Subaru Scott

Get a gas can and find out! Unless you're parking it in a climate-controlled garage, fill the tank first or condensation will have a field day in your empty tank.

Way back in the mid-80s, when I was driving 70s Subarus, there were NO aftermarket axles at all! No one had heard of CV joints at that time, and therefore never bothered to check, or address torn boots. The dealer wanted $300 per joint. I could't afford that, and I worked there! I can remember being overjoyed, after going through 2 or 3 sets from the boneyard, to finally find some that didn't click. Then they stayed good for the rest of the cars lives.

If they ain't clickin', they ain't broke!

As long as the tubing is black, it will soak up the heat. If you build a thin box around it with a white or reflective bottom and lexan cover, you can substantially increase output, especially in cooler weather. I do recall seeing an example where a guy mounted a truck radiator in his attic with an electric fan which worked quite well. But that’s air to water, not direct solar.

Is the heater core hooked up? And if so, check to make sure it's not stopped up. The engine needs that circuit to flow in order for the thermostat to operate properly.

I've almost done this a couple of times. Had my eye on the 1/2" black poly pipe that's used for underground service runs. Super cheap, like 25 bucks for 100' roll at Lowes. Then just lay it down in a big spiral, and secure it with a few dabs of construction adhesive.

Crank pulley torque is 130 ft. lbs. Same as a lug nut on a 3/4 ton pickup truck. Yeah, seen many where someone used the "starter trick" to get it loose and don't have the special tool, or know how to hold the engine to get it tight enough. The pulleys come loose and even destroy the crankshaft sometimes. If you don't have a pulley tool, there are holes in the side of the bellhousing where you can insert a punch or screwdriver to catch the flywheel. If it's a manual trans, just put it in 5th, and have someone stand on the brakes.

You're lucky you can still hear pinging. That's how I used to tune everything. Too many years playing in rock & roll bands, now I have to use a timing light! 108 is still way cooler than 190. Cut the hoses off the intake. Trust me.

That's a great looking radiator! I'll have to see if it's available in the states. The small coolant hoses going to the intake are for heating it, not cooling. It's to prevent carb icing in the winter. Probably not something you have to worry about. Just disconnect all that and plug it off.

So the red and black rubber are actually different seal configurations, and not just different material? I did not know that.

Those trailing arms look pretty good. I would definitely be interested. Is the car that got totaled gone? I will be needing the rear crossmember and mustache bar as well.

The EA71 is a very, very reliable engine. If it's been resealed, it should go for many years with only oil changes and occasional tune-ups. I would concentrate on eradicating any rust, and then a decent paint job. Then start talking to upholstery shops. Try to find one with experience and passion for old cars, then go as wild as you want with the interior. I wouldn't recommend trying to source original interior pieces. Even if you could find some still in ok condition, they probably wouldn't stay that way for long. Too many years.

You will always have 12v at the light. The switches ground the light to turn it on. So, you have a leak to ground after the bulb. Could be at the manual switch, the hatch switch, or something has worn or cut through the wires insulation.

Well, at least you've narrowed down several components that aren't the problem. Did you change the ignitor? If you were close, I'd come by with my test light. I love these kinds of mysteries! No really.

OOops, sorry, I had this confused with another thread.

Would this be your recommendation for any EJ22?

I’m looking for a 4wd rear suspension. I realize the shipping will be expensive, but there just isn’t anything in this corner of the country. Also looking for a steering wheel to make an adapter with, so any old wheel as long as the splines aren’t stripped out.

Take the metal EGR pipe off, cut it off about 3 inches from where it threads into the valve, hammer the cut end flat, fold it over, and hammer the fold flat. Done

Nice writeup suBowen!

Welcome aboard! Do you use an engine heater when it gets that cold? When I lived in Indiana, I used the ones that went inline in the lower radiator hose. They would always start without it in sub-zero temps, I just liked to have heat when I first got in!

Well, sorry guys. Just came home to mine delivered and it's the carb kit too. Made by a Walker company with the same part number. I knew it had to be a mistake... just not the one I was hoping for. Sent an email, so we'll see what they'll do tomorrow. I'm sure returning is no problem, just hoping for a deal on the exhaust, if they actually have that. We can claim false advertising, but don't know how far that will get. And yes, as DaveT sez, just get new studs. They are still available at the dealer, although the part number for first and second gen is NLA, just get them for a newer model. I think the newer ones are just slightly longer, but same size otherwise. Don't understand why no one at Subaru has figured this out and just superseded the part number...

Get, or make a catch-can for your PCV system.

Looking good, enjoy!!

Too far for me, sorry. But lucky for you, that you won't have to find out how much beer I can drink! Just get it up on 4 decent jackstands, and you'll have plenty of room. Then rent a transmission jack. You could make do with a floor jack assisted by a couple ratchet straps to steady it. But for a first-timer, make it easy on yourself.

Thanks for sharing your adventures! I really love your stub shaft seal sleeve mod, that's definitely thinking outside the box!