TomRhere

I did not do the engine swap, but I did pull the engine, and do a re-seal on it. Same, or close to doing the swap. This is on/in an '82 BRAT, which still has the D/R 4 Spd tranny. Upon re-installing the engine, I found that the disty should be left out, and re-installed afterwards. The Hill-Holder, (ifin you have one), should be moved rearwards the distance of the mounting holes for it. And you need to tweak the front most lines on the Master Cylinder. Being very carefull, not to kink them.... (edited in)> Or, you can use another "T" block and just remove the HH completely. Be sure to fab a bracket to secure the "T's" if you do this. The wires to the disty need to be lengthened, or you will need to move the coil to the Driver's side of the engine. That involves more wiring mods, than just lenghtening the disty wires. Upon installing the engine, you'll want to leave the motor mounts loose at the engine block. This will help to get the studs into the slots in the crosmember. You can then tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the mounts to the crossmember, be sure to check that the engine is centered between the frame-rails. It will be close, not much more than a 1/4" per side. The Vacuum Advance unit on the Disty will hit the Master Cylinder, if you try to go past halfway of the slot for the lock-down bolt. This really doesn't seem to be of any concern, as mine is still in the forward half of the slot. I'm setting Ignition timing by ear, due to the next paragraph... (edited in)> Has been stated that the Auto trans Master Cylinder is shorter, I don't know for sure... Please, save yourself, and/or the next owner some headaches. Use the EA-82's flywheel!!!! It has the T-belt timing marks, and the Ignition timing marks are not in the same position, either. You can transfer the marks over to the EA-81 flywheel, But Why??!?!?? Just use the EA-81's clutch disc, pilot and throw-out bearing, ifin you're using the 4 Spd, while using the EA-82's flywheel and pressure plate. My radiator support has been re-drilled to fit the EA-82's radiator's upper mounting points. Other than that, the hoses, and thermo-switch for the fan(s) are the same. The radiator cap, appears to be in a different locale, but it ain't no biggy. The radiator hoses are trimmed to fit their respective runs.... (edited in)> There is, a difference in the bottom mount points for the EA-82 radiator, but the holes can be drilled into the radiator support to match. Ifin you have the waterpump mounted fan on your EA-82, you may want to leave it off. There is only 1/4" to 3/8" between it and the radiator. Makes me nervous!!!!!! The originator of this swap in my BRAT, shortened the housing for the accelerator cable, then lengthened the cable itself. Why, I don't know. Made the Weber swap that much more fun. NOT!!! Addendum; As for going with a SPFI?MPFI set-up, you'll need to swap-out the fuel pumps, and the front filter. Best really to re-run all fuel lines too, as the FI system is higher pressure than carbed. Best to have "donor vehicle" near you. You will need to pull the ECU and it's wiring from it. My take on this would be to start at the ECU end of the FI harness, and disect the wires out for the ECU. Make sure to tag what goes where, makes life more enjoyable upon installation. This will allow the other systems of the vehicle to operate off the original wiring, and the engine off it's own. Will make for easier trouble-shooting in the future. If you're using the 5spd tranny, the mounts/crossmember for it is different than the 4spd one. Jerry (bratsrus1) makes a kit for installing it. His kit reworks the 2 mounts/crossmembers into one, and reworks the shifters so they look stock. Think that about covers it...............Whew!!!

I've ran solid mounts on some High HP vehicles in the past. Vibration in the car is/was very noticable on many of them. Enough so, that I had to continuously re-tighten the screws in the dash panels, on one of the cars. On that particular car, I re-did the solids to lengthen the studs, to allow for 2 rubber washers, made from a junk tire's sidewall. One between engine's mount piece and frame bracket, and one between frame bracket and the washer above the mount stud's nut. Helped abit, but didn't eliminate all of the vibration. Good idea there. Another way to stop engine twisting, is to use a length of all-thread, with the rubbers, washers, nut set-up on each end, like you find on shock assorbers. Need a bracket on the engine end, and a relitively close hole thru frame or crossmember. Done this one myself, and allows you to adjust hold-down for some engine movement, (but not to much there). Also, with some movement, it helps to lessen the vibrations, while keeping engine where it supposed to be. To tight, and you have major vibration happening. Had engine basically just sitting on a piece of rubber between the mount brackets. Got tired of replacing mounts after a good night of 1/4 mile runs. 500+ ponies. 3500 # vehicle, side-stepping clutch pedal @ 5500 RPM, somethings gotta give.

