Numbchux

the clutch issue might not be as much of an issue as you think. there's a company here in Duluth (not a big town.....so I suspect you could find one close to you) that does custom clutches, and they're not any more expensive than comparable off-the-shelf options. I'm sure a disc with different splines wouldn't be difficult at all. here's the shop I'm referring to: http://www.lakeheadclutch.com/index.htm

wow, nice. wish I knew someone up here that could do that quality rust repair. I'm going to have a very similar project on a brat this summer

Obviously we have no idea wtf you're talking about. and, since the is not a thing ('08-10 STI were only avail as a hatch), you need to spend some time with google image search and show us.

I don't know much about it. but I do know that one of the guys in our club had one for years, almost exactly like that. He regeard, locked the rear, did a SOA, and put some 33" swampers, and wheeled it quite a bit. I got to drive it a bit once on the trail, seemed to do very well.

he's talking about lengthening the radius (leading) rod, not the control arm. Lengthening the radius rod pushes the bottoms forward (caster), not out. I put small (1/2"?) spacers behind the forward bushing on the rod to push things forward on a couple cars at stock ride height. There's also a company that makes adjustable ones, they can be found from many sources (I know I've seen them on rockauto).

I bet this never happens If you are serious. There are literally thousands of combinations that would fit the very limited criteria that you have laid out. You have a TON of research to do. You obviously have a very limited understanding of this project, which usually leads to wasted money and/or a wasted project.

It doesn't sound at all like the tstat isn't working. i would agree that it isn't open, but if the car isn't overheating, I'm betting the short drive was short enough that it hasn't needed to open yet. The system should pressurize. Your description of the hoses and such sound 100% normal. The cap should not leak, however. Replace it. If that doesn't solve it, the flange might be damaged, as Miles said.

4 speed? '85 '86 4-speed would be an EA81. All EA82 manuals are 5-speeds, and the 4EAT didn't start until '87.5. The outer splines are the same for all EA82s. The inners are all 23 spline except turbos which are 25.

You'll want the highest backspacing you can get your hands on. You probably don't want to go over 4" backspacing, but that probably won't be an option with a 14" wheel.

Yea, PBR will do that

Be glad it happened on a corner with a disc brake..... I had almost the exact same thing happen on the rear of my '85. Except the drum (and therefore the wheel) came off about 100 ft after the nut. Then, when the wheel passed me, I hit the brakes.....which proceeded to over-extend the wheel cylinder, and send springs and levers and shoes all over the road. Then I realized I didn't have a jack. Luckily I was only about 10 miles from home, so my dad came with a floor jack and helped me piece it all back together.

The housing was there. But someone had pulled the hi-pinion elocker 3rd out of it, and in the process left the remains of the knuckles scattered all over the place. Got the front tires on last night. Going to have to trim a bit, but it'll work. As of this morning, the driveshafts are in. The front shaft that was on the truck had a couple of pretty large balancing weights on it. Well, I got the shaft almost all the way in, and realized they were going to hit the tranny pan. Luckily I saved the front shaft from the '86 I parted out a couple years ago. It had one little weight, which does clear. Just another issue since I'm not doing a 4" bracket lift, like they recommend.

Picked up some tires today.... going back for the other 2 tomorrow on the truck: Almost brand-new 35x12.5r15 Cooper Discoverer STTs, and wheels, $650.

Outback wheels do not have different offset than non-outback wheels of the same dimensions (15x6.5, I think). It seems to be very hit or miss how peoples axles respond to this mod. I've heard a few stories where the axles just weren't happy, no matter what (new axles, alignment, etc.). I would have though if any car was going to have a problem, my dad's rusty old '94 would have, but that thing went all over the country for years with the BG suspension under it.

lower radiator hose is not interchangeable between an EA82 GL and EA82 Loyale. The Loyale one can be trimmed to work, but is not correct. If someone at Napa or Autozone (I don't know anything about baxter's) told you they don't have model-specific rad hoses, they should loose their job, as they're just lying because they don't feel like looking it up.

good grief. Dealer for a radiator hose? Only if you don't like your money Just go to your local parts store. They'll be able to get a molded hose that will fit perfect. If you'd prefer online, Rockauto.com is the place to go.

Yea, I wonder if anyone's every done that before

You'll have to find a US distributor of SuperPro. When I bought mine, it was kind of a pain. I believe I went through Modern Automotive Performance here in MN ( http://www.MAPerformance.com ). Sway bars on mine were all 20mm. Although they don't make bushings that will fit under the stock rear straps.

Hmmm........my EJ donor car was a '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy. I've used those axles in a few EA/ER cars with zero length problems. Maybe they are shorter! BTW, the inner wheel bearing seal is a different size between XT6 and EJ knuckles. So if you are going to mix and match axles, you will need a different seal, otherwise the axle won't seat correctly and your wheel bearing will come apart. Separating the outer CV Joint from the shaft.....I give you, the pipe trick:

spent some quality time on a '95 FZJ-80 at one of the UPull yards in the twin cities yesterday. Got full-floating hubs, disc brakes, and a factory selectable locker for about $150. The calipers will have to be ground a bit to fit under 15" wheels.... The axles don't support any weight, and can be removed with the wheel still on

I thought the EGR port was on the head. So, just to clarify, you're just talking about dropping the '96 shortblock in a '90? Using the '90 heads, intake manifold, wiring, etc. etc. The EGR thing is the only thing I can think of that you might have in issue with. I thought it was on the head, but if not, just block it off.

alright, I'll say what I've been thinking the whole time. Cinder blocks...safety last, huh. Also, I'm glad to hear you only had to drill 2 holes to swap the XT6 crossmember. that must be a lot simpler than drilling 2 holes to use the EA82 crossmember and just the XT6 control arms.

Yep, the XT6 is front handbrake. EJ stuff offers much better brake and suspension options. The tab on the knuckle for the tie rod end is in a slightly different place, which helps with the bump-steer and roll center. I ran without a handbrake for a long time, didn't really bother me. But I also swapped to Nissan 200SX calipers in the rear. You can also re-drill EJ rear backing plates to use the EJ drum-in-disc parking brakes and calipers. This means you only need the XT6 hubs, and almost any EJ brake combination. Or, there's some combination of early EJ 2-pot caliper brackets (turbo legacy, or ver. 1 WRX, I believe) that will allow you to put the XT6 caliper on the EJ knuckle. This means you still have the single-pot calipers, but the larger 276mm rotors.

getting a belt short to run without the A/C isn't difficult. the better wrap on the pulleys without the compressor, and reduced load makes a 4-rib work just fine. I believe the one I used was for a honda of some sort. I have a thread about it on subaruxt do it! You'll have to find somewhere to put all that wiring...but other than that it'll be fairly straightforward

What do you want to know? Here's the code from that EJ D/R that I had for awhile: The "X" is for Dual-range 5MT The last 4 are pretty hard to decode. But by substituting the "X" for a "V", I found an archived NASIOC post by gruppe-s listing this info: "-Push Type 5 Speed -1st 3.545, 2nd 1.947, 3rd 1.366, 4th 0.972, 5th 0.738, Final 3.9"