lmdew

Likely to find more info at www.nasioc.com Larry

Can't hurt to try. Depends on how long it was run low on fluid.

It should be fine, you may want to have someone watch for trans fluid leaks. Stand to the side or follow you.

Under the front lower A-arm to body Aft mount point.

Yes, 80/90 W gear lube. I've been using the Walmart syn. blend (cause it pours much faster) for years with no issues.

Replace the complete shaft as they are balanced. 95-99 Legacy L or Limited will be the same.

95-99 half shafts are the same, some of the newer ones have the ABS ring on the half shaft. YPAP is fine, just make sure the boots are good and the overall condition is good. Stick to Subaru Parts is best.

The finish on the Subaru idlers outer skin seems much better, so the idea has some merit. I second the thoughts above. A jig to set the correct depth would be the best. Time and Money, how much would you save and how long does it take? Larry

Shawn at http://retroroo.com/ CCR use to the link to MWE, but I don't see it on their new site: http://ccrengines.com/ Google them and found this: I recently contacted MWE Axles and they asked me to post their new contact info. Formerly: “MWE Axles”. 2595 S. Salida Street. Aurora, Colorado. 80013 Phone: 1-303-522-8070 Email: fw1@juno.com or mwolf1303@juno.com

Yep, pretty easy to open once removed.

Interference engine Displacement right down on the block, behind the oil pressure switch External HG leaks, so look at the block to head seam, oil and/or coolant Good Price

New belt and what ever failed to have the belt chew through the cover. Most likely one or more of the pulleys are bad. The toothed idler is the one that fails most often. If you can find a good set at a yard, that's good enough for a test, but if it's good, you'll do the job again.

3 good self serve junk yards in SLC area.

I've seen the rear half shafts popped out of the diff about 1/2", acts like a slipping clutch on the manual trans.

Pull all the Timing Covers and check to ensure it's properly timed. Lot's of time the belt will hold, but timing jumps. I'd do that first so you don't bend valves. Hopefully you did not bend any yet.

No chip in a 2002 as far as I know. Subaru can cut a new one off the VIN.

When you jumped the Switch you were on the body side wiring correct? Did you try both Switches, the Neutral and Reverse to make sure you had the correct one?

Most likely NO. I've had them spin many times, never had damage, as long as it was timed right before it was turned by the crank.

I believe that stub shaft is held in with a circle spring clip. You could try a pry bar between the inner CV Joint and trans, or put the axle nut back on and then use the strut/rotor as a slide hammer and try to pop it out. you may pull the inner CV joint apart if it's spring clip pops first. I've done it both ways at the yards.

No, if the C-Duty is not working, it's in AWD all the time, which is why you have torque bind.

YES & YES You have to slide the tail shaft back about an 1" and disconnect the connector for the C-Duty

The one gong to the C-Duty, which controls the rear clutch pack. If the light is no longer coming on, the C-Duty or a wire fault on it is most likely.

Search Torque Bind, some pretty good threads with pics on the replacement. Just change what's bad. The last one i did just had a broken wire that had to be fixed. Does the FWD light come on when you put in the fuse? Have you tried the drain and fill to clean out the Trans?

I've had good luck going to Ace Hardware and getting bronze bushings to work with some modifications.

Run a couple of single strands of wire in the connector, so you can read voltage with the pump hooked up. I bet you will see different readings.