
ballitch
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Everything posted by ballitch
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if your talking about the twin turbo wrx motor from japan, no it will not fit unless you do some serious mods to the steering system, second turbo is in way of steering shaft and some other stuff. however, if your really looking for a corvette-smoking-combo, you could always throw in a EJ25, the 2.5 liter with DOHC, and get a AVO turbo kit for it, oyu'll only run 6 punds with the kit, but you can get more with corresponding mods, you could easily get STI power levels, or you could wait and look for a wrecked STI, forester XT, or 05' or newer Legacy GT, all have the 2.5 liter DOHC turbo motors, obviously the STI has the bigger turbo and best internals, but few and far between are you going to find a wrecked one. going to have to buy the whole car and swap stuff over. but the imprezza chassis you have would probably do best with some suspension mods and bigger brakes, and just a plain-jane EJ22, oe EJ25.
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more like woohoo no more understeer!!!!!!!!
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tires wearing on the inside
ballitch replied to avatar382's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
good question beat me to it. -
more ea82 motor probs!!!
ballitch replied to dragonwingsubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
is it making any funny sounds other than the ticking? I ran into a concrete block once and punctured the "Y"-pipe and made car run like crap, check underneath the car around the exhaust and all the way back to the muffler, might find your problem under the car. my thoughts. ~Josh~ -
A swap meet eh..........that is a slendid idea, its time for me to get rid of my EA82 engine parts anyway. ~Josh~
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If im not mistaken, subaru puts the same tranny in the 2.2, 2.5, and the 3.0L versions of their motors, so your tranny should be just fine, unless you start pulling the E-brake and tow it with the wheels on the ground. But if you are truly worried about your tranny, dont do too many mods to the motor. ~Josh~
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That is superior ghetto-fab skillz right there my friend. I say, if it connects car to motor, and it bends like that, you NEED to have it. subaru put it there for a darn good reason. Some 1/8'' wall, 1/2'' steel tubing would be just about indestructable for a pitch stopper. ~Josh~
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the 4 speed is a nice tranny, its just not made to handle the power that an EJ18 or EJ22 can put out, the 5 speed D/R is used in turbo RX's, with different gearing mind you, but still same design tranny, you could put in the 4 speed, but the 5 speed has better gearing for highway and city, dont know the figures for the low range. but for the most part, the 4 speed just cant handle the power, you MIGHT be able to get away with using a EJ18, 110 horsepower instead of the EJ22's 130 or so. but that is up to you, and how many tranny you want to go thru before you change your mind, better to do it right the first time, even if it takes you twice as long. ~Josh~
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EA82T Behind the Flywheel
ballitch replied to froggymike's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
How does one acquire said FUJI Bond? Is that a dealer-only item or can the average sube-junkie get ahold of it. If its good enough to seal the two halves of subaru blocks together, it will work for just about anything. ~Josh~ -
hell you CAN fit a SVX motor in it if you want to, you just have to move the radiator to the trunk is all. or you COULD throw in a XT-6 motor, with an adapter to mate your tranny to the XT-6 motor, lots of things you could do, just depends on how nuts you really are, how much money you really want to spend, and how much your wife will put up with...lol ~Josh~
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well mine was done, until i decided to do it the right way and have the flywheel machined and use XT-6 pres. plate and clutch disc, flywheel is still in the machine shop. do it right the first time, cant stress that enough. wiring, not a huge ordeal for me, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! and now the motor is leaking oil, i think from the oil pan gasket, but ill do some prev. maint. that is over due. definately worth every penny to do this conversion, screw getting a turbo EA-82 or high-comp EA-82, go EJ22, last forever, and parts are just about as cheap as EA-82 parts.................. ~Josh~
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awe yes the infamous turbo-offroad question, if you want low end torque for getting out of sticky situations, go N/A, if you do lots of higher speed things, like rally, rallycross or stuff like that, use turbo. cold shocking is also something to think about as stated before, but usually, if you do most of your driving on city streets, might as well get turbo, for those that adventure offroad more often than most, use N/A. anytime your below 3k rpm's or whenever your turbo would spool up, your not seeing much positive manifold pressure(boost). so the low end grunt lost because of the lower compression ratio of the turbo motor is not beneficial enough to use turbo. that is my opinion, some my find different results, i say EJ22 it baby!!!!!!!! ~Josh~
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not to mention morganm, finding a way to make the damn thing have spark, without a disty..........
