el_freddo

As for the 40k miles "death" of the original spec HGs (if refitted) I can confirm this - although our vehicle is a country car, 90% of it's travelling since we got it is open road at cruising speed. So at about 80k km we've found that bloody lhs head gasket leaking coolant externally. Not. Happy. Jan. I'm aiming to have my sister (it's her car) monitor the fluid levels then replace the HGs with a new timing belt kit once near the belt change interval. Cheers Bennie

Several posts seem to be lost to the update of the forum... is this '82 running yet?? Cheers Bennie

Don't rely on the temp gauge! get an accurate aftermarket one that actually gives you a temp reading/value. If you miss the "heat spike" on the factory gauge it'll then show as running cooler than normal - because it's no good at reading the temp of steam... Job done by then too. Cheers Bennie

^ THAT is mint!! So the wolf is plugged into the Ej20G loom? Nice. Jono, I'd make the runners from the heads to the mixers longer, the theory is short runner = power in the high rev range, long runner = torque down low. Find where you want them to be is the trick. This is apparently why the old safari set up on the VWs directly above the heads made them gutless down low but pick up with a number of revs. Cheers Bennie

The input shaft shouldn't just slip out of the housing. From memory there's a big circlip holding te bearing in place, this should require some light tapping to remove it from the housing. If it slides out I'd suspect there's something wrong. Same for the input shaft and bearing, this needs to be tapped out or pressed out. I've always managed to do it with a mallet and flat end punch. Cheers Bennie

Or it's bolted into a captive nut. I've not removed one of these so really don't know for sure. Cheers Bennie

So what exactly are we trying to work out here? You're comparing two turbo box ratios that are AWD and pt4wd respectively? Or are you comparing the turbo AWD box ratios to the NA pt4wd box? i hope you're not thinking of mis-matching top and bottom gear sets to get a desired set of ratios. For the EA AWD box this is achieved using phase1 EJ AWD gear sets as I'm sure you're already aware of. Cheers Bennie

If you've changed the oil and haven't heard any rod knock you're probably in the clear there. But keep an eye on the coolant level and ensure it doesn't mix with the oil, if it does get onto it ASAP. As for the timing belt kit, change it sooner rather than later, the quality of the belt and bearings in the tensioner's are usually the issue here. They more than likely won't go the distance of the regular change interval. If your belt breaks or skips enough teeth it could cause severe internal engine damage - mashed valves and pistons. Best case scenario is only the valves bend. Cheers Bennie

Awesome when it's an easy fix like that! Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD. Looks like I ordered the dead gaskets and fitted them Cheers Bennie

Sounds awesome. Why drop the turbo ej20? Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder, those head gasket part numbers, are they Subaru part numbers? Guess what's leaking on our liberty that had it's HGs replaced early last year?? Cheers Bennie

As John said - you need the cam and crank gears from your original engine. They'll have different marks on them for the timing of spark and ignition. Swap over and set the cam belt timing correctly should see it fire up. Another thing to check first is all of your plug connections ensuring the cam and crank angle sensors are properly connected (and sensors mounted properly). Cheers Bennie

That top pulley is a tensioner. You can see how it zig zags over/around the alternator's fan belt. Best of luck with it. I reckon you'll find one after a bit of searching. A tensioner pulley from an MY with AC will fit Cheers Bennie

I've been told the pt4wd ea81 4spd is a nightmare level or two above the pt4wd ea82 5spd... The AWD boxes are so much easier to work on Cheers Bennie

Ausubaru only works for me with modzilla or an old version of internet explorer. Everything else returns a raw data error code :/ Gannon, going for a spider manifold on what? Cheers Bennie

Agreed with GD. Pull the input shaft without splitting the box will result in the little pressed metal plate falling into the gearbox. Cheers Bennie

If a valve is stuck you've probably got a bent pushrod. I reckon you might have a dead spark plug at idle. How much shaft play do you have in the dizzy's rotor shaft? Points or electronic module? Cheers Bennie

Gear ratios are a lot like fractions/imperial sizes. from memory driven gear divided by drive gear. First should be 3.454:1 - it's been a few years since I've looked into it so that could be wrong (so it'll be 3.545 if I'm wrong above). have fun. I love working on/with gearboxes. Cheers Bennie

Hey hey it's Gannon!

Any updates on this - was it the fuel tanks being the issue? Cheers Bennie

That PVC board looks sweet! Where would one look for a product like that?? (I'm going to have to work out where to find it in Oz) Cheers Bennie

From what I remember there are two different lengths for the EA82 cam cover bolts. The shorter of the two should work if I've remembered correctly. Cheers Bennie

Usually one up front and one out the back under the tray. Stick with it. These are great runners once sorted. It does seem like a carb problem and I'd also check the distributor shaft play as suggested by GD (bush replacement in dizzy). All the best with it! Cheers Bennie PS: it could also be a weak fuel pump too.

Geez that rear glass swap would've been a nerve wracking delicate operation! Has your heart rate dropped yet? Cheers Bennie