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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. the main complaint I read about the blends is, you don't know if they are 50% synth, or 1% . maybe you could discover over at www.bobistheoilguy.com . LOTS of info and discussions about oil over there.
  2. give AWD Tuning in Flower Mound - a call, but, not many places around I'm afraid.
  3. check ebay if a WTB in the classifieds doesn't work. you might try over at subaruoutback.org and the forester forum. many systems are the same across models. fobs are around.
  4. has the car always had this problem? what brand/type pads are on the car? no stuck calipers?
  5. cel on? scan for pending codes - maybe tumble generator valve runner is stuck? heck - maybe a SEaFoam treatment would help?
  6. the schedule in the OM has a time side as well. The TB system is 105K miles or 105 months, w'ever is first. The toothed idler is often the weak spot, sometimes the tensioner of another idler. The grease goes bad and they seize or loose their bearings. Very rare it seems for the belt to break, unless caused by the chaos from a seized idler.
  7. I'd consider new springs too. I suppose if the miles were 90% smooth highway on a car that never saw much cargo, springs may be OK.
  8. first 2-3 stops should be in a 'controlled' area in case there's a lot of rust the pads need to get through. I guess monitor for any issues after you begin driving it (sticking calipers, rodent-chewed wires, etc.), perhaps accelerate some fluid changes. Tires over 6-7 years old or more might be starting to rot ?
  9. there are Regional sections at nasioc.com - you might ask there. (maybe under the Vendor forum...?)
  10. if you hear the click, then it isn't the neutral safety/clutch switch. most likely, the solenoid contacts and possibly plunger need replacing on the starter. kits can be had from ebay, amazon, elsewhere and there are likely youtube videos demonstrating the repair. best test for the solenoid - next time the car exhibits the symptom, whack the starter with a piece of wood. light-moderate tap, try to start, repeat a coupla times, maybe ad some 'oomph' and try a coupla more times. Don't use a hammer or herculean force.
  11. I rebooted one of the axles on our OB with a Beck-Arnley boot that came with grease and a band. Holding up OK so far.
  12. just replace the bad one. 750? how much is a new axle from a Subaru dealership! if you cannot do - or have a mechanic do for you - the grossgary suggested reboot of a used axle. I think, if I were in your position I would roll the dice on an FEQ, or EMPI or SureTrak axle from Amazon or RockAuto . Based on a conversation with a local builder/tuner, I'd probably get FEQ. I've had one on my WRX for a while, seems OK. Check Amazon? just a thought.
  13. with the plug in place, and protecting the xtra quart of course, you could hose the trans case down with water for a while - even setting-up a sprinkler for a while.
  14. like brus bro said, kinda seems like a CD trying to eject...have u checked that? Also, any chance there are a coupla green connectors connected under the dash, they are ONLY for diagnosics and should normally be disconnected, fans and relays will cycle if they are together.
  15. yeah, if you can make one fit without much cost/hassle - probably source one from a local junkyard easy enough - hopefully not too rusty. Or, go to your 'section' (PNW ?) of NASIOC and maybe someone nearby has a 'take-off' for sale after they swapped-in a louder muffler.
  16. well, since the stock sensor only comes on at 3 psi or something crazy low, just about any oil pressure gauge should allow for better monitoring - some of those 'may' have a configurable alarm or light? hoping to learn from others responding.
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