GeneralDisorder

Do a search on the board for "axle dissasembly" There is an excelent post about it from Edrach - detailing all the tools you'll need, and the entire procedure. I would post the URL, but people need to learn to do the search function :-) GD

Depends on the quality of the split boot, and how it's installed. We (US ARMY) use split boots all the time on the bigger trucks. Hummer's don't use them, but duece's and 5 tons do. One thing we discovered on those - they have a zipper for the split, and it's best to cover the whole zipper on the outside with RTV - keeps them from unzipping, and keeps the dirt out. GD

81 Brat's had the EA81, so it can be done. I think the engine mounts are different? Could probably get those from a dealer tho - just ask for '81 Brat mounts..... GD

axle grease in the eye! LOL GD

Some pumps just make noise - doesn't mean it's going out. I know a chevy astro that's like that - you can hear it through the floor - and that pump is brand new as of like two weeks ago - I helped install it (what a bitch BTW). Aren't the VW / Audi ones in the tank? I remeber my friend had a problem where the stator on the pump motor went out, and he would have to smack the fuel tank to get the pump to start turning again..... pretty funny when you think about it. GD

I think he's refering to the flasher unit - the part that actually does the flashing. Not the switch in the column. I don't know where it is exactly.... GD

Depends on what kind of flexible line you run, but no matter what I would say you will notice a much spongier feel to the brakes. The rubber will expand and contract, and you won't get nearly as much braking force with flexible lines. You could use stainless steel braided lines, but that would be WAY more expensive than hard line, and still not as good. For short runs (the shorter the better) the expansion of the rubber is acceptable, but the longer the run, the more "sponge" you will feel in the pedal. And I'm sure tha flareing brake line is like any other job - if you have the right tool (not a cheapo one), then it becomes much easier, and probably less time consuming than you think. GD

That would be neat! Although useing the Brat has challenges as far as the US military are concerned. Everything we have is 24 volt, and deisel. Besides that - a Brat simply has no role to fill in the military - the hummer does everything a Brat does (possible exception bieng top speed), and can haul 1.25 tons. Not to mention the fact that there's armored versions... etc, etc. And can you beat the price GM sells them for? A new hummer (last time I checked) started at about $18,000 for the military version. And I'm curious as to what we (in the US) would gain from haveing them built in russia? We couldn't register them to drive here in the states cause they won't pass safety standards for their year of manufacture. (BTW - that's probably a part of why they stopped selling them here in 87..... that, and not enough sales to warrant a re-design). Other countries with less safety standards kept getting them till around 94 near as I can find out. Although I must admit having a source of sheet metal for our old cars would be cool. GD

yep - or 4 x 5 1/2" I say this cause when you modify toyota 6 lug wheels, you use 6 x 5 1/2" rims, and drill out the missing two holes. And if you want some rims - just get a 1/2" drill, and a bit the size of your lugs, and drill out some chevy or toyota 6 lugs. It's easy. I believe the stock offset is near zero, but I have no actual data to this effect. GD

for your EA82, you will just have to run the clutch cable, since the accelerator, and the brake are already there (brake is not cable operated). And I think you will need the manual transmission cross-member as well. At least they were different from manual / automatic on the EA81's, so there's a good chance. GD

No - they won't "fit", they are different. But you can probably get aftermarket ones that are adjustable. GD

He doesn't make a 4/4 lift, and the 4/3 is about $375 according to the last time I saw his web site. Don't quote me on that tho, as he could change his price anytime he wants I'm sure. GD

Dude - that totally sucks. I'm sorry. GD

Hey vovo boy - the bracket he is refering to doesn't exist on the automatics, and the 2WD's. You'll have to get one from a 4WD. Just drill the welds off, and it comes right out. That's what I did... GD

Yeah - that might be cool. On the power windows - you will probably need the power window stuff from a hatch.... I don't think I've ever seen a hatch with power windows. Not sure they even made them. Sedans, and Wagons I have seen... and I think a coupe too. There's a power window controller too (ECU), and a whole bunch of wiring and relays and stuff. Not sure about the 29th, but maybe the 4th GD

EA81 ECU's are only found on the feedback carburator models (those with california emmissions). All of these have a hitachi carb, but the hitachi also came on regular non-ECU type cars. I have both types on my cars. The business with the throttle cable you saw was the cruise control system. It's not ECU controlled as far as I know. There is a seperate cruise control unit I believe. Does your car need an ECU or something? I've never heard of one dying before. GD

Oh - and I know this isn't a gen 2 poll - but theres thousands of those just in Oregon I'm sure - probably 10's of thousands in Washington. GD

I would say a LOT more than your numbers. Hundreds, possibly thousands across the whole US. I still see 70's stuff driving around here in the Pac. NW every now and then. I know there's a guy about 10 minutes from me with a camo painted 70's 4WD wagon. And I've seen several other's just here in Portland, driving around town. Washington has quite a few more than OR does for some reason, and there's plenty that come up on ebay all the time. Gen 1 Brat's are more rare than Gen 2, but I still see those. I've probably seen more than 50 Gen 1 cars driving down the road in Oregon in the last 5 years. I would also say that there are probably more licensed, running 1960's subaru's than 50 in the US. There's TONS of restored 360's I have seen on the web. I mean - they aren't terribly plentiful, but they do show up on ebay completely restored from time to time. GD

where DO you get those mud terrains? GD

Ok - I'm curious - assuming of course that the 6" lift is built strong enough, what is *bad* about haveing 2 more inches? I don't intend to off-road my Brat, but I'm strongly considering a 6" lift for it - simply for looks. I too think the 6" looks nice - it's a good height for the length of the Brat. That said, I also think the 4/3 lift looks nice - especially with a bobbed tail - that brings the length more in line with the hieght and gives it that mean look. GD

I found a bolt with the same thread, and the right shape head, but was too long, so out came the dremel, and my tailgate is now secure! Thanks for remembering about that tho. GD

Sounds more like it would move the tranny back... or the engine forward. Doing that before the tranny would make the car a tractor I would think. Basically would break your RPM's in half, so to do 75 in my wagon, I would have to run 4th gear at 8000 RPM's. Needless to say it would make freeway driving impossible. GD

Pull your ball joints out and check them. Check the lower control arm bushings maybe? Wheel Bearings? I think I would probably just tear one side of the suspension down, and see what is in there.... something is wore out. GD

Hey sweet - I've got a couple of those pins lying around here.... although you should probably grab a pedal from the JY if the hole in that is messed up too. GD

I did get your email - just have been awful busy the last few days. Glad to hear you got in touch with him. GD