Numbchux

As usual....you've missed the point. It'd be cheaper to build a Subaru motor to that, yourself. But that's not what they're offering. Complete kit. Install, turn the key, haul rump roast. Only thing that would be easier, would be another air cooled VW engine.....which will not be anywhere near 400hp

Ah, yea. Outfront does some phenomenal work when it comes to using Subaru motors in.....anything really. The key to that price tag, is this, "Outfront turn-key motors include the motor, adapter with flywheel, computer, fuel pump, air cleaner, and wiring harness ready to install in your car" I'm pretty sure they come with Exhaust and turbo, as well. Designed to be used in a buggy (with the turbo mounted in "front" of the engine like that).

I'm confused..... You can get 500hp for a lot less than that!

Sweet! I love the burnout pictures.

Yea......very little of it is going to work without extreme modification. The front suspension is pretty much similar in basic function only. The control arms are completely different, the struts are completely different, the track width is different so the axles and tie rods aren't the same length (not to mention different on both ends as well). The rear suspension is completely different. Some of the simpler components can be used with modification....but not any more than something from a completely different make. It's been done, there's a guy in the UK that put an Impreza drivetrain under a Brat....but it included fabricating entirely new mounting points, strut towers, tunnels, etc. etc. It was a huge undertaking, and he said he would not have done it that way again.

They're pretty difficult to weld where they are. The sheet metal that you are welding to is very thin, and there's a lot of undercoating. I did that on one of my wagons.....and it was almost as hard as fixing it correctly (weld a nut to a fender washer, then weld the washer in the hole). You can cut into that channel from the interior. Then you'll be able to put a vice grips on the back side, which will make it easier to remove. Then get a big fender washer and a new nut, and bolt it back together.

Several people have done various levels of extreme suspension setups on EA82s, myself included.... If you're really talking about serious time attacking, you'll need 5-lug to get adequate axles, brakes, bearings and suspension. In which case, basically any coilover set for the multi-link EJs can be made to work ('00+ Legacy chassis, and '08+ Impreza Chassis).

Good to know. Like I said, the fluid does not look old. Maybe I'll use some SeaFoam TransTune transmission flush before I change the fluid, and see if I can't get it to let loose. I did not know about the AT Temp light, so that's good to know. Another peculiar thing.....this car chewed up a set of tires. When I was inspecting it before I bought it, I noticed the left rear tire was basically bald. The PO said she bought them all at the same time, and had not had them rotated....so I assumed there was something out of whack. But it drives straight and true, I've pushed it a bit into corners, and I wouldn't guess it's got any alignment issues or bad bushings. Anyone ever heard of binding AWD chewing up tires?

I feel like there should be a definitive sticky on this, or something in the USRM.....I know it's common, but never payed much attention to the discussion. Well....I bought a '96 Outback from my ex-girlfriend, it needs a lot of work, but I know I can rehabilitate it for a profit. 175k ish miles. Stock, original transmission/rear diff (4EAT). Swapped to a '94 2.2 several years ago. It's got nasty torque bind. FWD fuse seems to remedy it (it's also got a badly clicking CV, which got massively worse in FWD, so bad that I did not test for bind). Fluid looks very clean, so I suspect it's been serviced. But I may do it again.... Anyway, I will double-check this stuff, but let's assume that the Duty C is fine, and fluid/filter doesn't fix it. What's the next step.....transfer clutches?

With the right tools, knowledge, and time, basically anything is possible. I've seen EVERY newer Subaru engine ever made in that chassis, I've seen Toyota and NIssan straight 6's, Domestic V8s, etc. FWD, AWD/4WD, RWD. It's basically all been done.... You need to evaluate what you're able to do yourself. If you need to pay someone to do anything, you need to find that person, and see what THEY are capable of.

Negative. The ones you posted are from a 98-99 Outback. The ones Miles and I are referring to are from a '91-93 Turbo Legacy and '96-97 Outback. Better pictures of both from RockAuto. These are the really tough ones:

I'm sorry....your posts are very hard to read. So I'm really not quite sure what all you're saying. But, I will say, XT6 and EA82ts had stronger pressure plates than a standard EA82. Several aftermarket companies have superceded it all into one part number (I suspect somewhere in between, strength-wise). I drove for awhile with an EJ22 with a used standard EA82 clutch behind it. It didn't last terribly long, but it was used when I did the swap....so I really can't say how well it held up. I have used 2 Beck/Arnley clutch kits (they used the same part number for XT6 and EA82t.....might have changed since then) behind EJ22 swaps with great results. I bought a Duralast (I work at AutoZone now) clutch kit which I think was listed for an EA82t that I plan to put in my Brat behind an EJ18, opened the box to find "Exedy" stamped all over the parts...

Miles is actually referring to these....and I agree. They beefy!

That things is hideous! The definition of function over form. I love it! Good work!

I think most stock import wheels should be a good fit. mediocre picture, the stock camber/castor settings make the front look a little out of whack....but you get the idea. Those are stock '86 4Runner steelies. There are several modern minivans that use 6-lug these days. Kia Sedona, Chevy Venture, and others. They have very car-like suspension, so I suspect they would have very high offset/backspace wheels. I haven't looked into this at all, I don't even know if it's the same bolt pattern, but it sure looks similar.

