el_freddo

Did he do a compression check? This would easily identify the issue with one or two cylinders low on compression. I haven’t read the later FSM’s to notice a change in torque specs… but surely what you did would be up to the task. Seems more like this ongoing issue may have caused the dead head gasket issue providing you cleaned all the surfaces well/properly. Subarus are notorious for super clean mating surfaces when doing the HGs. To me, not that I visit mechanics often for anything more than tyres, alignments or roadworthies, the $4K job for the head gaskets from the dealer seems like a very good deal provided that includes parts and labour as a whole job! Plus it’s not a new to you vehicle so you know a bit of its history. Ask for the compression test or do one yourself to see what’s up and if the dealer’s mechanic is on point. Cheers Bennie

I had an issue with my EJ22 converted L series - I swapped out the following all at once so can’t tell you what solved it. It was super painful to start and when it started it would barely idle and would fluctuate too. When driving it was definitely in a limp mode, not all the ponies were in the stables with these codes! I had codes for the temp sensor, throttle position sensor and O2 sensor from memory (this was 2010!). Actually, I made a video of it at the time I hope that helps out, I know this is the Gen1 EJ22E, but it’s not too much different to the Gen2 EJ22E. Cheers Bennie

So you’re dropping a phase 1 engine into a phase 2 vehicle? How will you bolt the intake manifold on? NA and turbo phase 1 are different to each other; phase 2 NA and turbo intake bolt patterns are the same but different to phase 1. The EJ202 with the computer mounted on the back of the engine has two marks on the cam wheel “3hrs” apart from each other. I can’t tell you how they’re orientated atm in relation to the cam timing mark without looking at it. This crank timing cog at a quick glance is the same between EJ202 na and EJ205 turbo. And as for eating my words, smothered in dark rum is best Cheers Bennie

I just checked for a cam angle sensor on the EJ202 I’m messing around with and there does not seem to be any plug in the wiring for a cam angle sensor, nor do I recall removing a cam angle sensor from this engine as there isn’t one, but the hole for it was open to the back of the cam wheel, no cover or plug. I hope this helps mate! Cheers Bennie

The EJ18 and smaller only had the crank sensor. All EJ20 engines phase 1 or 2 had cam angle sensors afaik. Where did this engine come from without the cam angle sensor, is it actually an EJ20 or are you assuming it is because it’s in a model that was EJ20 from factory? Or has someone pilfered the cam angle sensor for some reason? Cheers Bennie

Subarino lift?? It’s going to be awesome! I was pestering him for a three inch but I doubt he’ll ever do it, or I’ll ever actually go through with it anyway, I’d rather get his 5 stud conversion once it’s sorted, I’m about 90% there with the kit, I just need a couple of key pieces. Anyway, that project is on the back burner for now. Cheers Bennie

Hehehe those DL headlights are so 80’s! It’s as if the L series was trying Romero the delorean dream alive Cheers Bennie

^ agreed! It’s awesome rocking up to your old school car and open it with a remote! Cheers Bennie

Just keep the old incandescent globe in for the charge light, easy job! To help spread the light you might also need to rough up the tip of the LEDs to help with dispersing the light. Swap the LEDs in, fit the cluster back in the car and rest at night. It’ll take a few goes to get all the LEDs the right way around and to reduce hot spots. From memory I used a small dob of white out on the tip of the LED - I can’t remember if this stayed or if I scrubbed them off. It’s all trial and error! Nothing to lose with this mod! Cheers Bennie

That swing arm fabrication is awesome! Very neat and look like it’ll more than do the job! And wow, that salt is NUTS! I’m glad that in Australia it’s illegal to salt roads in our alpine area, it’s a small area that’s also in a very sensitive environment so salt is a no-go. Our Alpine area is not home to millions of ppl commuting etc either, it’s utilised for recreation skiing. Some Australians don’t even realise it snows I this country! I’m lucky to have worked at lived at Hotham Heights for two seasons. My favourite thing to was drive on snow packed roads - it’ll be something I may never get to experience again. On the EZ, weird they’d sell it as a complete engine without the throttle body! There’s a massive array of drive by wire throttle bodies available out there these days. I’d probably pick one that you know will be on the market for a long time that’s easily available. As for the plugs, got a self serve parts yard over your way to grab your own? Other option is to re-plug the engine loom to match an aftermarket ECU setup if you go down that path. Cheers Bennie

