Gloyale

On older cars the S wire is not connected directly to the battery output wire. It is connected to the IG. circuit "BW wire on EA, Yellow wire on 90-94 EJ"

It's tyhe same thing. They called it "fulltime 4wd" for a while, and then swapped to the simpler AWD in later years. All of them are the same even the connectors from 90-98 just gotta find the correct ratios. >

Sense or signal.....whatever. But on older cars it went to switched 12v. it's not until around 95 that they tied it straight to the battery leads. FWIW, Either way works fine. It's the L post that really needs to see the 12v through a load.

L is for Charge lamp. 12v to this terminal MUST come through a load or you will fry the ALT. S is for "signal" volts. 12v switched on older, 12v constant from Batt on newer.

Subaru's corrugated intake tubes can sometimes produce a loud "whistle" type sound under far open throttle acceleration. More prominent on 90-96 models with fully tubular intake. Newer models have the large rectangular box at eh back, but still can make a pretty good whistle at wide open throttle + high rpms. no sound file attached

the 84 will be more less troublesome.

Saw a Brat with an STI EJ20 in it at a WCSS a few years back. Didn't have any mods to the frame rail. Tight, but no cutting or bashing done.

Dopn't bother with cork or any type of oil pan gasket. Just clean it well and use "The Right Stuff" RTV to seal it will work better than any gasket.

so my thought is does those points in rear are strong enough to be used as for lifting car. Yes it's strong enough. If it isn't you've got big trouble since the rear subframe bolts to those box sections. Overthinking this here. Bolt on a bumper that is robust enough to not bend. Forget about lifting from sides. Nothing but trouble waiting to happen there. As you pointed out, the jack presses against the door. you're asking for bent door frame or broken window. If you don't want advice, don't ask. But many of us here have been building lifted subarus much bigger than yours for years and we are telling you what works.

You are thinking of EA71 first gen vehichles. EA81 cars will fit EJ22 or EJ25D without notching frame.

2 bolts below bottom cushion. lift it up and out. depending on model # of bolts varies, but now the seat back bolts will be obvious.

you can keep the 4wd lever just cut and weld to proper length. But the gear shifter will need to be an adapted 5-spd unit. (since the 4-spd shifter is integral to the rear of trans) Can cut and weld the chrome post but other wise no difference.

Build robust bumpers with lift points built in on each corner. Don't bother highlifting of the sides. the rockers are a weak point anyhow, and you will end up crushing up into rust prone areas behind the wheels.

What???? I can't say for sure. But the 4eats isn't THAT much larger. 2-3" subframe drop should clear it just fine.

yes will work for 05, but not for 06 or newer. 06 uses AVLS (active variable lift system) valves with specific type heads. and pistons. But yes 04 253 should work in an 05 as long as it's not AVLS

blown fusible link.

somethings wrong if you get clunking. And typically FWD cars tend to Push or understeer. Adding in the rear drive makes it more nuetral, and even likely to throttle on oversteer. Last summer I got a deal on 2 sets of 2 tires each same size but different type. Ran in FWD to use these on pavement until winter came and I switched to a matched set of snows. 98 forester No clunks or other issues.

couple more down low near the hinges for the glove box

what type opf scanner are you using? seen some cheapies that won't communicate with Soobs after 02.

subaru sells a whole kit to renew the pumps. about $40 bucks for seals and o-ring and a bearing.

The resistor block is in the Ducting, between the Blower and the Evap core. rectangular 4 pin plug. IT's in the ducting to keep the resistor cool from air movement. NOT in the switch.

better diagram For XT but electrically excactly the same as any internal reg. EA alternator. IMG_2814 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2814 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

correct. If working properly. But if there is a large delay, it can be dangerous on snow/ice. I've experienced white knuckle situations in the old 4eat equipped turbo GL. While negotiationg a turn, it would begin to "push" through the corner, front wheels start spinning just a bit and WHAM!!! the rear drive kicks in and send the car into an oversteer skid. Very abrupt and unsettleing. In that case, I would recommend using the LOCK switch in very slick conditions. Again, I have no problem with my newer, current cars with AWD working proper.

Take the cap of the disty and crank the engine. Watch that the rotor turns. If it doesn't turn, the keyway that hold the worm gear that drives the disty off the Cam may have stripped.

look carefully in the exhaust port for cracks at the end of the dividing ridge where it meets the walls. Common crack area on a turbo engine, not so common on NA. FWIW, That pipe off the exhaust is not the EGR.....it's from teh old Air Suction system for the exhaust. Blocked off is fine. EGR is short 90 deg. bent pipe from top of cyl head, #3 cyl to the intake.