Gloyale

Factory wires combine front and rear grounds together. This setup doesn't work well for decks designed to run separate grounds. Running new grounds to the front speakers is one simple way of seperating the wiring. Your loyale may not have rear speakers, but the wiring will be there for them. If you want to stay with just front speakers, no need to seperating grounds just use the wires listed as rear grounds for the front ground.

Factory wires combine front and rear grounds together. This setup doesn't work well for decks designed to run separate grounds. Running new grounds to the front speakers is one simple way of seperating the wiring. Your loyale may not have rear speakers, but the wiring will be there for them. If you want to stay with just front speakers, no need to seperating grounds just use the wires listed as rear grounds for the front ground.

Yes but the adapters splice right side and left side grounds tougher. Kills the deck. Green wire by itself is constant power Blue/yellow wire is switched power White is front left positive Yellow is front right positive Run new wires to the front speaker grounds at the kick panels Yellow white is rear left positive Use the blue/red for rear left negative White/blue is rear right posit e Use the blue/black for rear right negative Red and red/green wires are for illumination dimmer

Way up under the dash. In the far drivers side corner up towards we're the harness goes through the firewall, there is a 2 pole "t" connector with a yellow/red and a black wire. Black connector. This is the cruise optional hookup for the vss. Connect the black wire to ground. The yellow red is the vss signal. You can get it at the dash like you described. But I think you need to give the reed switch with that ground.

Newer subarus are equiped with EXCACTLY the same weak ignition switch all of us old gen guys have been dealing with this same issue for years. The difference is now 90's cars are 15~20 years old, so the new gen cars are having the same issues. Ignition switch gets weak/corroded contacts inside. They won't conduct enough amps to hold the starter solenoid closed. Solution is a relay, or a pushbutton. My favorite is to wire up a relay, that is triggered by the key, or can be triggered by a pushbutton if the key doesn't work.

Just get a non-leaking power rack. It's the same work if not less (no swapping alt brackets, belts, steering couplers)....and the power racks are easy to find at wreckers, and actually still available new and reman from someplaces. I can deal with manual steering on a Brat or a Hatch.....but in an EA82.......there are SOOOO many power racks out there, just seems like a no brainer.

Change the balljoints and tierods. Those are the on;y parts that would "fall apart" and fail causing an accident. I will bet once you get those fixed, the pulling/vibration will be greatly reduced. I would bet that the shaking around 55-65 is a CV axle, and won't really be a safety issue.

He likely used the arrows not the hash marks. Use the hash marks on the CAM pulleys, and the one on the crank pulley is on the "ear" on the back, 180 off from the keyway.

BullSHEET! My wheeler is the most bad rump roast piece of machinery ever to exist, and I will drive full throttle over any and all obstacles. Suck my dust, losers! NOT

BIg white wire? Goes through the Fusible link box.

That's the Center differential. That clip is the retainer for the viscous coupler pack. I would say it's best to buy a new viscous coupler and replace the gears on the shafts.

You could also make the ECU ground a relay, instead of the pump itself. Then provide a path through the relay to provide the full ground contact to the ECU. Or I have a turbo Flapper ECU I could sell you I've run NA off turbo ECU's But I would not run a Turbo engine off an NA ECU.

Well.....lets see, an 85 Hatchback would have had an EA81, not an EA82. EA71 wouldn't have been in an 86 wagon. There were some EA71s in 86, but only in FWD hatches.....and those would be the "fat case" EA71 that share the bellhousing with the EA81/82 engines. If the EA71 you are talking about is the type with the starter hole at the very top of the bellhousing, then it's alot older than 86. It would have to be from the late 70's or early 80's 2wds or DL model 4wds. If the starter is at the top of the bell, that engine won't work with the EA81/EA82 transmissions. An 85 GL 4wd would have had an EA81 from the factory.

If you've got spark and fuel and all the intake hoses are tight then it must be a timing issue.

Fwiw i don't even run pins on my wheeler. Never a problem. 1000s of miles I'll bet the op in this thread has the axle 180 out

nevermind

subaru ignition switches get weak. poor contact cant conduct enough amps. add a relay, or a direct pushbutton. or better yet, a relay triggered by a pushbutton.

Sounds like you need to order an axle for a turbo GL or Xt 4cyl.

Height adjustable seats the rails are welded to the seat frame Can be swapped but more complicated than pass side seats w/o adjustable height. Drill out or grind off the welds.

The electronic speed sensors still send that signal up to the dash, and then the dash transmits the pulse to the ECU. I'm not sure you could hook the vss directly to the ECU?

The one at the top of the transfer section on the back is the 4wd light. Hook this up to the existing wiring it will light the "DIFF LOCK" light in the dash. The other is the Reverse lights this one sounds like the nuetral......in line with the shift selector rod? You should be able to hook all these up using the intermediate wiring off the old trans to plug into the switches, then plug that into the car. The last one hanging with one shielded wire is probably the old O2 sensor wire. And there is one Black/Red wire which does not need not be in that ground bundle you made. It's a Black//red at pin 13 of the male connector. Originally went to the TPS, so with no TPS or ECU at either end it really doesn't matter just clarifying.

As the alternative to it being thrown away I got enough Subaru parts I don't need more but i'll take it if your trashin it. Sorry, didn't mean to give the wrong impression.

Nuetral and purge won't affect running really. I would still suspect an air leak somewhere or a fuel issue.

You can swap all the 97 intake wiring harness over to the newer engines intake. You may have to spice the injector connectors, or slice the alignment tabs off them. You will need to swap throttle bodies (use the 97 and it's TPS). Likely will need to make a plate that bolts between the TB and the intake, that extends up a bit to block off the IAC portion of the newer intake.. The rest is PCV routing which may need an adapter to fit the newer block vent? But otherwise the same. You may also need to swap the Crank and Cam sprockets with the triggers......Depends on what is on the new engine, but they need to match the 97 style, or be switched.

Absolutely classic symptoms of Subaru Headgasket failure. Take it somewhere reputable, that will do the work. This guy just doesn't want to deal with it probably because he's unfamiliar with the internals of the "that crazy 6 cyl boxer with the chain"