ivans imports

I do most headgaskets between 130000kms to 265000kms some go higher have a 01 outback i bought last week has 295000kms never been apart leaking oil but no preshure in rad and no coolant leaking. Milage donest seem to matter as mutch as how the car was taken care of and if it had any time sitting. The headgaskets seem to go more on cars that are not used every day the coolant gets old or corodes but the ones that sitt around blow gaskets. The ones that never stop seem to last . At any rate make shure you have somone look at car and check for leaks on ds lower coner of head seam any oil leaking means money having to be spent cheers

Bent parts can be very diffacult to find and time consuming glad you found it

I killed standard after standard burned out ceramic clutches riped out low ranges broke shafts ect putt in automatic never problems agian is only way to hold 300+ hp standard just shatter. And I abuse the crap outa my trans. The tough truck event I did was jumping buggy 6ft in the air landing with all 4 tires at full rpms broke one rear axle but trans no problem. And holding it at line at 3800 on stall with brakes locked up the trans temp comes up but havent overheated it yet. I use a tubular cooler is about 2ft long and finned all the way round. The auto trans is tough have broken a cupple diffs but from stoping with tires locked on dry pavment but trans unit seems bullet proof

Havent gone looking for NA harness yet you will get there or loose all your hair lol

The ecvt is a funny little buggr but first check drive shaft ujionts the powder clutch is off on type so doubt it whould cause shudder the addjustment of throttle kick down is important but would just change shift rpms not cause shudder. Check the ps side axle were the axle gose to the diff on front they get very loose were it gos on trans i glue the stub onto trans when i install them and i put a thick 0ring between axle output shaft and cv to tigthen them up Glue it on with sillacone keeps it from sloping out

I got a nice ea81 to poor wittle motor has no car !

Had a 01 outback with a broken wire harness under intake kept giving tps code over and over sensers had been changed 3 times I changed intake wire harness and problem was gone and did not come back

Feul pump PU screen pluged or water in feul or MAF

i got some realy cool toyota rim spacers 2 inch thick with there own studs bolt to my hub the tire bolts to them needed them to get the 4 toyota calipers top clear on race buggy not shure if road leagal or not

Have seen them hitt 16-20 volts anything over 15 ecu and curits start protecting themselfs but dont rule out under hood fuse box my 98 impreza had 4 broken wires on bottom of fuse box under hood

Buyer beware and i totaly think its worth whatever it cost to have a exp tech check car out for you I charge 40 $ to checkout car and is worth every penny. Find all that little stuff you whould not think about and can get a good look under the car. Even if it cost 120 $ still worth it when one small repiar can cost 1000 $ at least gives you power to negotiate and a report on car from tech gos along way .

drive shaft ujiont ?

with 2100 stall engine is not in power band / torque curve at 3000 or better getting closer meaning you can hold engine at 3000 rpms while tires barly move. For me i use it to get engine boosted before launch so when i whack it with 120 shot of nos the engine has enuff rpms/boost to eat it and not stall or break.

Sounds like a bad diode in alt change alt also check for corodedwires in bottom of under hood fuse box have been seeing problems there latly

pluged rad or radfan senser try taking end tank of rad and cleaning it or replace rad. Or headgasket starting to go

First thing check for any headgasket leaks if oil leaking / coolant. knock 2500-3000 off the price has timing belt been done ? service history? any motor work been done ? how dose the car work ect dealer like to hide problems to sell cars. So if you dont ask they will not tell and watch out for cars that are super clean or deatailed under hood trying to hide somthing ?

They are cast but have been able to gentaly weld them back togther if cracked have a pile of good ones here i save those

Check for damaged spring broken lowest spring wrap ? have had many bad springs as of late on that model

Titen oil cooler but most likly headgasket leaking and runing down from above

Check wire harness at rear of car ps side were the valves plugin likes to break there

High stalls came in 89-92 legacy and 90-97 imprezas is 2800 stall outback 95-00 is 2100 stall i sent out a 90 legacy torque and had it redone they got it up to 3800 stall I was hoping for 4000-4500 but 3800 was a big inprovment useing the 4.44 gears from a 98 outback with case and ceter from 90 legacy with direct line preshure to awd pack 0 valveing or soilinionds. This trany has had 5 years of hard raceing / offroading on it and no problems. Other than some fillter ishues coating came off the pan ended up in fillter.

Funny thig is the only 2.5ds i see problems with bottom end are ones that have already been taken apart and worked on. The ones that have never been apart bottom ends are mostly good

So glad i live in the land of 0 smog testing

Well lets see rocks roots hills why slow down i get your point if you want it to do that you need a 4eat with high stall the race buggy can idle along at the point were tires are just barly moving as slow as you want tons of power in reserve and hills no problem as touque converter holds car at whatever rpms you want. On a rock crawler i whould only use auto. On trail bashing offroad car 5 speed DR all the way. You just cant beat a auto when it comes to going slow

Standard / auto same same The stock gaskets have a rivit hole on top were gasket is exsposed replacment ones do not. I whould not use a glass beaded head ever as it is almost imposibble to get all sand out and can damage a bottom end. the startup bottom end diagnosis is how long exactly in millaseconds it takes for oil light to go out on cold startup this is my best diagnostic tool for bottom end a good 2.5d 1-2 milaseconds a bad one 4-6 a realy bad one 1-2 seconds. And any knocking before light gos out bad nosie that stops when oil light gos out