DaveT

Use a photo editor, and resize them, or sometimes even a crop and save as .Jpg will reduce the size enough. Most of the plastic pin things are 2 part, the center button unscrews or lifts up and releases the outer piece that has bumps that lock them in place.

Lots of threads on ej swap in the older generation forum. Go past an ej22 fi, and you will need to swap the rest of the driveline to avoid breaking things. Especially with bigger tires. It's about 40% power increase over an ea82.

Coolant hoses are damaged by oil. Scrap all of them. Not worth the risk.

Oh, no, I did not mean to imply running the engine in that condition!

Es, torch cam do it also, but way easier to go over temp and cook something that shouldn't be. Probably not a big deal for a full reseal, but I've had cases where I only need to pull the intake, didn't want to risk cooking a seal or whatever. It's faster to just let the engine run to get it warmed, if it runs....

I don't know 98s. You will have a lot more people see questions regarding the outback in the newer generation sub forum.

For specific questions, the best sub forum would be the older generation one. More activity there.

Use a space heater, heat gun and a meat thermometer to get the entire engine close to nreal operating temperature. Then carefully work the bolts loose. I got some very crusty intake and headbolts out with this method. The egr pipe also.

I've heard of many disasters with easyouts... Probably better to use a left hand drill. If it doesn't come out while drilling, easy out is a big risk of getting a piece of hardened steel stuck in the bolt. I'd wait util someone can confirm this.

Unless you are hearing bad sounds, I'd probably try new headgaskets. Thise old wagon wheel rims.... I had those. The only place that could balance them was a local Subaru dealer. Now I just have the oem ones with hubcaps.

The easiest way is to transplant the pedal assembly from the standard shift car.

Try posting on the buy sell section? It's going to be hard to find anyplace that still has these old parts. Maybe carpart.com? Other people on here that have turbos may know of a place. One of the things I've done to deal with this sort of problem, is is be watching for local cars. I've had things happen a few times - Back when I was driving my 76 and it was around 10-15yrs old - A guy saw me in a parking lot and long story short, sold me a 78 for $1.00. I didn't need it, but it was a bunch of parts. Another time, similar thing - a guy saw me with my old GL, his family was closing their small repair shop. Had several GLs and parts out back. "Go take whatever you want." I got a few sets of usable fenders, couple of heads, and other removable engine parts. Headlights, etc. Spent a day pulling off whatever I could, and that I figured might someday need. I tried to arrange a car trailer to grab a whole car, but the plans fell through. point is always be watching, and ready to jump.

The one I had that cracked, the coolant was dripping out of the exhaust port. Replacing the heads / headgaskets can be done with the engine in the car. I prefer to pull it and have easier access to everything, but I have the setup and space for doing it.

Probably a weber. Depending on what car you have, try asking on the old gen or new gen sub forum.

I don't know that model. That does soND weird. Like maybe the always on power for the clock and memory isn't getting to the radio. More people will see tech questions for a crosstrek in the new gen forum.

I can't see the spray when looking, the angles don't allow it. I did see fuel hitting the plate, and traveling outward to the edges. Things need to be tested checked measured, not just replaced. That method costs more than a meter and a vacuum gauge.

The best thing I have found that helps avoid snapping bolts is getting the engine to near normal operating temperature. By running, or a space heater and a heat gun, and a meat thermometer. Then carefully loosening by gradually working sticky ones back and forth. The headers are held on by studs with nuts. Don't use bolts, as it's way easier to strip the threads in the heads.

On the handful of ea82s I have had, resealing the oil pump fixed it. Possibly also the cam tower orings, as a couple were included in reaeal due to leaking oil everywhere, and or headgasket damage from running low on coolant. Use 10w-40 oil.

Nothing interchangeable that I know of. Short of an ej swap, but that's not interchangeable. Maybe a few bolts.

Why bad rings? Did something really bad happen to it? 90K miles is nothing. I've driven a couple past 200K. Maybe bad overheat or some other big disaster could damage the rings. Or years of total crap oil? Even that would have to be extreme. Here's why I say extreme- I had an engine that survived a bad overheat. It survived a few 30 minute drives at 4000RPM with 50/50 mixture of synthetic oil and water in the crank case! But after I resealed it, it burned oil like crazy. Like a quart per tank of gas crazy. It had an Amsoil bypass filter on it also. Since I have other engine in better shape, I just kept topping it off with whatever cheap oil I could find, alternating with used oil from other cars, ATF, different weights, you name it. It ran great. For years. The only thing that stopped me from running it was one of the heads cracked to the point where during an 8 hour day at work, 16oz of water would leak out of the head while parked. I have yet to fully disassemble it, but I did take off the cracked head. The factory hone marks are still in the cylinder bore.

I'd have to check my fsm. More people with loyales will see your post on the older generation forum, best to start a new thread. The most accurate way to check for sneak current is to disconnect a battery terminal and put a running lamp bulb in series. It will glow depending on how much current is being drawn. Then pull fuses until it goes out. Also pretty common failure is alternator output rectifier. Disconnect the heavy white wire on the back of the alternator to check that one.

Headgaskets typically fail to outside of block and coolant passage. You really have to cook one to get coolant in the oil. I'm not specifically familiar with turbos. Technically, anything is repairable but my hunch is that it's cheaper to find a usable head, if it turns out that it is cracked. Try to verify the exhaust gaskets are all sealed. Need to find the coolant leak under the hood, if it is that. If it's a bad exhaust leak, then the smoke could be coming from it and obviously out the tailpipe also. The smoke out the exhaust could be a cracked head or bad intake gasket. Maybe pull the exhaust off the heads, look up the ports for coolant dripping down....

Exactly what happens when the sensor partially fails in a way that tells the engine it is cold all the time. Engines don't run well with the mixure balanced for a cold engine when warm. Or the reverse.

Unlikely. Fsm should have the test procedure for all of those sort of parts.

Cts can cause drivability issues without triggering a code. It has no effect on the gauge, that's run by a 1 wire sensor.