lmdew

You might get lucky with no bent valves. Most likely a frozen up geared idler pulley. Only way to tell is to pull the timing covers. You will need to pull all 3 to get a full picture, but pulling just the outside 2 covers will give you a hint of what happened. You can fix the problem, hang a new timing belt and turn it over by hand to make sure its not significant damage. If it checks good, start it up and listen to it. You can do a compression check and or check the exhaust for signs of bent valves or worst.

There is a special tool to lock them. Without that, the best way is to run an old chunk of tbelt around the cam and crank pulleys and clamp them together in the middle with a vise grips. Works for torquing the bolt as well. Was your water pump leaking? They don't fail often. If it was an overheat problem, read up on Head Gasket failures.

I think the length is different. If you have one, it's easy to check, just jack up the rear get it on jack stands and then try the drive shaft you have. Slide it into the trans, see if the mid bearing bolts up. Bolt it to the rear dif. It will either work or not. If not, you will see what you need. Yes torque bind is likely!

Pretty easy swap, just take the 95 2.2 intake manifold, complete with the harness and bolt it onto the 91. The only issue may be the EGR if the 95 has one. There's a work around for the EGR is you need it.

A little new for most of us on the USMB. I consider a 99 a new Subaru and if I go into the 2000-2008 it's almost coming off the Dealers floor. You might consider a good 2000-2004 for under $5000 you can find a great used Subaru.

As long as the frame rail is not bent aft of the Strut tower or the strut tower damaged you can fix it pretty easy. Cut or pull out the damaged sections and weld in new used parts.

KYB's Best deal I get on them is when I find an almost new set in the junk yard. I grab them when I see them $25 each complete, strut, spring and top hat. Amazon or Ebay also has some good prices on KYB strut sets from time to time.

Don't mess with the rear main unless you know it's bad. Most of the time the oil is coming from the breather plate. Changed rear main seals cause more leaks than they fix.

If its just the foam, grab a passenger side, usually in better shape, and install on the drivers side.

Do the 2.2 swap with a good used engine and Save! www.car-part.com you can search the yards. UPAP - You pull the used eng $250 Rebuild your engine, he does a good job - $1500 http://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/4819185985.html

Phone Call, Email and PM, no response yet. Anyone heard from Shawn? I take it he's out on Christmas/Happy New Year. Man he deserves a Holiday.

Short drives, will kill the battery, as it never fully charges. High draw when you start and then a short drive never charges the battery fully. Check the voltage when running to make sure it's charging properly.

yes, you might just try cleaning and drying out the connector. Only 1 10mm bolt to change the sensor.

Not running, $500 - $1000 depending on condition. Most likely you bent valves at a minimum. Sell if you can, unless you can do the work yourself.

Don't drive it until it's fixed, you'll cause more damage!

Do you have a sun roof? Could be a drain is clogged. But the above advice is great!

As a few have recommended, you may want to: Check the fluid level Change the fluid and check for metal in the fluid Change the external filter I doubt it will just fail without getting worst first. Shift manually to prevent the hard shocks to the trans and driveline.

I'd jack up the front end and see if you can rotate the wheel while someone holds the other. You could have a bad cv joint, totally disconnected.

Check the rear driveshaft front U-joint! Most frequent failure.

Auto into Auto Trans Manual into Manual Trans

Cam or crank sensor. Have you checked the CEL?

Yes a 2.2 swap. Find a good Subaru Mechanic and get a low mileage engine - www.car-parts.com. My wife's 98 5sp Outback has been working fine for years with the 2.2. I haul other Subarus on a dolly with it. 24-28 mpg.

How old is the gas in the tank? If you do not drive this Subaru very often, you may just have old gas with more moisture collected in it. You can do diagnostics on the car, you have to read up on it. Plug the green connector together under the dash and meet the drive requirements. The IAC controls the idle The TPS sends the shift down signal to the trans. I'd get at least a full tank or two on 91 Octane gas through it with some Sea Foam treatment before you start changing parts. Subaru or NGK Plug wires Copper core NGK Plugs would be the recommended parts.

Throttle Cables, loosen the 2 12mm nuts, run the back one completely off until you can slide it out of the bracket. You can now bring the cable around to line it up with the slot in the throttle cam and remove them. There is a metal tab on the bottom of the cam that you have to slide the cable past. Yes, you can swap the lines, it's pretty time consuming as you need the valves associated with the system as well as the electrical harness. It can all be swapped, just make sure you route the harness the same as there is not much room between the engine and the harness when you bolt the intake back up.

Do you have the CEL Codes? That will help. I'd check all the grounds to make sure they are good and battery connections are good. Subaru Alt? If not you may want a OEM part. Does it start fine after your drive or is the battery dead?