kanurys

This is a long shot, but perhaps the exhaust is partially clogged (at the cat?). It gets worse when hot and expanded and startes pushing exhaust back through the reed valves also causing the reed valve burning. This is totally speculation - but maybe check the exhaust flow when warmed up. Also see what is coming out of the reed valves (air suck valves) at their intake at the air cleaner (or what ever it is since you have a weber).

That's exactly what I was thinking/suggesting. I guess it could be any of the heavy gauge cable terminals from the battery or starter or the ignition switch or the starter relay/solenoid. There is really only one other place to look and that is the fuse circuit, but that rarely fails. Maybe throw another fuse in there for sh1ts and giggles. Hot wiring it should get closer to isolating the problem...

I'd work down the line of ignition stuff and start ruling out switch, then hot wire the relay for the starter because you're messing with less power. Then if it's the same do the jumper cable thing. It kind of sounds like a failing starter relay or starter (as it heats up it fails, then cools down quickly and does it all over again).

I agree - definitely helicoil it. The original size helicoil is actually stronger than the old hole (done properly). I've had the best luck with a reverse drill bit, then helicoil kit and drill bit recommended on the kit packaging. Good luck.

Even better, don't crank it to test the ignition switch. Just unplug the harness under the dash and hook up a multi meter. Then test all key positions for continuity. Jiggle the key in each position to try to get it to fail. If it passes, then do the check mentioned above. Just work your way through the system starting with the switch. Sometimes the multimeter will read a good connection, but when you pass large amounts of current through the circuit, a bad connection can just act like a resistor and not allow proper voltage/current to pass. This is why both tests described above together will be definitive. You can do the same thing with the relay (starter relay), or swap in another.

yeah.

If you keep the D/R don't forget the rear LSD swap.

But if you were to pull the engine, you'd need to disconnect: What grossgary said about the a/c bracket - move aside but don't disconnect a/c hoses 4 bolts on tranny (obviously) hill stopper pitch stopper mounts line from coil to dist. ground cable in front of battery to engine fuel lines wiring harness for sensors/vac control/electrical distributor... remove radiator and all fans including mechanical vac line to hvac and cruise spare tire support bar throttle cable power steering lines afterburner valve to egr valve line purge canister brake booster line heater hoses going to firewall I know I'm forgetting something, but that's most of it.

Ya, just keep it slow for this tank of gas. I have a naturally aspirated ea82 with decked heads to raise the compression. Even it pings like a bastard without premium fuel. A little pinging won't hurt anybody's feelings or the engine, as long as it's not long term. Maybe it's because I have the timing advanced so far, but I like low end torque for nerding around in the forest.

I'm working on a digital readout device of selectable data to replace the clock in my GL. One feature to think about on my list is sensors to detect inclination. First on the list is to get the GPS receiver working so I can see all of that data, then external temp, then maybe inclination.

I changed the oil and filter (10w30 Valvoline synth and scoob filter) on the 87 GL. It really likes the slippery stuff. Also, the legacy outback has a new driver's side heated power mirror on it's way in the mail, so I took the door apart and popped off the broken one preemptively. Now to fix this dang computer.

It was about 0 deg. F last night and my crappy windshield wiper was so brittle that it snapped off of the arm when I was scraping my window.

Fixed the ghetto cruiser's rear defrost circuit (switch and relay are good, ground is good, bad spade connector). I think it snowed a foot today - still snowing. I love my lifted wagon...

Driver's side mirror was dangling by wires this morning. Grrrr. Plows...

I put a new thin radiator fan and radiator temp switch in my GL. I went to get into my legacy outback at 5:45am and the driver's side mirror was dangling by a few wires. The po po said there were 5 others in the neighborhood. "Do you think it was kid or a plow?" he asked. I said that judging by the 6 inches of fresh snow on the ground I'm going with plow.

Passenger side roof trip fell off.

damit. so jealous. There is an almost perfect 86 XT for sale a few blocks from my house. I've been stairing at it's rear diff every time I go by. I just drove up into the mountains for a hike with my lady friend. there is about a foot of snow (speaking of snow wagons). The totally open diff performed great. I can't wait to find an LSD for it!

