Scott in Bellingham

heres the car https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1694996420725919&set=a.1694996414059253.1073741841.100006467321842&type=1 https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/s480x480/10606355_1694996427392585_69599585287450966_n.jpg?oh=e01dbeba6d5ba17422b84e55cecb2698&oe=55CF699A

Browns camp is a nice place in NW OR

I like to bob the rear on the wagon on a committed offroader, easy to do removes a lot of weight and gives a better departure angle, my present lightened soobie has no stock glass and rear bobbed and no stock doors a bar with sheetmetal you jump over , really makes a difference OH and add a EJ22 that makes a big difference, Ive done the dash removale route and didn't like it, it just didn't feel the same driving the car with loose wires and sheetmetal in front of me

yes, I moved everything forward 2 or 3" on both the silver bobbed wagon and my red sedan And when you make the strut extensions you build it into them , you keep all the stock geometry just bring it forward,

I had the same problem from grass, we spent the weekend driving threw tall grass and it ended up doin the same thing kept the pressure plate from fully closing and slipt

3"YOU will need a complete lift kit found here www.sjrlift.com . the struts will only get 1-1-1/2"

235 /75-15s fit

I have basic lettering at different heights and few subaru emblems , other stuff I can make from a drawing or picture

cast up a few rear diff drop plates, $40 shipped , can do custom ones with your name or logo email me at sjrwa@yahoo.com https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1784511805107713&l=db7e3db736

I redrill hubs 6 bolt and the common 4 bolts see here www.sjrlift.com

rear diff support (mustache bar) is held to the body with 4 bolts, just add a 1" spacer between the body and bar mount like a length of 1x 1-1/2 tubing with 2 holes in it, on the front is similar same tubing between engine crossmember and body, will need longer bolts also will need a longer steering knuckle

looks like a 2" lift, all suspension , you can drop the rear of the rear diff 1" at the mustache bar, also drop the engine crossmember 1" that will help with the axle angle

all the new alloy lifts will be my present standard like the steel lifts

Its been 10 since years I started up SJR originally SJRLIFT, my first car I lifted was a red and silver 88 EA82 GL Wagon make a Alloy Aluminum Lift kit for it. well to help celebrate my companies 10 yr anniversary Im bringing back my Original alloy kits , some of you may remember them or even still have one on your car, Ill be posting more details soon and show them at my site www.sjrlift.com, along with this year Ill be introducing some new Alloy products as I develop them , in the works are, Weber to Subaru carb intake adapters, cool artsy rear diff drops, 1 Piece a-arm/tranny lift block to prevent captive nut tear out, also will offer personalized artwork and lettering on the alloy parts you order from me so you can customize your parts with your own logo art or lettering Scott

Gen1 rear suspension

Let's see some pictures of the lift blocks and axle angles, on a 6 in lift should have 4-5 in blocks on the engine and rear diff

Luv it, Good work !

lets see what you came up with

use all stock EA82 parts , you just need a redrilled flywheel and a adapter , I sell them here www.sjrlift.com Scott

I provide this service at www.sjrlift.com a normal drill will not work, I recommend a endmill

let us know your finding, I like the idea of more low end

I went up it in the summer, used the winch at the egg rock, next time I go would like to go up in the mud

the tread on those Bias tires are so deep, just matters what your going to do with it, deep big cleats are awesome if most your miles are on the road Id go Radial

Im out got a Family Chritmas thing

Ill see what I can do