GLCraig

You may have a warped brake rotor.

did you remember to delete your sent message folder too?

It should

I'm about to hit the road, see you all there.

Here's some insentive to not forget... I have finished making that tool for you.

I know it takes just over 3 hours to get to Edrach's place from mine, should I expect it to take much more to get to this place?

That specific model is not listed on their website anymore. Here's a link to what they currently offer. http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/tires_popup.cfm?id=1&w=1 here's another link to their dealer locations http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/map.cfm

Subaru sold the Hatchback from 80 to 88.

I would start with suspension upgrades. Bigger sway-bars with good end-links make a big difference.

It depends on how much rain we get that day.

I could make the trip if it's on a Saturday. Fridays are possible but I would need to dive like a mad man.

The timing sould be set to 20 degrees before TDC. What you need to do is possition #1 TDC and Insert the distributor with the rotor pointed to #1 position. Plug the two test mode connectors together and start the engine and let it warm up. Then set the timming to 20 degrees before TDC.

How so? My info comes form various owner's manuals and FSM.

EA71 2wd 4-speed EA81 2wd Automatic EA81 4wd Automatic Front Final drive only. The Rear final drive is 3.7 and the transfer gear is 0.933

If your XT is a turbo model, you probably have a crack in the head where the exhaust runners converge in the exhaust port. Pull off the up pipe and look for a crack along the ridge in the middle of the port.

Yes What you a looking at is an almost complete tear-down of the transmission to do this.

1. No, the strut tops are different, the struts are too much shorter and the springs are a different diameter. If you want to lower the front find some 2wd front struts and springs. 2. I doubt the rear output clutch pack can handle that much power. 3. There is a bolt that's located at about the center of the torsion bar on top of the triangle shaped section. It's probably set all the way down (turned ccw as far as it will go) which is the stock ride height. You may have to clock the torsion bar like they do to increase the lift but you'll want to rotate it in the opposite direction.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/brochures-80-89.html

The cruise is ran by its own computer so I don't think the electronics will be an issue except you need to make sure the speed sensor stays connected to both the ECU and the cruise computer.

he should be paying you to take it away.

If you still have a factory center/mid pipe for your exhaust that maybe the cause of the noise. They're made with an inner and outer pieces of tube. When the inner tube rusts away it will begin rattling against the outer layer and cause similar noises under similar conditions from what you are describing.

Probably but I haven't seen it done.

There are a few of us here that do RallyX.

I'm afraid you got yourself a boat anchor bolted to your transmission.

There should be a shaft that sticks out from the torque converter that less than an inch long. It's there to keep the torque converter aligned with the crank.