carfreak85
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Everything posted by carfreak85
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Honsetly, Stage 2 is how these cars should have come from the factory. After the tune you can expect a solid 40+ hp over stock, more if you're set up for E85. As for the tune, you can download a tune from several vendors and, by using the appropriate regional sub-forum on NASIOC, you can probably find someone near you who can load the new file for free. Just do your due diligence when it comes to modifications to these cars. Do plenty of research, read the FAQs and be conservative.
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You NEED to be looking for parts on NASIOC, people sell their OEM take-off parts all the time. Also, wrapping the headers can be hit or miss on our cars. Because the headers are so close to the ground, there is the possibility that they become soaked with water and start to corrode the header, even if it's SS. Additionally, since the headers are on the bottom of the engine, if you ever have an oil leak, there is a very good chance it will absorb some oil into the wrap, causing a fire hazard. You will get more HP from a good, conservative tune than you will from headers. With a turbo, you're looking for as large a pressure differential across the turbine wheel as possible. You already have that with a turbo-back exhaust (TBE). At this level of modification a tune is NOT OPTIONAL, you NEED a tune on any Subaru with a TBE.
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Better bang for the buck vs. headers. The stock cast iron parts are really good for keeping heat inside the gas column, even better when they have all their heatshields. What are your power goals what do you plan to do with the car? If you already have a downpipe that means you are at "Stage 2," which means you NEED an engine software retune, or risk damage to your enigne. You'd probably find more help/resources on the ScoobyTrucks or NASIOC forums, most of the action on this board surrounds the older models.
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Impreza headers will fit a Forester, will fit a Legacy, will fit an Outback, will fit a Baja. You'd be better served buying an up/downpipe and exhaust if you want more power. I would get the factory heat shields and put them back on.
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Heads, engines, wiring, sensors, etc. Anything related at all to the EA81T engine.
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You can still get R12, but it is damn hard to come by. It will cost more and it will be a special order item.
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Hmmm, that doesn't seem to show the EA82 S/R 5 speed trans, or the XT6 trans either...
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I can't seem to find the old gear ratio chart for the old school chassis. Anyone still got the link?
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Ok, good to know. Besides the 3.900 final drive on the XT6, is there any substantive differences in gearing between a FT4WD 5MT XT6 transmission and an FT4WD RX 5MT?
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I'm wondering what the spline count is on the front differential stub shafts of an XT6 transmission. Will EA81 axles slide right on, or do I need to swap out the stub shafts for EA81 parts?
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Sell me the EA81T parts! You'll probably want to start with a carb'd engine. The turbo ones have lower compression pistons that will really hurt the power output of an N/A engine.
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The blue interiors seem to hold up better than the beige EA81 interior parts, specifically the inside door handle trim.
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I was able to correctly ID eight, so I guess I haven't been around here long enough...
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Find some of the little fisbee-like cone things they use for soccer/lacrosse practice.
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carfreak85 replied to pginter96's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThere is no variable valve timing on the EG33. Cam phasing is always static, unchanging.
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The EA81Ts all had the door chime installed, but not wired into the dash harness. When I swapped my digi-dash to analog, I inadvertently connected the chime to the harness. The first time I powered the system up the door was open. I clearly remember the chime, which had never made noise in the last 25 years, creak to life and start chiming away as if it had always been connected. rrrrrRRRRRING! Ding! Ding! Ding! Ding! Ding! It was the funniest thing! And then I unplugged it again because it was so obnoxious...
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"An A/C system is just a set of pipes with gas inside instead of a fluid." MISINFORMATION WARNING!!! (Taken from an HVAC service manual I'm working on at my place of employment): "Heat is removed from the air by drawing the air over tube-and-fin type evaporators filled with liquefied R-134a. The boiling action of the R-134a removes heat from the air passing through the evaporator, producing refrigerated air. The refrigerant moves from the evaporator to the compressor where it is compressed into a superheated gas. The heat from this process is then dissipated as the superheated gas condenses into liquid form as it passes through the condenser. The refrigerant then travels to the expansion valve to be changed into a low pressure gas that can accept heat as it passes through the evaporator in the cab."
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As an EA81T owner who recently replaced their radiator, a regular old EA81 radiator will fit the EA81T, no problem. Just get an EA81 rad and be done.
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carfreak85 replied to pginter96's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXJust buy an EJ205 and swap that in, it will be much more reliable. Hell, just find a cheap WRX wagon and be done, swapping is almost more trouble than it's worth vs. finding a $4k WRX.
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Nope, the EA81T and the EA82s used the same RESERVOIR, but the pump is different. I figured this out when one of my hardlines started leaking. I was hoping I could just swap in the EA82 bits, but the actual pump section (a separate part from the reservoir) has the inlet and outlet in a different place and they will NOT clear the EA81T distributor.
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Stop leak isn't a lubricant, it shouldn't be in the crankcase. It also insulates the inside of your cooling system, making it less efficient. Besides all that, if you use it and later replace the fluid in question, there will still be some percentage of stop leak gunk in the system that you may never be able to fully remove. Now if you're stuck in the wilderness and you don't really care about the vehicle in question, go ahead and use the stuff. But it won't fix the problem, honestly.
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In for results when parts arrive!
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Never, EVER use a "stop leak" product of any kind. FIX THE ROOT PROBLEM, don't throw a Band-Aid at it...
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What are your plans for the rotory bits out of the black RX?
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carfreak85 replied to steve56's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI don't have pictures, but hopefully I can explain it to you. I've got about three engines and 4 transmissions in my garage and I needed a way to move them around, if necessary. I went and bought three furniture dollies and two 10' or 12' 2x4" boards and set them on edge with the dollies spaced evenly from end to end on the two boards and screwed it all together. The heads of each engine rest on the top of the 2" section of the 2x4. I'll get some pictures if it would help.
