Qman

If you want hunting quiet go with the turbo. Anything else will have too much noise to work for hunting. Keep the Y-pipe the same diameter as stock. After that you can open it up a bit. This will retain back pressure and allow it to flow. I have spent big $$ on exhaust systems over the last few years experimenting with different set ups and sizes. If you have the time and money I can recommend a good guy in Sumner(east of Tacoma). But, he isn't cheap. For the entire system it would run about $300.00 with a turbo muffler. Magnaflow's, cherry bombs and glass packs are noisier mufflers designed to have a distinct sound. The turbo's are designed to be quieter.

Correct, the 3dr has a unique ws. The molding is also different. It has the cupped edges that are supposed to aid in keeping the water from the ws out of the side windows. The other models do not have this type.

How many times have you been to Hillsboro?

No way do I want to chew your dust cloud. Let's use class finish or overall time from the last rally X to determine who goes first! Qman 6:10 2nd Xsnrg 6:49 1st 84 Brat 7:32 1st JQ 8:00 2nd Rallyroo 8:19 8th Edrach 9:08 3rd Sorry Matt, looks like you may be eating dust either way. J/K I don't know if I am going to get there at the crack of dawn or not. I am running in the afternoon so I may get a little more sleep. It sort of depends on the family also. They will be coming with me since we are going to Hillsboro directly following the rallyX.

Downforce? These cars will not ever experience downforce! Do experience downforce it will require much more sustained speed than almost any EA series car would experience. These are purely cosmetic.

Could you go in to detail of how you installed the belt(s)?

Yes, definitely remove the bottom bolt from the shock. That should allow all the room neccessary to remove the axle. Half the battle is getting them loose. If you can loosen the two rear bolts enough for the diff to have a bit of movement that will help as well. Worst case scenario is to remove the three mounting bolts for the diff drop it down and remove the axle. Then reinsert the axle with the correct orientation. Slides on in any spline but the pin will only go in one way. If you look at the axle and the stub you will see that one side has a slight recess in it. Match those two up and the pin will slip right in.

Roll your fender lips flat or you will keep slamming the tires under suspension compression. Once rolled it may be just fine.

I don't mean to come across as harsh but this is the West Coast Subaru Show. He could bring it but it(the Sami) may not get past the gatekeepers.

I might suggest that you relocate them to the top of the bumper. Considering you like to drive fast on the logging roads and such. The first dip in the road hit at speed will probably eliminate them quickly.

It should be on a tag on the front top of the bellhousing. It may be stamped into the case as well.

Here's the latest info. Please Note: This is a TENTATIVE Event Schedule Morning Session: G2, G5, Production, Truck/ SUV classes 08:00 – 9:00 Technical Inspection/Registration Location: 2050 North River Road, Cosmopolis WA 98537 09:15 Drivers Meeting Location 2697 North River Rd. Cosmopolis WA 98537 09:30 Parade Lap 09:45 First Car Out 12:00 ? Lunch Break (after morning classes runs completed) Afternoon session: Production GT & Open classes 12:00- 13:00. Afternoon Technical Inspection/Registration 2050 North River Rd. Cosmopolis WA 98537 13:15 Drivers Meeting Location 2697 North River Rd. Cosmopolis WA 98537 13:30 Parade Lap 14:45 First Car Out 16:00 ? Finish/Awards (as soon as afternoon classes runs are completed) More info can be found at http://www.historicbrooklyntavern.com/

Hmmm, I wonder why it only lists for the Pathfinder. Is the offset housing different than the older centered diff? BTW, good link Mike!

Hey Morgan, just join up. Same registration process as here. They have an old school forum there and also some region specific forums as well. Granted most of their membership is new gen but they also appreciate the old stuff as well. Besides, they are a little freer on the topics allowed.

There are actually a number of correct answers for this. Axle shaft spline length, bearing condition, hub and axle shaft spline condition, and actual torque applied to the axle nut. Axle shaft spline length; There are different length splines depending on where the core axle came from. They all fit, but will not all fit correctly. Bearing condition; The bearings are the biggest contributor to worn/stripped hubs. Before those who say no jump up screaming think about it. When bearings wear the front tires wobble, correct(rear as well for that matter)? Why is this? If the axle held it all tight the bearing would never cause slop to appear, correct? The hub is not designed to bottom out on the splines. That is why they end in a point on the axle and are not square grooves. The bearing takes up the slack. If the bearing is not adequately greased or is starting to fail it will continue to loosen until it finally does bottom out on the axle. Then, the wear to the shaft and hub begins. Hub and axle shaft spline condition; This is directly related to all of the above. Also, hubs and shafts that are exposed to alot of the elements, snow, mud, rain, and overall dirty conditions will also wear out sooner than those that are not. Actual torque applied to the axle nut; I believe that the torque requirement for axle nuts is around 140 ft/lbs. Now how many people just jump on top of their breaker bar and/or extension to get them as tight as they can? What would happen if you used this procedure for head bolts or intake bolts or the front crank bolt? The threads would stretch. As the threads stretch they are no longer able to hold the torque applied and appear to loosen. Draw your own conclusions as I know most will. Bottom line is do the repair correctly or keep doing it over and over again.

Tim, an EA82 turbo and downpipe work real nice on the EA81 turbo's. No fabbing, completely bolt-on!

Well, I am familiar with '80's Subaru's. I have had a few lifted ones as well. There are not any factory adjustments for camber or caster in the front. It will settle in some after a few miles(100 miles or so). The first thing that people tell you is that having your tires like that is going to destroy your tires. What the uninformed fail to recognize is that people generally put an all-terrain truck tire on after lifting. Or at the very least a larger tire/wheel combo. These tires are designed to support alot more weight than they will be on a Subaru. Hence, these tires are also usually stiffer as well. Any tire wear you experience will be from hard cornering that you used to be able to do that you shouldn't do now. You may experience a small amount of tire wear. But, they shouldn't wear out in a couple hundred miles either. I replaced a set of Cooper Discoverers after about 30K miles and they still had wear left. As a matter of fact I know that they got another couple of years out of them as they were still on the lifted Brat in Texas that got rearended. You should alter your driving style somewhat because you didn't build a street racer you are building an off-road rig.

There are only one size rear disc brakes in the GL/Loyale series cars. The rubber O-rings will appear smaller until they are installed. What else doesn't look right? As far as the shipping goes. I recently bought a couple items from outside of the US. Shipping seems a bit high from everywhere in my opinion.

Nissan P/U's use R180's. The R160 LSD's do not work in them. There were not any air lockers, LSD's etc., available for the Nissan.

That is where you secure the T-tops when they are removed from the Brat.

It actually needs to be longer. I have a two piece driveline for a Hatchback for the 5sp conversion. It comes with servicable u-joints and is balanced nicely. It was built by DrivelinesNW. Cost was over $200.00, I'll sell it for $150.00.

Things to check are the vacuum advance unit. The diaphrams go bad. Then the EGR valve. Same issue, bad diaphrams. Then the vacuum leaks need to be repaired, if present. Sometimes the adjustment screw has already been accessed by taking the small block rod out. Can be removed with the carb on but can be a pain to do so. Most of these stumbling issues are related to timing and fuel mixture. Make small adjustments to timing after the other items have been repaired or proven good. You'll find to spot that the car runs best at.

Yeah we get them. Most are pretty rough. Occassionaly you'll find one in decent shape. The Coupe's, Hatches, Brats, Wagons and Sedan's all made there way here. Only a few people have used them for off-road use here.

K, problem has been addressed. Time to move on.

Hydraulics didn't appear until '83 but only in the auto and turbo models. '85 and later all had hydraulic.