86ruguy

i was informed by a very well trusted subie tech not to go over 35 with it in low range

welcome to the age of ELECTONICS:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

the sheilding is so that the signal from the cam sensor to the ECU does not get any interference from anything around it. if the sheilding is messed up on the wiring then you NEED TO FIX IT first

first off welcome to the board. second, check to see if there is any trace of brake fluid under the master cylinder....if there is then i would suspect that the master cylinder is bad. even if there is not fluid under there i would suspect that the master cylinder is bad

the fact that your donor is 10/94 prob makes it definitely obd1....so that makes it a lot easier i posted a couple of pics of my 95 harness in my gallery....it may be hard to tell but this harness has a lot more to it. still let me know if you need any more help. i'll do my best. btw...mine did not have to do emissions either so i cut out both cats that came on the legacy exhaust(which fit under the car until i could get my 2 1/4 in exhaust)

my first ? is, are you using the engine and trans out of your donor car or are you sticking with the original trans? second, i did the swap using a 95 motor and was going to use the harness and ecu from the 95. i found out however that the 95 is OBD2 and that it involves a few more sensors than i wanted to deal with. ie: it has two O2 sensors, and i was told that the car would never pass emissions if i did not connect the fuel tank sensor that is in the 95's gas tank. so what i did is, i went to the PAP and got the ecu and intake with injectors and TB, and the COMPLETE (can't stress that enough) wiring harness with the ignition relay and the FP relay and used that. the only wires that i had to actually connect to my factory wiring were the 1) battery power (key off) 2) ignition power ( key on) 3) every possible ground from the new harness. 4) you'll also have to replace the fuel pump with one that pushes at least 45 psi(do not hook this up to the factory FP wiring in the car as you will have to deal with the lack of fuel that i had) 5) if you want, i have wiring diagrams that A VERY KIND AND HELPFUL SUBERDAVE gave me that i can e-mail to you. i hope this helps good luck and may the SUBIES be with you dave

:headbang: :burnout: :cool:

your welcome and may the subes be with you.

first off nice car....second, if i'm thinking correctly the RX's were still 1.8's right? so this intercooler setup will work on a turbo wagon....eh?

yeah i'll drive the wheels off of it until the motor blows then i'll do an EJ20 swap and yes it has diff lock daeron, check this http://westpalmbeach.craigslist.org/car/189168985.html

well after a trip to PAP and a trip to SUBERDAVE's (thanks again dave:headbang: )...my new (to me ) 88 gl10 turbo wagon is up and running for a total of about 2 c-notes...WAAAAAHOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it's got a little pull to the right so i am going to have to look at the suspension and see if maybe something got bent or what ...but i can drive it.

that's alright about the temp gauge, i was going to stuff a real one in it anyway

well i am now the proud owner of the 88 gl10 that was posted on craigs list...gave the guy $5.00 for it...he rear ended a toyota tundra and banged up the front pretty good but it is all fixable.....heres to subie project 2:drunk: :drunk: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=18606

pretty rad stuff dude...just wish i had realized there was audio before the 3.30 mark

WELL I FINALLY GOT NEW EXHAUST ON THE WAGON:banana: AFTER THE EJ22 SWAP AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A F***IN WRX:headbang: EXCEPT FOR THE BLOW OFF VALVE SOUND:-\ ....I PUT 2 1/4 FROM THE "Y" PIPE ALL THE WAY BACK. WITH THE NEW EXHAUST IT SEEMS TO BREATHE A LOT BETTER.

i'm in....will call to confirm times dave

from what i have gathered, you have to use the xt6 stuff in the rear because of how the top of the coil- over mounts to the body on the EA cars.

i concure...where's the sender?

i am curious....are you going to be using the intake off the 2.5? or will you be getting a complete motor? if you are getting a complete motor then you should not have to worry about egr on the 2.2 unless your 2.5 has a sensor on top of the egr valve....a non-egr engine will not benefit from adding egr to it....the motor i used in my ej-ea swap was a 95 ( not sure what month) and it had egr and i dont remember seeing a senson for the egr. the guys at jiffy lube may not know your car is supposed to have an egr if there is no pipe from the head or valve itself on the intake.

first question i have is why are you going from EJ25 to EJ22? is your ej25 sohc or dohc? egr is not the only issue to deal with depending on your answer

i say #4

well i guess i'm not needed then?

give me a call..sent pm

i would like to attend in my ej swapped ea 82 wagon if that is cool????

the backing plates keep debri like rocks and stuff off your rotors, if they are that rusted then find another set or you could just clean them up and paint them