Seriously, you have to ask this?? Only an insane person would fix the EA! Since the EJ and box is almost plug and play in this instance why wouldn’t you?! Cheers Bennie

What happens when you apply 12v directly to the starter wire pin? A common issue on the EJ vehicles was the starter circuit not being strong/good enough to crank the starter motor properly. The trick was to add a relay that gave the starter the full 12v at the starter wire pin. That said, have you checked the condition of your fusible links? And what is the condition/age of your battery leads/cables? Cheers Bennie

I’ve seen that, forgot about it actually (I’m the next to reply on the next page!). It probably runs the EA82 gearbox too, but we’ll never know now I guess. If it has the stock EJ gearbox it’s probably one of the only ones out there like this, certainly a rarity! It’s Cheers Bennie

Sweet work on that billet hub! Ditch the bearing to help reduce unsprung weight! Seriously, you could make a set of aluminium billet hubs and carry the steel billet hubs as back up if one cracks out bush. Best R&D there is. Cheers Bennie

Because no one does that!! Cheers Bennie

We don’t get vents or scoops on NA models over here so I don’t know if they’re plugged or have air ducting under them. Vents would probably help dispel some heat as they would help with creating a Venturi effect at speed which would help with creating the low pressure zone you want in the engine bay to draw air through the radiator. Plugging the scoop would help too I reckon if it’s not ducted already. Cheers Bennie

Definitely leave the black or colour code it to the body colour for the vents and bonnet scoop! Painting them gold will, as @slammo said, look tacky! Steer clear of that at all cost! I love the fuel tank guard. I can’t see any other mount points other than those two forward bolts. It would also be a good way to help stabilise the rear subframe too. Keep up the good work and the pics Cheers Bennie

As in EJ18? Same heads so I don’t see why not! Id take an EJ18 dizzy and shove it on an EJ22E without thinking twice about it if I were doing something like this setup. Cheers Bennie

They’re good for WOT sounds with a decent exhaust fitted. You spent more time there than you would in an STi Cheers Bennie

Now to work out what’s dead in the factory system and revert back to it for the built in fuel cut safety system in the event of a crash occurring. Glad to hear you’re mobile again though! Cheers Bennie

Hence why I like the old stuff that doesn’t beep or require a button for the park brake or to start the engine! Cheers Bennie

I’d run a 15amp if it were me. You could try a ten amp and see what happens… Cheers Bennie

PT4wd 5spd or EA AWD 5spd, the mods and mounting requirements are the same! There’s more than one way to do the 5spd conversion in regards to mounting - after all, it’s two gearbox mounts that are modified to fit the 5spd. The tailshaft will need to be lengthened or use the two piece with the centre bearing mounted to the floor pan of the MY. I’m not sure if shift linkages need to be modded to fit, memory (from reading) says not, just a mount to the floor pan at the base of the shift lever like the L series had. If you go the AWD box your diff stubs will be 25 spline. Your brat has the smaller 23 spline diff stubs. Cheers Bennie

The OEM plastic end tanks only crack due to age or when in a crash that’s significant enough to do the damage, at which point many radiators would do the same thing anyway. Cool pics! Can’t wait to see the end product. How many hours in machining there already? Cheers Bennie

From memory Phinzina was working on this with an adaptor plate. I can’t find the thread I think I remember him writing about it on offroadingsubarus… I think it’s a case of make a plate that fits between the head and the dizzy that’s oil-tight an allow for timing adjustment. Or do what Silverbullet Sam did and make that electronic timing system that runs the ignition timing. Im looking forward to see what you come up with! Cheers Bennie