VIN is stamped into firewall, just to the left of the spare tire area, as yo're looking at it from in front of BRAT. As for re-titling one good from two bad, depends on State your in, as it varies quite abit.

Could just put drill bit into the one tapped hole, and wrap tape around it to mark depth. Then drill out other 2 holes, stopping at the tape.

I was looking into this for bobbrumby when my DMM died on me. Still waiting for it to be repaired, or the shop to buy me a new one. All 3 of the BRATS had delay wipers. Believe switches are swappable. Found a relay in the circuit, just to the right of the fuse box, that could be the delay unit. Was at this point my meter died, so I didn't get any further in the investigation.

Loctite also has a porduct specifically for stripped threads, "Damaged Thread Repair", or something like that. Has stuff for in the hole, and a release agent for on the stud/bolt/nut, which can be removed and re-torqued after allowing full cure. And JB-Weld is good too, as Skip said. Have used Heli-Coils in the past, but they can lock onto the bolt as well as the threads of the hole, making removal darn near impossible. Which is a good thing for a stud, I guess. Never heard of Timeserts myself, either. Curious here on them..........

Can be done with engine in car, but would be easier to do with engine out of car.

Mine all run just below the 1/2 mark. New radiators, T-sats, hoses, coolant in all.

Going "full custom" on my '82 BRAT. 12" lift, ER-27/DR 5 spd, 'Yota T-case, 31" tires on 6-lug 'Yota rims, EA-82 power steering set up, yada, yada, yada. May even go 33", local tire shop has a set of slightly used ones for sale. Less than 100 miles om them. Man, they look huge though... Been considering on moving the front suspension forward, and mounting the ER-27 more rearward, (have to see how that'll fit yet). Wanting to create room up-front for radiator, is reason for moving engine back. May have to raise engine up abit to clear crossmember, dunt know on that yet. If not, maybe see what I can do on rear mounted radiator. Another thread gave me that idea.......... Hmmm, inside of tailgate maybe??!!?? Also thinking on "Double A-arm" suspension with coil-over shocks, doing away with strut assembly. Run EA-82 axles, and get a wider stance out front. May re-do rear suspension, and use EA-82 axles there too. Wider is good for stability. Although, Scott says his is "good to go" on the normal stance with the bigger tires. She'll be an off-road vehicle, but want to drive her on the paved roads too. Son really likes riding in the back seats. All I need is time "off work" to get busy wrenching on it. I be liking how this thread is turning. Keep the ideas coming................

The '84's got one, sits in PS of engine block. Haven't checked it out yet, but I'm a planning to.

Can't say for sure on the "mm" size. I have a 3/4" socket set here, and just grab the one that fits the best. Usually, they're the larger size, (which I can't re-call right now), but sometimes find a smaller one. Yet to find one 30mm though, I have that socket here..

Awwwww, come on now. Just DO IT!!!!

You gotta good 'un there. Best do things nessecary to keep her!! Good to have someone that supports your hobbies. Glad mine has the BRAT fever too. She won't give me "free reins" on buying things, but she fits things into the budget for me. Gotta Love Her for that................ I do............ Just told me over last weekend, that she figures we'll have enough to do the 40' - X - 80' pole barn, come spring. Now, that will be a place to do some serious 'Ru wrenching in. She even hinted at afew amenities for in it, also. Gotta Love this woman............................................................................

Was down to Jim's (86subaru) last Saturday. Picked up some steering parts from him of the XT he was scrapping out. Asked about the wiring harness, seems no one wanted it, so,,, I started eye-balling the heck out of it. Found the Diode, kinda where I thought it would be, but wasn't real sure on it. It's located on the Main Wiring Harness, right where it makes the L-R split over the tranny tunnel, under the dash. Little 2 wire connector and Diode, both White, just taped to the outside of the harness. Yet 1 more puzzle piece found. A couple more pieces, and it'll be time to start wrenching on this puppy. Yeah Right!! Working 60 - 70 + hours a week, don't leave much time for wrenching. They just posted today, "Manditory Weekend". Sucks!!!!!!!!!! Worked Mo., Tu., We., and have 38 hours in already this week. Starting to rant, better quit now..................

