engines

Outback rear struts will provide a little more tire clearance than 98-03 forester. I've compared them side by side. Forester springs give more lift than outback springs simply because the outback shares the same springs as standard legacy.

lol, stupid auto correct, I'll get up with my friend this week, I've gotta pick up an ej25 from him so I can start a rebuild for his gt so I'll get my draft back and post a pic.

There is a very good thread on doing the heads yourself floating around here too if you want to tackle that part yourself.

whenever I get another ea81 car, I'm not going to lift it either, I'm going to go with a basic flat bar adapter between the body and crossmember. My fabricator friend has my drawing for the piece I'll need to do it, basically a flat piece of metal cut for lag bolts going into the frame the opposite direction of the stock bolts and attached that way, and bolted simulator the crossmember, won't add more than a quarter inch thickness.

Two ways to do it. If you are planning on even a small lift, you can use the lift block as a "adapter" block. Basically you use a wider block than traditional lifts. For example, a 4 inch lift would usually use a 2x4 block between crossmember and body....but for the adapter, you would use a 3x4 inch block. this gives you the width you need. The top holes are spaced to mount to the EA81 body, and are near what will be the inner edge of the block. The bottom holes, spaced to match the EA82 crossmember, will be nearer the opposite, outside edge of the block. They total offset of each block is about 5/8th inch (EA82 member is ~ 1-1/4" wider overall) You will use the original bolts to hold the block to the body, and some short bolts to hold the crossmember to the block. HighGuys, my lift company can make you these blocks, individually, or with a complete kit. 2" to 6" If you don't want any lift, you can modify the area to the inside of the mounting holes of the crossmember. Rigth where the EA81 holes would need to be, the EA82 crossmember begins to bend over, and down into the craddle. What needs to be done, is to make cuts that will allow you to bend up "tabs" for the EA81 body mounting. after folding up the tabs, a brace piece should be welded under the tabs to reinforce. I've done both, and they both work. But I recommend the adapter block method......especially if you live in an area with intense vehichle inspections. The "tab" method is totally safe, but at first glance to an unfamiliar eye, could seem like something weird. Use the EA82 crossmember, Control arms, and Radius rods(they mount right to the EA81 mounts) Knuckles, hubs, and Axles. Whatever method you use, you will need a steering coupler as well. No lift, or small lift you can get one from another model (EA82, Legacy, Outback) Big lift you will need to make or have made.

not sure how acquainted you are with the ea81 cars but all the front clips are the same. And if you're wanting to do the the ea82 lcas I'd try to find a complete engine crossmember and all to swap under it. then you can take advantage of the wider stance and use ea82 axles. I had a short pm convo with gloyale about doing it I'll find hat and paste it over.

awesome, hope you enjoy the brat, I'll have another one myself, hopefully before I hit 35 lol

they rarely share our enthusiasm for the cars we love, hope it works out for you!

possible they were 77s overseas, as they don't follow the same rules for model years as the states in the older days, my dad bought the 3rd Brat sold in southwest VA in late 77 and it was titled a 78. I work at a Ford dealership and we started getting '13s back in August. Been this way for years, like the legacy overseas was started as an 89 model.

actually it would be the most rare if it was a 77, the brat model wasn't put into production until 78.

definitely deserves to be saved, so many of these deals I see go by on the wrong coast for me to be able to take advantage of them. Maybe next year when I get my two weeks of vacation time I can do something about one of them.

send me the pic and I'll post it up, iownasubaru at yahoo dot com