Correction. 87 Toyota front calipers would be 4 pots....not 2. Also, the toyota rotors bolt on behind the hub, instead of sliding over the studs. That would complicate the install considerably.

a few of mine and AutoX

No. Even several amateur stage rally cars go to tubular arms. Crawl under any of the Vermont cars at an event....there are zero stock pieces under there. That said, go alloy. Even stockers will be just fine. There are aftermarket alloys for rally (Team Dynamics, Braid, OZ, Speedline, etc. etc.) that will be stronger, but not by much. If you put enough force into an alloy wheel to cause major damage, you're going to be damaging suspension components, regardless of what you're running. Really, the big upside to those aftermarket wheels, is they will clear Group N front brakes (296mm rotors/4-pot calipers). The down side, is the "shear pin" will be your tires....if they have a pretty tough sidewall like an actual rally tire, they will just flex, and you'll be fine, if they're street tires or even snow tires (winterforces are a common RallyX choice here as the tread pattern is one of the best for the loose dirt we usually race on) you'll probably be popping the bead off regularly.

Ha, an EJ would be interesting. If I were going to swap something, it would be the a VVT 1MZFE (variable valve timed 3.0l aluminum V6 with 210hp), but this chassis isn't worth the effort. Also, they're the 17x8 Rota Torques that have graced several of my Subarus. That's very good to know, I'll look into that. I've been planning the rotor/bracket swap from a 5th gen GT and keeping the stock calipers. But if there's some combination of 6th gen parts that would allow dual-piston calipers would be interesting. I'm really hoping that I can find an upgrade that will still fit under my XT6 14s....but that may not be an option. Considering just some performance pads, but I don't want to do that without new rotors, and if I get new rotors....they might as well be larger....

I've had this car for almost 3 years, since my last XT6 died. Not much to say about it originally, 1.6l, AT, FWD, Manual everything (except the sunroof). But, over the years, I've been putting miles on it, and making it mine. The day I bought it: Some Junkyard parts to add cruise control: It's 5x100, but uses lower offset wheels that Subarus. Needed these in the rear: And making good use of the Blizzak Revo1s that have graced several of my Subarus: Built a "light bar" Ice testing with ZRT #171: Removed the front sway bar (doing it correctly means dropping the exhaust.....so I used a sawzall) I let our rally driver use it for Recce before 100 Acre Wood Rally a couple years ago.....and he got it stuck: So he let me use his rally wheels and Blizzak WS70s for the drive home: That trip was the end of the stock struts, so I put a full set of KYB GR2s. And to continue (beyond front sway bar removal) changing the balance to more oversteer-y, I used ground-control adjustment sleeves (left over from the FrankenWagon), with some Summit Racing 175 lb/in springs (stock are about 130 lb). Which lifted the rear for a more aggressive stance: Trailer hitch: Towing my Jet-Ski: Put a new radiator in it....old one... Last winter, I noticed a blown "bushing" (they're actually spherical bearings) in one of the rear lateral links, it made for some really goofy handling, and was chewing up tires. Luckily I had some old all-seasons to sacrifice while I awaited an opportunity to repair it correctly. Poly bushings are available for the next body style, so I waited to find one in a junkyard. A few weeks ago, I scored....a '94 Celica GT came up in the local UPull yard....and got this Had the backing plates sand-blasted, as they were very badly rusted POR15 One new caliper (really only needed a bracket....but they're not commonly available separately), and painted them: Painted the rest of the parts, installed the poly bushings, and started assembly: Wheel studs removed so I can transfer the longer ones and spacers from the old hubs. Rotors, pads, shoes, and hardware will be here tomorrow. Then I need the snow to recede enough to actually do the job....

I don't know if the one I used is tungsten or not. I burned up several grinding stones and cutting bits that came with the starter kit on my dremel the first flywheel I did, then I got one of these...., I did the whole flywheel with one bit, and it was still up for more.

Just using the 35/38mph number, that's more than an 8% discrepancy. And Speedometers are calibrated to read high, so I bet if you compare your odometer to a GPS, you'll find it's even more than that. Tire size calculations (just 23 v 27") calculate to about 17%. That is significant!

Don't really need to modify the crossmember. Drop right in. Your fuel pump will work just fine. Flywheel modification is easy. The bolt holes are the same size, but the EA82 pattern is slightly asymmetrical so the flywheel only fits on one way (timing marks on the flywheel), whereas the EJ one is symmetrical. Best is to get an EJ flexplate, lay it on the EA82 wheel, and shoot some paint through the holes, and grind until the paint is gone. Dremel makes a high-speed grinding bit that cuts through the flywheel material pretty damn well. I've done a few myself.

Pretty hard to say, as there are so many factors involved. Honestly, on my lifted wagons, I didn't see much of a difference if I was careful how I drove them (both FI '88s on ~28" tires....means you don't use 5th gear any more). The important thing you have to do is figure out your odometer conversion to make up for the tire size. Best way is to use a GPS while on the highway to figure out distance traveled compared to an odometer reading (the longer, the better). Not quite as accurate, but still a good benchmark, is to figure out your speedometer discrepancy (with a GPS, or even a radar speed sign), or even just calculate the tire size difference....

Yep, the Miata rears are a few inches shorter than EA82 4WDs, and there are more aftermarket options than EJ fronts....including AGXs. That's what I ran in the back of my wagon with the 5-lug and 17x8 Rotas.