1 Lucky Texan
-
Posts
10144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
105
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
-
GD - could he do leak down tests as-is? anyway, if the engine was running when a car was rear-ended, it should be OK. But, rebuilding one or both of your heads is probably cheaper than an engine purchase and swap....dunno. -
well, other things under a car can make noises, but if the original diagnosis was correct then, the part you received seems to be bad. (slim possibility but, maybe the shop didn't tighten the axle nut well or, they left an endlink loose or.... some other re-assembly issue is now the problem?) was it a rebuilt axle? they are often reground to receive larger ball bearings, the grinding 'should' be done by a multi-axis machine, not by hand. and, it should NOT remove all the case hardening. and they should use good lubricants. and they should pay attention to 'clocking' the joints (installing them correctly in relation to each other's rotational position). if you are using your own labor, the 'lifetime warranty' that comes with them isn't quite so bad - makes them a tempting risk. But, you might now have to pay labor charges again. Many people have been down this road.
-
the main complaint I read about the blends is, you don't know if they are 50% synth, or 1% . maybe you could discover over at www.bobistheoilguy.com . LOTS of info and discussions about oil over there.
-
give AWD Tuning in Flower Mound - a call, but, not many places around I'm afraid.
-
check bushings at the rear of the lower control arm.
-
cars101.com has programming instructions too.
-
check ebay if a WTB in the classifieds doesn't work. you might try over at subaruoutback.org and the forester forum. many systems are the same across models. fobs are around.
-
being a WRX, you might search over at NASIOC.
-
has the car always had this problem? what brand/type pads are on the car? no stuck calipers?
-
cel on? scan for pending codes - maybe tumble generator valve runner is stuck? heck - maybe a SEaFoam treatment would help?
-
Living and working in Arlington for a while now - raised in Handley (east Ft.W)
-
the schedule in the OM has a time side as well. The TB system is 105K miles or 105 months, w'ever is first. The toothed idler is often the weak spot, sometimes the tensioner of another idler. The grease goes bad and they seize or loose their bearings. Very rare it seems for the belt to break, unless caused by the chaos from a seized idler.
-
I'd consider new springs too. I suppose if the miles were 90% smooth highway on a car that never saw much cargo, springs may be OK.
-
first 2-3 stops should be in a 'controlled' area in case there's a lot of rust the pads need to get through. I guess monitor for any issues after you begin driving it (sticking calipers, rodent-chewed wires, etc.), perhaps accelerate some fluid changes. Tires over 6-7 years old or more might be starting to rot ?
-
way overdue for TB systems service if it hasn't been done.
-
there's a Forester forum - try over there. maybe also at nasioc.com ?
-
there are Regional sections at nasioc.com - you might ask there. (maybe under the Vendor forum...?)
-
maybe 9 years or 105K miles for timing belt system service, but headgaskets?
-
if you hear the click, then it isn't the neutral safety/clutch switch. most likely, the solenoid contacts and possibly plunger need replacing on the starter. kits can be had from ebay, amazon, elsewhere and there are likely youtube videos demonstrating the repair. best test for the solenoid - next time the car exhibits the symptom, whack the starter with a piece of wood. light-moderate tap, try to start, repeat a coupla times, maybe ad some 'oomph' and try a coupla more times. Don't use a hammer or herculean force.
-
I rebooted one of the axles on our OB with a Beck-Arnley boot that came with grease and a band. Holding up OK so far.
-
just replace the bad one. 750? how much is a new axle from a Subaru dealership! if you cannot do - or have a mechanic do for you - the grossgary suggested reboot of a used axle. I think, if I were in your position I would roll the dice on an FEQ, or EMPI or SureTrak axle from Amazon or RockAuto . Based on a conversation with a local builder/tuner, I'd probably get FEQ. I've had one on my WRX for a while, seems OK. Check Amazon? just a thought.
-
with the plug in place, and protecting the xtra quart of course, you could hose the trans case down with water for a while - even setting-up a sprinkler for a while.
-
install a lower miles used engine from a junkyard and drive to 300K
-
like brus bro said, kinda seems like a CD trying to eject...have u checked that? Also, any chance there are a coupla green connectors connected under the dash, they are ONLY for diagnosics and should normally be disconnected, fans and relays will cycle if they are together.
-
yeah, I don't think it's the missing cats either on a 2001.