I ball-peened my ps reservoir, too. Out here in CO it's 10 deg F in the night and 60 in the day, so the choke definitely does a good job. In the morning it still needs to start twice if it's been that cold. In the summer it revs right up without any gas pedal (after the first push to set the choke up). I guess you could do it either way. I just chose to use a spacer and modify the ps stuff... Anyways, if one is to need clearance and wants to block off their carb coolant passage in the manifold, then one could kill two birds with one stone and make a tall spacer/block off plate. I like the idea of keeping the coolant flowing openly throughout the manifold area since it helps keep fuel vaporized on it's way to the combustion chamber. Maybe that's why these engines don't flood easily - BUT they have that dang coolant leaking into the intake problem... ON SUBJECT, I found that the OEM gaskets were thicker (as discussed all over this forum) and they covered that 1/16" displacement between the plates a little better than the crappy aftermarket or red-line gaskets.

True, more gaskets suck, but most of the weber-ed ea82's with power steering have to put the plastic spacer plate from the old carb in there, anyways, to give rise to clear the PS. I guess you could make a really thick spacer to replace it and double as a block off. Like 1/2" material.

I had this problem on my EA82 Weberized 1987. I used OEM gaskets and pushed the plates/gaskets around until they overlapped as much as possible. It's been fine ever since. Also, you could just make a block-off plate out of aluminium and put it at the very bottom of the stack with an extra OEM intake gasket. That would solve the coolant/intake problem and would be a clean solution, still allowing coolant to circulate through the manifold as it was designed.

Normally, these don't go bad until high mileage. Mine was only at 140,000 miles and it was on an overheated engine and was brittle. I picked up an NOK (OEM) online for $7 by searching google shopping. Be cautious when installing this as it can go in very crooked and eventually too deep. Note the brand and depth of the old seal and report back here.

That's great to hear. Are you going to re-drill your flywheel or have someone else do it? SJR? My GF's 2004 SOHC impreza engine is very torque-y and tons of fun. Winter up here in Durango is a few months and is usually accompanied by tons of snow. I already tried the lifted 87 GL in about 6" of pow pow with the 29's. That was a blast. Keep us updated on your progress, please. Also, regarding your custom center console plate, I think I'm going to make something like that and use the old boot. Yours is way slick.

For a turbo it's a good idea. You can get one of those nice PERRINs or make your own, but it won't work quite as well. I think board member CMILLER has the Perrin and loves it. I put my own in on a N/A EA82 with totally clean intake, so I have a point of reference on how dirty it gets over time. So far I've caught a little bit of nasty soup. Maybe you could do my ghetto mod and use a jar to see if it makes a difference before you buy a nice one? That was my plan. Then let us know how much and at what rate your turbo engine collects oil in the PCV system? SK

Wow, nice catch can. I made a home made version with a prego jar. It's clear so I can see what gets caught in it. Yes - you put it between the driver's side valve cover and the pcv. Make sure your system has T fitting and a smaller tube between the catch can and pcv to break the vaccume. This smaller tube should go to clean atmospheric pressure (air cleaner or standalone filter). I have caught a tiny bit of oil, running normally. Mostly condensation water is what I catch. Up here in CO it's dry and we have big temp differences between night and day, so closed spaces catch a lot of condensation. The only time I got a few ounces of oil in it is when I was parked on a steep hill with the driver's side pointed down hill, it was about 10 degrees F on a cold start and about 2000 RPM (really thick oil). I'm glad I had the can in there then. p.s. Nice engine in the picture, above I had fun rebuilding it. Somewhere in there I posted a picture of my can and there is some discussion of PCV setup correctly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&highlight=1987+build+thread

This does have plastic tanks. I figured I'd make a small sheet metal bracket that slips onto the switch like a washer but has a tab protruding to connect a spade terminal to. Since I'm running a relay through this instead of the entire current of the fan, it should be fine. On another note, do you guys put a resistor in-line with the relay? I've heard an argument both ways...