lmdew

YES & YES You have to slide the tail shaft back about an 1" and disconnect the connector for the C-Duty

The one gong to the C-Duty, which controls the rear clutch pack. If the light is no longer coming on, the C-Duty or a wire fault on it is most likely.

Search Torque Bind, some pretty good threads with pics on the replacement. Just change what's bad. The last one i did just had a broken wire that had to be fixed. Does the FWD light come on when you put in the fuse? Have you tried the drain and fill to clean out the Trans?

I've had good luck going to Ace Hardware and getting bronze bushings to work with some modifications.

Run a couple of single strands of wire in the connector, so you can read voltage with the pump hooked up. I bet you will see different readings.

The pump will cycle on for a few seconds when you first turn the key on and then turn off, this is normal operation. If the fuse is good, you should have power to the pump. Your pump may be going bad, pulling more amps than normal. Worked off the battery cause of the high CCA. Search fuel pump, there was just a thread on this last week or two. Turned out to be a bad pump. Fixed with a good used Subaru pump from the yard. Your meter can lie to you if you are just checking voltage. Check out the Load Pro at www.brighterideas.com Larry

TB is a pretty easy fix as everything is in the tailshaft of the Trans. It's much easier to fix TB instead of a trans change. Search Transmission Chart and you will find it, to cross check your #'s

Joel will help http://www.greensyncro.com/Services.php You need both sides of the harness all the way to the ECU.

Engine side or Car Side and what engine are you swapping in? 95-99 2.2 and 2.5 engine harness are pretty much the same, some minor differences. 96-99 2.5 DOHC will plug and play for sure.

Always good to read the owners manual, the FWD fuse info is in there. Half shafts are pretty easy to change as long as the splines in the hub are not rusted in. Loosen the axle nut Pin punch the top strut bolt for alignment Remove the top lower strut mount bolt Loosen the lower bolt Remove the inner half shaft roll pin and slide it off the trans shaft Remove it from the hub. Reinstall in the reverse order

Take a look. Did they say leaking coolant or oil? Small oil leaks will stay small for lots of miles.

Don't pull the pan to change the internal screen/filter. If you have an external spin on filter, you may change it.

Check the TPS readout if it only happens at specific throttle settings.

Auto or Manual Trans? If its an auto, you should have put the FWD fuse in when you put on the spare on the rear. I suspect you have taken out one of the CV joints on the half shaft.

You will find 4 or 5 bulbs in the unit. You have to carefully pull off the rear circuit board. The bulb holders are 1/4 turn and come out easy. You can work the green plastic cover off the old bulb and reuse it. To make the mini bulbs the same length, grab a ball point pen and pull the ink tube out. Cut the empty upper end to the length you need and feed the mini bulb wires through and into the old socket. Trim the excess wire.

Bump

One is the neutral Sw the other the Rev Sw. They do go up to the top of the trans, so yes you can check them Open = OL, Closed 0.0 Ohms easy.

Manual Trans has a Switch on the upper drivers side of the trans. I believe the Auto comes from the selector on the passenger side of the trans.

It does not matter as the pump comes out the top. Unless it was full to the max you're ok.

no on he neutral SW.

Vent lines

Yes and Yes Not to hard, you want to make sure the TC remains fully seated. Make sure the front & rear diffs are the same ratio. The UPAP option is worth it, if you can find one from a car that was hit pretty hard, side or rear, that way you can be pretty sure it was going down the road.

The two fuses close to the links should remove all power down stream. I'd pull the fuse box and remove the cover on the bottom to see if you have a short.

If you have an amp meter, you can hook it up and then pull the radio fuse. If the AMPS drop, there is a solution. There are quick disconnects for batteries as well. I have a Dash unit from a 2005 if you want it, $60 shipped.

I'd love to help but the school bus turning left into my Moto Guzzi back in July has put me on the sidelines. No Subaru MX for at least a few more months. PM sent, Thanks MilesFox.