When I shift mine, er I mean Her's, into 4WD, there is just barely a noticable, ummm, bump I guess you'd call it. Kinda feel it more by the seat of the pants thing than anything else. Wife can't tell when it shifts into or out of 4WD, niether could a friend that road in it once. Find some loose gravel or sand to test it on. Push the button, nail go-pedal. If just the fronts spin, it ain't a working.

Probally was just a smidge of corrosion on the connection(s) that you played around with. It don't take much sometimes, 'specially on a high amp draw component such as a starter. Just loosening/retightening the bolt/nut will sometimes cure the problem.

Those "extra" holes are there for ease of casting the head, and or block. If the matching hole ain't in the gasket, don't put it there.

I agree with that statement, totally. Stripped out many a car in my days, and scrapping out the '86, really gave me some "insight" to these here Subaru's, as to how things are put together.

IIRC, there's 3 bolts/nuts that hold the housing in. 1 below, and 2 above, behind the glove box. It's still somewhat of a sruggle to get it past the lower edge of the dash though, but it can be done. Went thru the very same thing on all 3 of my BRATs. Used Murphy's Oil Soap to wash everything down with. Helped out alot, but still took sometime to get all the odor gone.

I use a block of aluminum against the axleshaft end for whammering the axle out of the hub. On the lower ball-joint removal for the axle removal. There's a pinch-bolt on the knuckle that holds the ball-joint cup. Just remove the bolt, and insert a fat bladed screwdriver in the slot to wedge it open. Then put a strong bar or shovel handle across the reaction rod and under the engine crossmember, right about where the E-brake cable support bracket is, pry down to release the ball-joint. Turn the steering wheel towards the side that you're working on. This will give you enough free room to get knuckle assembly free from axle. Recommend re-torquing the axle nut after about 100 miles of driving. Sometimes, things just don't seat right on assembly and it'll loosen up after a bit. I've replaced wheel bearings both using a press and on my garage floor with punch and hammer. Easier for me to use punch and hammer method.

If you get the car, and plan to do mods to it, be sure to have yourself another daily driver. Mods can run into problems, and leave you with a vehicle sitting on jackstands. Which even for a day, could cause you a problem if you can't get to work. I have 95% of the needed things to do a 12" lift, ER-27 & D/R 5spd, Nissan T-case, 'Yota 15" rims, yada, yada, yada. The problem here is, hardly any time to work on the thing. Pulled the engine and tranny back in April this year. BRAT's still sitting in the garage on jackstands. I've dropped the front suspension since then, and got the interior pretty much gutted, (rust repair and Rhino-lining there). But that's just about it. The Company I work for, has kicked into full blown, (Turboed with NOS even), production. I've been putting in 60 - 70 + a week, and I'm "on-call", 24/7. Don't leave much time for exta-carricular(sp) activities. Wasn't in the plans when I started this endeavor, so I have to work around it. Also have Family members wanting me to wrench on their vehicles. They come before me.

I totally agree with the previous statements. Preventive Maintenance is the key to longevity of anything mechanical. You have to spend money to save money. I'm sure y'all's heard that before.. One of the guys from Ram Performance is on the Yahoo BRAT Club site. I've scoped out their site afew times. Good for a . Can't afford to buy anything from them at this time, but it's nice to dream.

YO FOX!!! Just a small get together at Jim's place this Saturday, (not aturday as stated above). Some fix-it wrenching, some scrap-it wrenching. May have buyer for his BRAT with me too. BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22192 'Nuff said in that post, but that's just my opinion. Didn't take me no 2-3 hours doing my 1st T-belts. And I had to re-time them due to former owner using the wrong flywheel on the engine, hence no T-belt timing marks. Really ain't that hard of a job, even with all of the creature comfort devices installed on certain models. IE; power steering, air conditioning, so on and so forth.

Tip given to me from the Owner of a Tranny Rebuild Shop: "Pour a bottle of Gum-Out fuel system cleaner, (a small one), in the Tranny. If it starts working right, do a flush, filter and fluid change. If it don't do anything different, your tranny is on it's way out. Won't hurt it anymore to leave the Gum-Out in it. No actual proof, but it just may help it last longer." I've done it on a few trannies, the 3 F's were indicated on most, but a couple it didn't matter. Did make them work abit better, but not quite right. Drove a couple of those until they went, then did the swap.