The Scooby

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my girlfriend has a 87 like that but silver, turbo auto 4x4. i just finished rebuilding the engine, having the turbo rebuilt, etc etc. has over 400K on the orignal drivetrain when the head finally went and i did the full rebuild. her dad bought it when it was new off the lot with less then 1 mile on it. i love the freaking thing too.

88 SPFI wagon, RWD 5sp with slipping clutch, no a/c but has power steering. i can get atleast 325 on a tank of 87, dont bother running anything else. i love it, only have to fill up like once every 3 weeks to a month.

ya know my 88 GL was towed and i was thinking of just signing it over to them and buying another car, but after reading this story i decided to go bail her out. i got the car with $1000. ya thats right, i got the car for free plus they gave me $1000. and latly i had been thinking of making it RWD and a ghetto drifter, but after the snow we are getting i think its going to get lifted.

yes you can, i went to a wrecking yard and cut the plugs from the stock harness and the O2 sensor, then flipped them around and wired them together for a pigtail harness. spliced the signal wire into the white wire in my harness and plugged it all together. works great on my 92 turbo legacy, or Liberty RS in ausie land

i put 94 impreza seats in my 86 GL about 3 years ago back when i worked at aaron's auto wrecking (subaru only place) all i had to do was bolt the GL brackets onto the seat frame in the front and redrill the rear holes on the seat frame and put in bolts/nuts. alot better then the stock seats that where lacking in foam at that point.

ok the 88 spfi wagon i got that i plan on lifting and having for a trail rig needs a clutch. what would be a good clutch for off-roading, ether going with a stock XT6 settup, or what. thanks, shean

so what... just pull out one axel when on the street then toss it back in off road when im wheeling with a welded diff... i think ill just pull the 3.90 VLSD out of my 91 turbo legacy for my trail rig then, i really dont want to have to swap in an axel on the side of the road just to wheel then take it out when im done, im just too lazy to do that and i like to do stuff on the spurr of the monent.

well since my turbo legacy is gonna be down for a little while this will be my daily driver, so i cant run studded tires, or a welded rear diff, basically i just want to be able to clear most deep ruts, and hit the mud and have fun. i think im going to just put on some snow tires, roll the fenders, and put on a skid plate and go beat it up for now until i can afford a 3inch lift, pug 15's, and some tsl ss's

ok im getting another older scooby again, im putting my 92 sport sedan in the garage to do some major stuff, anyways im picking up an 88gl spfi 5sp w/ d/r and $1k for my 94 legacy, i want to build this into a nice trail rig with least amount of money into it. i dont care about bashing out fender wells, i just want to run some agressive tires for some mud pits, trail riding and just goofing around, nothing really agressive. prefer not to lift simply because i dont have that kind of scratch to throw into this car. so whats a good set of tires for the stock 13's? i was thinking of destudded snow tires. or if i can find a way to get it lifted cheaply than i was be good with that also, so if you guys have any ideas or tips please let me know.

you wont see any hp/tq gain, or spool time in a turbo, all it does is add more alochol to the mix in your gas tank, and too much is bad, there is a reason that there is only a certain amount of alochol in your gas. also octane boosters because its adding more alochol will eat up your oxygen sensors, and your cats. if you going to put anything in any system in your car to clean it out, the best is sea-foam, i have no affiliations with them but its a proven fact to clean out your systems the best, also NEVER use Restore, metal flakes in the oil is bad, so why would you add more into your egine?

the only really thing you can do is to put in a resistor in-line with your CTS, to trick the computer to put in more fuel and getting more performance. Shean PS even if you do ice the intake or anything like that, it will still heat up by the conductivity of the aluminum of the engine.

no offence but no matter what pressure your running, the ecu will see that pressure and back off the time in milliseconds that the injectors stay on, we did this on a car at school today to help to prove the point i was making, it doesn't matter what pressure your running it will always come down to the ECU to control the amount of fuel entering the cylnder.

if your directing that at me, yes it is cold, BUT that is usually shot in at the end of the intake runner right at the back of the intake valve, or a dry kit, which shoots such a small amount it is reheated by the time it enters the cylnder.

no offence josh, but i HIGHLY doubt its bad rings, engines build in the last 15-20 years have a evtremely small chance of mechanical failure, they are more prone to electrical failure, ie sensors/wiring

the purge solnoid can purge it at any time other then idle, it uses your unburnet fuel HC's (hydrocarbons) and puts them back into your intake to be burnt, which bacically increaces your engine efficency/mpg

hey i hate to burst your bubble but, cars are built to make their most power with an air intake charge of 120-128 degrees F, if its too cold the atomized fuel will fall out of suspension, and too hot, well less power, so there is a VERY fine line on what you can do. but putting fans in, its just a air restriction, just like taking out your cats, cars are made to work with back pressure, plus the car will run BETTER and have more output power with cats on. so i would say ether turbo the car, or leave the stock air intake alone.

ya hate to tell you but upping your fuel pressure that much wont show any gains BECAUSE, your ECU is what controls the length of time the injector stays open, not the fuel pressure. if you want to see some hp/tq gains put in some lerger injectores and run about 7-15psi higher then STOCK, and that will be plenty, putting that much pressure on your stock injectores will most likly just blow the seals in it. they are made to operate at a certain psi, along with your fuel rails/fuel lines, and pushing that much pressure on a car that old with the stock components (most likly) just isnt smart.

sorry but i doubt its an Oxygen sensor, it sounds like your TPS is bad or damaged, or the IAC is bad, i would take it to autozone and if its showing codes have them reed them, then come back, and if its not showing codes, then i would say do a good tune up. also how old are your cats, and how many miles on the car. another thing that is VERY IMPORTANT, these octane boosters and such, dont use them, the added alochol that they put into your gas tank is bad for cat's, there is a reason that the government puts a certain amount of alochol in gas, it is VERY corrosive and it will eat up your cats like nothing, there is no performance gain, no better gas milage and if you do get a better running car then there is some larger problem that you have with your car.

i doubt its your TPG, but to find out hood up a DMM (digital Multi Meter) to the TPS, with the throttle plate closed it should read 0v and at wot (wide open throttle) it should read close to 5v. if it goofs up in any time that you are SLOWLY opening the throttle, or spikes or anything like that, the TPS is bad. but it sounds like your IAC (idle air controller) is bad. Good Luck, Shean

DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT USE RESTORE, let me ask you this, is it good to have metal shavings in your oil? then why would you add metal shavings into your oil when you add restore? ya it may seat the rings or do what ever, but then it causes premature wear in the cylnders because of those added shavings and i would bet you will be finding your self a new turbo/engine in under a year.

dont waste your money on Bosch plus, the platnum 4's, any time in the normal driving rpms the spark hits the side not the end of the probe, its only upper RPM it hits the end, also the bosch's that have more then one electrice probe, or per say split fires, are a waste because they thake up the area around the electrodes, meaning that its less air/fuel mixture to be around that spark energy, meaning less spark distribution. if you want plugs that will last and be best bang for your buck, get NGK's or Denso platnum or iridum plugs for our cars. bosch plugs are made for AIR COOLED ENGINES ONLY. if you want more information on this please PM me.

i thought it was but now i look closer and i think it says maxima on the back, oh well, sorry for the disapoitment

dont they wish they had a lift and some 33's now huh...

you can run up to a 225/45/17 on it with no problems.