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The calipers are *not* locked, it is all but impossible. The *slide pins* are locked. There is a difference, that's just how mechanics distill it for public consumption. It's a market driven price - priced right around the sweet spot of shops making easy money with repeatable results, happy customers, and consumers not wanting to deal with options. That price is about right - Very roughly it's $50 caliper, $50 rotor, $50 pads = $150 + $150 labor = $300 per side. You want to make sure the shop is using sil glyde or some other high quality cailper grease. the traditional old style grease causes the pin bushings (which subarus and other cars never used to have) to swell and is low grade stuff anyway, but there are still people using it. You could get this repaired this for about $300-$400 by replacing the slides and pads. This is what I would do and so I'd have you're entire car fixed for $50 in parts (free labor). Here's what you need to repair the "stuck" caliper, buy these and find a mechanic who will install them: $16 for two of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-14149/dp/B000C00XI2/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit $7 for one of these (this set is for both rear sides): https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-16083/dp/B000ZN3GNK/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit&dpID=41khsjLQ5%2BL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Any average shop in the northeast has to have a torch to function so they have the tooling to remove even a terribly stuck slide pin, you just need to find one that will do it. If you want - you can even buy new caliper brackets - they're like $20 each, here's one for $25, then there's absolutely no question since no torch or time is needed to free the stuck slides: https://smile.amazon.com/Cardone-14-1605-Remanufactured-Caliper-Bracket/dp/B003PINW7C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534859313&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+brackets&dpID=4179Sj5u1ZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch You spend $25-$100 in getting the right parts and a shop charges $300 labor - and they're making the same amount of labor doing this rather than replacing the calipers.

I don't think I can get a chisel up in there. very tight. I found a replacement on rockauto for 17 dollars. I called a dealership service and I spoke to a woman in service, but she wouldn't put anyone on who knew what to do. Youre right I may just brake it apart , if I can get a pipe wrench on it, I tried but the pipe wrench jaws weren't deep enough to handle a 3 or 4 inch diameter oil housing and it wouldn't bite . Ill try a bigger pipe wrench and if it bites, ill just keep twisting till it breaks apart or cracks , hopefully all the way to the seat at the top. I really don't want to melt it with a torch, because of the melting to the threads possibility.

John; I know you said it was tight area ... but can you get a hammer / chisel on it ? Up at the top??? (I doubt it) Your heat gun idea may work. Old plastic does break or melt , make sure that a replacement part is quickly available before you get violent with it. When you do get it off make sure you use anti seize on the threads and seat. Have you talked to a VW shop ? I'm sure they have had this issue (why are they using cartridge rather than a spin on in 2018 !!!) They may tell you to break it and just replace it ????

well.... come back when you have a Subaru lol

I don't think there were any bulletins on bearing how-to. Bearings aren't any harder than any other press-in bearing, just make sure to press by the outer race, not the inner. I highly recommend buying a press. My harbor freight press cost twice what paying a shop charged me to do one. I've done dozens since then (as well as bushings, u-joints, etc.).

I have access to TSBs if you can give me a year and some specs to input I'll try for you.

I think that is too much for that job as well. Shop around. Also, why do you need new calipers? My shop usually takes them off and either repairs,or cleans them , lubricates and reinstall them if they are safe.

Remove it, go on, someone has to be the guinea pig. Can you edit your original post to include the fact wire does not go directly to earth, but through radio interference suppressor I think you will find it is Possibly looks like an add on as I think radios were a dealer fitted option so suppressor would have been also added with radio install

This is a tough crowd for this question. We only think in parts. Under $700 with tax is in the ball park of reasonable. I would also do the brake shoes for the e-brake if needed

Could be competitive. Book time is 3.2 Hours. Average private shop rate is usually $50-$75 = ~$200 in Labor Here's the deal with parts. If the shop buys the parts from a local parts store, and installs them, and something fails, the shop will (almost always) do the legwork and the parts store will cover the parts and labor cost (meaning you bring them the car, they fix it, and charge you nothing). The shop will mark up the parts on the original purchase for that service. Decent loaded rear calipers are probably about $100ea over the counter at the store, so figure $150ish through the shop (these are pretty loose numbers and dependent on individual shops/suppliers, but probably within $30 or so). So you're touching $300 in calipers. Depending on how extensive their inspection was, they might be guessing that the calipers will be seized, and it's completely possible that once they get in there, they might find that the old ones are fine. $150 for pads, rotors, brake fluid, maybe shop supplies. That may or may not include tax....not completely unreasonable. Keep in mind, when you buy parts, you're buying the warranty. You can always find a cheaper source, but they might not stand behind the part. You could buy it down the street yourself and bring it to the shop, but they're not going to replace them for free if the part fails, and the parts store isn't going to cover labor on an over-the-counter sale, and you'll probably have to re-buy the replacement part and return the defective part for a refund. If you're prepared to take that risk/hassle, you can certainly save a bunch of money, even if you have the same shop do the labor.

Definitely get more quotes. Chain places will probably be similar, a local suby specialist will likely be your best choice. For example Rock Auto has the following parts/prices PowerStop Caliper/Rotor/Pad Kit $185 (minus $43 core charge on the Calipers) Raybestos Coated Rotors $15 each (coated to resist rust) Raybestos Coated Calipers $75 each minus $30 each core charge (you get $60 back when you return both old ones) Coated to reduce rust Akebono Ceramic Pads (OEM supplier) $43 Above does not include taxes or shipping When asking for quotes ask about part brands, where they get parts. Chain auto stores usually don't have coated rotors or Calipers in stock and some places may use the uncoated versions. Personally I won't put any uncoated brake parts on any of my cars now.

Jo - you could also ask for a shop recommendation in a new thread - someone may know a soob-friendly mechanic near Westerly good luck

cars101 look under security stuff they have all the possibilities listed there. make sure to verify which system you had - 98 was a transition year or close to it in terms of security. i've had a 99 or two where i couldn't seem to match, find, or get anything to work.

My big hound sits happily in the passenger seat of the brumby with her head sticking out the window. She loves it !

Another sweet pic thread, nice :cool: My current 92 legacy My old 92 LS outbacked legacy My SVX 54k five speed swap (now sold) And my current WRX And one of my favorite foresters ever. Bratman18's

cool! I've been trying, but have had a lot of bad files....

I'm probably going to try and d/l as much as I can, because who knows when that site may go down.

Thanks, I'll try it!

Guess who...

Just email them to Mick. He'll handle it from there.

I'm a steel fabricator and we use K-Wool over a weld so that it cools down slower. You can put a 1" piece of this stuff in front of a blowtorch and your hand on the other and not feel a thing. Perhaps something like that stuffed into the heat shield would be a good solution, my only concern may be that the pipe itself would get TOO hot! It would definitely lengthen the time the vehicle takes to cool off.

This question comes up a lot. The post by ferret in the following thread sums it up quite nicely (at least for North American 4 cyl engines). Thanks ferret. Is my engine interference, or non-interference? There are other posts that go deeper, ie whether pistons hit valves, or valves hit each other, or both. I don't have a link for that, but if someone knows of one, msg me and I'll add it to this post. Commuter