Turbone

Is that a turntable behind the parts?

Have you checked to see if the axle nut is tight? We usually tighten them up to 150ft lbs + (I know the manual says 145ft lbs)

Even the best mechanics can be mistaken sometimes But I have to admit, my 200k RX tranny is still alive. But its getting tired and I know when I do my swap its days are numbered. I seriously doubt the RX tranny can last when it has over 200ft lbs of torque going to it.

Had a good time today, nice meeting the new folks and nice to hang again with some regulars. I'm going to have to come up with a game that Zap cant whoop me at

Awesome kid guys. Now you just need to get him a battery powered WRX next Christmas

Probably blow all the seals out.

Yeah, thats where the sensor is located, I believe theres also a vac line to it. But mine is disconnected and I have a standard boost gauge now. The PCV valve is located on the back-drivers side of the intake, you should see a hose connected to it. These can be cleaned, if they arent junked up to bad. But if you replace it, go OEM. Check the hoses for carbon build up also.

I can find wheels all day long on Craigslist and Nasioc. Just depends on what you want to spend.

Febreeze

Wow, that sucker is really shoehorned in there I'm impressed, I've pulled a couple of these engines and know what its like to work with them. It looks like he made a extended grill of some sort to gain clearance. It actually looks like it fits better than the ER27.

There are priorities in life. Toys are on bottom of the list.

This is correct. Being in the right place at the right time helps. Checking CL every day does too Once you get your own place and steady/secure job, you will be able to have another (or more).

The rear diff wont work unless it matches the final drive ratio of your tranny. And there have been lots of swaps done with a EG33 into other Soobs. Not sure if there are any threads here about it, but I know there are over at Nasioc.

Hey, I'm not rich :-\ I cleaned them, then prepped them for paint. Duplicolor gloss black ftw. After doing several sets like this, I'm getting pretty good at it.

Getting rid of the crappy steel wheels I had for winter and got some WRX wheels from Caboob. Before... And after...

It took me many hours and a ton of piping/clamps/hoses to do my setup, but I have a TD04. With a standard EA82 turbo setup it shouldnt be real difficult, just have lots of pipe and hoses of different angles and lengths.

82-87 are for EA81's. Use the 87-94 years for EA82's.

All EA82 rear axles are the same. But your problem may not be a axle, it could be the bushing on top of the rear diff. Get under the car and see if you can push the diff up.

This is what happened to my last EA82T after using a brass type MBC. It didnt matter how much I tried to get it right, it still sucked and ruined my engine. If you want to take the chance of this happening, keep using the homemade stuff. Please post pics of the results.

Use a screwdriver and poke to look for frame rot. It may or may not be repairable.

Theres a real good chance your going to blow your engine up using this (ask me how I know). I got smart and bought a better unit off Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hallman-Pro-RX-Manual-Boost-Controller-Kit_W0QQitemZ350300265684QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518f85dcd4 The price I paid for mine is alot less, something like $60, I suggest looking at all the auctions for a cheaper deal. http://motors.desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=manual+boost+controller&_sacat=33739&LH_TitleDesc=1&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1311&_sop=10&LH_SellerWithStore=1&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&Turbos%252C%2520Nitrous%252C%2520Superchargers%2520Type=Turbo%2520Chargers%2520%2526%2520Parts&_odkw=hoses&_osacat=33739

I bet the PCV system is clogged up. The vac system on these engines are supposed to be tight/closed, it will effect the idle when you open part of the system (oil cap). :picard:

Yes, I have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88249 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82760&highlight=td04 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&highlight=td04 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67724&highlight=td04 See how easy that was?

The correlation to the distyshaft bushing and the RPM's is just to the tach gauge. It really has no effect upon the actual RPM's of the engine. When the fan turns on, theres a draw on the alternator and the RPM's will increase to adjust for that increase. The fluctuation could be due to a vac leak or some other odd occurrence which plague older Soobs.

Not quite correct. I located the car here and held it for her until she came out and had it shipped back the the east coast. Regardless of what everyone says or thinks, this is Steves car to do what he pleases with. Certainly it sucks that it got crunched, but if he has something to replace it with, thats his choice.