DaveT

The "flat washer" is a spring washer, it isn't flat. The concave side goes against the cone washer. To avoid the problems at the beginning of this very old thread, make sure the nut is tight. Re check it a few drives later, also.

A seal couldn't stop the engine. A bearing seize up could, but I've never heard of a bearing seizing without loosing oil or overheat. And it wouldn't have cranked immediately after it quit.

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I miss read when I wrote my reply. Had to rethink. Sounds like the threads are totally stripped out. If it's an EA82. A tap should fit in the space. But you have to use a wrench to turn it, not a typical tap handle. The drill is the problem. Only thing I can think of is a small right angle drill / adapter, with a very short bit.

Well, with the distributor side belt off, it won't start. The other side, it might run really crappy. I don't know why it would be frozen, without a bunch of other typical severe overheat symptoms.

88 should be spfi, no choke. Unless there is a variation I don't know about... The coolant temp sensor can cause weird random idle variations intermittently. Without causing the ECU to show a code.

They tend to wear that way with stock also. I saw a thread on here a while back were someone modded the suspension to mitigate the uneven wear.

I first did that solenoid mod around 1990. I am still using the SAME solenoids in the EA82s I have now.

Fuel pump repair: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/fuelpump.html

Here is another one I came up with: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html How to fix the 35 & 34 error codes for good, and still have the systems working.

I got a pair of the sachs also. They came with the ride height adjustment. Back when there was a difference, that was what it was. 4wd could be adjusted 1 inch higher than 2wd.

It won't fit through the small hole. The section with the fan switch and buttons comes off without removing the entire dash. If no one else replies before tonight, I can look at more specifically how to get the piece it mounts in off. It might be the trim piece around the top section and instruments.

If you have a hose / port, etc. sucking air, cap it off somehow. Then no worry of dirt getting sucked into the engine. Anything is better than nothing.

First thing to do. After doing nothing to draw power from the battery for several hours - measure the voltage. 12.0 or less = fully discharged, forget starting. 12.6 fully charged. If it is 12.6 or more, turn something on - parking lights, 4ways, headlights. The voltage should drop a few tenths while the item/s are on. This tests the battery and the connections, with the exception that once in a great while, a connection can be dirty enough to stop cranking level current, but still allow headlights to work. Checking the connections does not only mean tightening the nuts / screws / etc. Make sure they are clean, wires are in the crimps good, not corroded, no evidence of heating. Once clean, a small amount of wheel bearing grease prevents corrosion.

Check for loose connection s in the charging system. Loyale alternators. Every one I have had runs about 150,000 miles and then one of the brushed has worn out, causing diminished output. No dashboard indication of the failure. Eventually the battery is discharged to the point it won't crank the engine.

Be careful removing from the heater core end. I'm not 100% sure about older than 86, but the tubes on those are fairly easy to crush. Better to just cut off the hose with a sharp knife. Don't score the tube, though. I might not bother draining the system in those conditions. I've found using a little plumber's silicon grease on the fittings when you put on the new hoses makes them removable.

I had an 86 GL wagon with manual regulators. All other newer ones I've owned had electric.

Setting 1 on the blower. Uses the smallest resistor in the speed control. It often burns out. It can be fixed or replaced. 2 screws hold the resistor block in the duct in the blower housing. Near the motor.

I had to relocate my Subaru pages, since my ISP dropped providing personal web hosting. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/subarumenu.html Most of the Subaru stuff is working.

That's what I was thinking. The pipe is smaller than my Loyales pipes were, and I made my own 2" system for those.

Also look for a hole or leak in the exhaust before the second O2 sensor.

Some of the car parts stores will read the trouble codes for you. There are also low cost code readers available now.

Wife comes home, saying car is noisy. I listen to it. Look at the exhaust. One of the mufflers input pipes has broken off the flange. And I notice the 1 thin pipe comes from the catalytic, back to a y. Then to 2 *different* mufflers. Form over function stuff drives me nuts. Grr.

Also, beware - the CTS can fail in ways that the ECU doesn't see as an error code event.

Here is one I recently came up with. The way the front fender and mud flaps come together at the bottom, just ahead of the doors, is a "self destruct by rust system". I modified the mud flaps by cutting off the rear part that traps dirt and moisture and holds it in contact with the bottom of the fender. I also used a piece of the cut off to weld into the hole that was made in the flap to clear the corner of the fender. So now, water and crud flying off of the tire won't get sprayed in to that [no longer existing] pocket, and the joint where several layers of steel that make the rocker panel and fender meet. I cut the fender to clear the mud flap, since there is no longer a hole in the flap. The other layers don't get in the way of the mud flap. The cut in the fender also should allow crud the gets into the space between the frame and the fender to fall out. I'm still thinking of opening that up more, but for now it is better than factory. Make sure that the thin plastic liner is layered correctly so the water is lead outside the fender, not inside. I used POR15 and Waxoyle to protect the various parts during re assembly. Replace all of the steel fasteners with stainless.