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i say torque the heades down to factory spec, and re-torque them, thats what ive been told to do with alum. block/head motors. remember, even though the heads and block are both aluminum, doesnt meen that they will expand and contract at the same time, no two pieces of aluminum are the same. hope this helps. ~Josh~
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are you trying to put EJ22 headers on a EA82? if so, then no, the headers will not work, heads are farther apart on EJ22 motors, and some EJ22's have single or dual port exhaust. i used the stock EA82 headers/Y-pipe for my conversion, just bent the "Y" part out about an inch or so and cut one side, and added a piece of pipe to make it fit, you can use aftermarket headers for your conversion, or you could use the stock EJ22 header, i cut the weld off the "Y" pipe and gutted the inside, now only have one CAT instead of two. if you use the EA82 header, the pipe diameter is a little smaller than the EJ22 header pipe diameter, I think. if that is true, good for me, i wanted my torque down at lower RPM's anyway, you might not want that. remember your going to need to plumb in a 02 sensor, i plumbed mine in where the two pipes go into the "Y" pipe, right where the EJ o2 sensors are located, before the cat convertor. ~Josh~
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ya the outback has a 18mm rear sway bar stock, the plain-jane legacies only have 14mm stock in the rear, help counteract the merciless understeer that awd gives us. as far as struts and springs, the outback i believe does have like 2'' longer strut/spring combo, and might be a bit stiffer too. ~Josh~
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Looking at 2.2 swap parts on Friday, have some questions
ballitch replied to AKIRA's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
if that guy qouted you only $140 for ecu, motor, and wiring harness, i would wait, i spent $520 on those three things alone, granted my motor was in perfect running condition and not questionable at all. the guy at kennedy didnt give me a hard time when i emailed him and got the info for the EJ22-Vanagon conversion, dont even mention putting it into another subaru. as subarino said use any type of MPFI EFI fuel pump, the external kind, a breeze to wire up, i wired mine up to a toggle switch so i can cut fuel in a hurry if need be. if you decide to go the DIY route on clutch stuff cool, your going to need the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disc, and new throwout and pilot bearings, best take your EA82 flywheel to mudrat and ask for the XT6 spec grind, well worth it, im going to do that once i get the flywheel off the motor, do all this while motor is out of car. go to G.I. Joes, get the flexible type radiator hoses, get a 15'' and a 17''-18'' one, with 1 1/4'' I.D. i beleive, the longer one goes on the bottom, it will take some muscle to get the motor side of the radiator hoses on, use a soap/water solution, helps alot. i suggest fabbing up some sort of a pitch stopper for the motor,i used one from a legacy and made a bracket to go onto motor. run some grounding cables from motor to chassis, and tranny to chassis. if i were you, i would get a 5 speed D/R tranny, better gearing and takes more power abuse than the 4 speed, if it'll work in a RX turbo, itll work for an EJ22. and dont try to cut any corners on the wiring, TAKE YOUR TIME, cant stress that enough. good luck. ~Josh~ -
2.2 for $750 does that sound good
ballitch replied to slipspeedy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
for the whole motor, complete car harness and ecu, no way. i got my motor for $400, ecu for $40, and car harness for $80, from ebay, and the board, no way would i pay over $600 for all that, just go to a U-Pull-It and bring stuff up to counter and ask what they want for all of it, if they give you outrageous number, leave the stuff right there and walk right the hell out of there, go somewhere else. try to get a motor that hasnt been sitting very long and was running when they took it out. no telling why that junkyard car was in the junkyard to begin with, if your willing to take the risk, go ahead, it might be okay, you just dont know for sure. that price also depends on supply/demand, not really a demand for the subaru 2.2 liter, the last production cars to use it were made before 2001. you might keep your eyes out for someone doing an EJ25 or EJ20 swap into an imprezza, could snag it for cheap, i got my motor from someone that put an SVX motor into a 2 door imprezza. good luck. ~Josh~ -
you could always use the stock EJ22 intake manifold as a template, use 3/8'' steel plate for the base plate, and use some 1/4'' round stock for the intake runners, bend with mandrel and custom make a housing for the carbs to sit on, then attach the runners to it. might need to look and see if the stock intake manifold gaskets will seal aluminum block to new-fab steel intake. that would be my first plan of action, then figure something out to ignite the darn thing........anyone got any ideas? or, if you know someone that can weld alum. oyu could just cut out where the throttle body goes and cut the runners a bit and make a "box" for the carbs to sit on. or just plain buy one carb, make a cap for the throttle body on the intake, cut top off of intake manifold, not on the intake runner part though, and make another "cap/adapter" out of aluminum for the ONE carb to sit on. okay, im done. ~Josh~
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most of the wires coming out of the ecu are to run the motor, be careful, dont start cutting things, you really NEED to do research and label the wires on the ecu plugs. there are many sensors that go to different parts of the wire harness and then back to the ecu and crap like that, one of my engine sensor wires went from motor to Cruise control unit to ecu, or something like that, there is no easy way around it. its best to unravel as much of the harness as possible on a sheet of plywood or a concrete floor. the real bummer is you only end up using about 10% of the car harness to power the motor, a big waste, so if you think you cut some wires you shouldn't have and have not much of a harness to speak of, youre probably okay. just take your time and triple check everything, it will pay off in the end. and add some more grounds from motor to chassis. ~Josh~
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sounds awesome dude, if i were closer i would help. all you have to do is take the wire loom off the wiring, and look in a FSM or haynes or somethign with a wiring diagram, and label the wires on the ecu side, and follow them till they go to no where, or go to something you dont need, like power brakes or A/C or whatever, took me about 45-50 hours to get my wiring done with some help. hope you get her running the first try like me, and remember to put the ignitor on the right way, unlike my first time. ~Josh~
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try this site http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html i use it to day dream every week, it should be close to what actual tires sizes for cars are. ~Josh~
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if your not to set on the 2.5 you can give CCR inc. a call or e-mail and say you want a rebuilt 2.2 litre, or you could get another rebuilt 2.5, if your attached to the power it has over the 2.2. realistically, you dont know when you HG is going to blow, it could just be a heat related leak, when engine warms up it leaks, when it cools down, leak isnt there, like my old EA82, or it could be bad, i say change coolant and oil more often until you have made your decision on what you want to do with this situation. if you change your oil like every 1000 miles from now on, you have a lower chance of having a bearing robbed of oil, remember to also consider a HG replacement, get the new new ones that have titanium filaments in them, supposed to get rid of the leak, and have the heads checked for cracks and warpage. cost for both options are about the same, new engine vs. HG replacement, unless you do the work yourself, its not to hard really, dont think its not going to be difficult though, read up and get some "homework" done and see what your options are for you. if you need help, you know where to go. ~Josh~
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Wrong Axle??!!What now?? HELP!
ballitch replied to 91 loyale in Syr's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
it sounds to me like your getting free parts, and possibly free labor out of this deal. ~Josh~