Turbone

Caleb probably has the most experience with this. And probably the worst luck also:-\

They are just run of the mill 6 lug 15" Cheby rims:-p But to use them you need to modify your the rims or your drums/rotors. The safer, harder way is to have your drums/rotors machined to fit the rims. But then your stuck with that type unless you change out your stuff. The other way is to knock out 2 opposing studs, set the rim on the drum/rotor and mark where the rim where the 2 studs were knocked out. Drill the rim (carefully, mind you) and countersink the hole like the rest. Reinstall the studs and your ready to roll. I havent had any problems, no looseness or warping at all. You can also use Toyota wheels to do the same thing. Dont forget, you can still get peugeot 14" & 15" alloy and steel wheels. They are direct bolt ons.

You will probably never know. Look under his screen name. He's been banned:dead:

That sure looks like Jackie Chan and the Cannonball Run movie. I thought that was the infamous Turbo Hatch? Now residing up in Bellingham at a college I cant remember. Carfreak is the guy in the know on that deal. Oh, duh. Didnt see the caption at the bottom of the pic. But the other comments are correct. Heres a crappy pic of my first Hatch, back in 94.

Lots of patience:-p Remove the windshield if possible. It makes accessing the bolts easier. Theres one at each end that can be a bear to get out. I think theres one in the middle under a little plastic cover(?). Underneath on each corner and I THINK in the middle underneath. Its been a while since I pulled a dash.

You should edit that to say "RED" hatch:rolleyes:

Model Year I believe. Used to refer to the early models.

To hard to tell by the pics if the clutch is contaminated, but the fly wheel and PP look bad. Knowing that you replaced the clutch and PP, theres no worries there. But did you clean up or have the flywheel turned? When I replaced all that on my T-Wagon recently, I took my angle grinder and put a 120 grit disc on and hit the fly wheel with it. Did a fair job and the clutch doesnt grab, chatter or slip. Btw, thats a great price on the alt.

Make sure you have someone take vid of it;)

I always see them on Ebay, nor sure which one will fit a wagon tho.

Wait until you see the next mod:headbang: Well, its more of a safety improvement:rolleyes:

Ah, thats a sissy Hatch:Flame: Now this is a proper Hatch:brow:

Yup, it did. But it had something like 12" of lift I believe:eek: It had the nick of "Weeble Wooble":cool: See my post in this thread...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71123

I've been thinking about the new pattern, but not sure how I would make a template/stencil for it. Also want to do my Hatch in the white urban camoflage. Or use the real brush/leaf technique. I've seen this one done, it looks awesome.

The pic doesnt do it justice. It was almost dark and the fence was in the way. To bad no one took any video of it:-\

^^^What she said^^^ Thats the ultimate XT right there. Fulltime 4wd, GL-10, Turbo w/spider intake:burnout:

Believe it or not, Mazda had a rotory 4x4 truck back in the 70's. I watched one go thru a mudpit (8000rpm's) when the big rigs couldnt. Nice score on the retro Courier:headbang:

I'm running 30x11.50x15 on my Hatch. I've logged 100's of miles(most on road) and havent had any wheel bearing problems............yet.

Ok, heres one. How about me and my Hatch going thru the mud bog at WCSS8? I can post a pic later, I'm on my laptop right now. Last weekend while up at Evans Crk I had to turn around on 311 and come back up to help Qman. My Hatch went thru the rough spot at the top like it was nothing. Having the divorced t-case and lower gears has made a world of difference:headbang:

Àny Subaru over 15yrs old is going to have some maintenance issues. What your experiencing is typical of one at that age. Usually mileage is the determining factor, but its obvious your car needs some TLC. You have a cv joint going out. You can get a rebuilt or a new one. Theres a couple of decent companys, do a search. Your oil leakage is also common. Your due for timing belts, so now would be a good time to do the seals up front also. Your probably looking at $150 +/- , depending on where you get parts.

15" 6 hole Chevy wheels. You knock out 2 of your studs, put the wheel on the hub/rotor and mark the 2 holes where the studs were. Then you need to fab a 10" lift to fit 30x10.50x15 Superswampers under the car:grin: Check out my photos in the Gallery, theres more pics of my Hatch there. It has a few other mods under it too:brow:

Let me know when you get it home, we really need to meet up;)

I'm there almost as much as here now. Its alot more relaxed, if you know what I mean;)

He busted the J-arm on the drivers side. I dont know who took pics of me. Might find some over at NW Wheelers;)

Woohoo! That was a blast to watch you 2 guys go thru that. No way was I going to try that either. I wonder if that led to his later steering part failure? It took 3 weld jobs to get out today, got home around 7:30:-p Had fun even tho I got there late:rolleyes: We ran 520 and came down the back way on 311. Thats where Qman broke, close to the top of the last climb.