Turbone

Well, if you time it and it still does it, you can rule out the timing issue. You can use some starter fluid and spray it around the base of the carb to see if there are any leaks.

If its for Off-Road application forget about the intercooler and such, its not needed. A bigger turbo/crossover,downpipe from a EA82T is good, gutted cat and free flow exhaust is good. 5spd D/R tranny is a must. Dont think the 2wd disty will work without alot of mods to the electrical system, probably not a good idea for a Turbo. Not to many people have done big mads to the EA81T engines (cams, etc).

The one with the canister is a dealer add-on. The one with the cable setup is factory.

Adam is correct, its the vacume canister for the CC.

Wether its carb or injected, it sounds like it could use a new fuel filter. Also check for vac leaks.

Tires/lug nuts?

Hmmmm, up by Crystal Lake?

Really? My bad then, its been a while since I've looked for them. I think I've seen them at Pep Boys, I can check the next time I'm there.

You have 2 choices. You can go with the plastic/lexan covers, or convert to the DL quad light setup. The wire guards are still available from JCWhitneys.

Oil pump gasket is another leaker. If the car has alot of miles on it, it might be a good idea to put a gasket set/seal on the pump.

Come to think of it, my non-existant memory is recalling that it might have been at a dealership. I'm going to go thru my pic archives and see what I can find.

Doing this to a wagon would probably not be a good idea. You loose a alot of structural integrity when you cut the roof off/out. But if you do this to a Hatchback, now thats different. A couple of people have gone the "Unhatched" route.

What a coincidence. I had the same problem on my XT Sat. So I looked in the FSM, and there was nothing there except firing order. So I went to my standby, How to Keep Your Subaru Alive. They show disty rotation. Dont know why I didnt think of it when reading your thread:rolleyes:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/tn_pug15-alloy-stripes.jpg

Its nice to see the fanatics and their cars from the home country.

Look, we have all been trying to figure this out for over a week. You have had every suggestion we could think of from over a dozen people on the board. I think you owe it to us for trying just as hard as you to get your car running:-p If you dont tell and keep teasing us, it is going to be real hard to get help again:banghead:

Sounds like you got a axle meant for a Turbo tranny. Its 25 splines. Altho I'm not sure how it fit on there. Maybe it wasnt even a Subaru axle? Thats typical for Schmucks.

Black plugs mean the air/fuel mixture is too rich.

You know what I think:headbang:

Miles, what about the axles? Remember the splines are different, the turbo axles are 25, and the non-turbo is 23.

What do the plugs look like for 3 and 4? All you changed was the timing belts originally? I think we're missing something here, and cant pin it down. The key is its the 2 back cylinders. You did put a new cap on, right?

With my 86 Turbo Wagon it wouldnt hit redline. With the bottom of the box cut out, it hits 6K+

It sounds like the tensioner is not all the way up. The correct routing and steps are to attach the belt to the crank sprocket, the oil pump spocket, the belt idler, then the cam sprocket. Make sure you have tension on the bottom of the belt, then loosen the tensioner. It takes a special tool to tighten the belt by the cam sprocket, but the belt tension is supposed to be between 24-46lbs. I've only done 2 belt installs, and tighten them by pushing down on the tensioner. I havent had any belt slap yet, even at high R's. Subi81, nice pics. But does it run?

I think someone is too far away from the beach. And theres one that needs to realise that fast cars and fast women have been together longer than me and a few others here.

See? Arent you glad you kept the car now? Hey, Crazyboy needs to see this. Go post it on Miles board.