carfreak85

Will the center diff portion of an RX transmission bolt on the rear of a regular EA82 5 speed? I assume there is no ring gear or ratios to match up in the center diff.

Is this what you're running on your brat? How much would you remove to acheive 1-3* neg camber?

The EA81T has it's own bespoke ECU and wiring. It is a multiport injection design with different heads than a standard EA81.

I wonder how much this is going to drive up the price of a real brat?

The engine is soon to be abaondoned. I still have another turbo car, so if the engine doesn't make it in the '75, I'll still have a back up for the wagon, sorry.

Not tons, but enough to get any Gen 1 moving pretty quick. I'm shooting for 150hp in my 84 wagon, but I don't think upwards of 180hp is out of the question. This could be a possible project as I have an 84 T-coupe that wants an EJ20 turbo and my brother just bought a 75ish 4wd wagon that wants the soon to be abandoned EA81T engine. Oh, you just started the gears turning, Sir!

Have you tried fitting those VW flares on an EA81?

There is only one way to find out!!

Wish I could help. Good luck finding any published data on a turbo of that vintage, especially one as forgetable as the VF7. Its a small turbo to be sure and pretty much anything will be bigger.

Heluva engine, but I doubt that rig has ever turned a wheel in anger, a pity too... One of the nicest lifted soobs I've ever seen.

That is so photoshopped, its not even funny. Get me another pic of the same car to compare, but that is too fake to beleive.

Two of my EA81s came with crank driven fans and the PS was part of the AC/alternator bracket but then again, both those cars are turbo...

Thanks for all the input guys! This is one hurdle I never want to jump again. The story goes that we were trying to get this car running, and thinking the timing might be off, we set about checking it. The mark on the crank pully was too small to be seen with our timing light. When we did get it timed, the disty was adjusted WAY over, so to find out if the timing mark was in the right spot, I stuck the pencil in and hand turned the engine to check TDC (Paul wins the guessing game!). SNAP!!! Broken pencil and bruised ego... What do you guys think about just starting the engine and hoping the peices get blown out? Oh, this was the end of a colored pencil, so there is no metal in the cylinder.

There is a ling story behind this that I won't go into. I would like to get some suggestions on how to remove an inch long peice of a pencil from an EA81 cylinder. Any creative ways this could be done? I'd like to avoid pulling the head if possible since the engine was just rebuilt, but if thats the only safe way to do it, so be it. Thanks in advance!

+1 Bring the bracket to the JY and try to find a jack that does fit.

The weber will fit, but you have to use the shorty filter on it to clear the hood.

Sweet man! I remember reading about that rebuild and wondering how it was going to work out. Sounds like you have a future master mechanic on your hands!!

What about us local folks with multiple hangers? Need any trades?

That sounds like you are describing the torque split on the auto trannys. A viscous diff in a 5 speed box is simply a limited slip device, it doesn't alter the distribution of torque (in its most basic forms, ie viscous). Rather the center differential in a subaru will try to keep one output from out accelerating the other, front to rear in this case. The only comparison I can give is between my 84 wagon with an EA82 d/r tranny and the WRX I auto x. With the wagon in 4wd, the car is a bit more difficult to turn in because the system starts binding. The viscous diff in the WRX allows a slight differential in speeds of the two ends of the car, making it a little easier to turn in. An open center diff would have the least effect on the handling of the car, and would be adequet for the modest output of an EA82, but in a WRX or RS, you need to harness the traction a little better.

MS = MegaSquirt: http://www.megasquirt.info/

I've only ever run a WRX, but when my wagon gets back on the ground I'll take it out for a spin around the cones.

I think their close to that, if not smaller. On my wagon I used 5.25" speakers in custom mounts because there is little clearence for large magnets on the rear doors. Custom mounts would be needed for front door speakers if they were mounted on the leading edge (where there is no clearence) or right next to the front seat (where there is clearence).

I've used 3.5 and 4x6s in the fronts of my cars and would suggest the 4x6s. The smaller speakers tend not to sound as good. Fitment is tight on the driver's side, but if you fiddle with it, the speaker will fit. I drilled out the chassis of the new speaker to the stock passenger's side speaker mounting pattern and it works like a charm. I also used this opportunity to run REAL speaker wire to the speakers and converted to multi-ground speaker wiring.

There are tons of legacys, if it were a gen 1 or 2 I'd be pissed too, but there are still tons running around. That video was hilarious if you ask me!

I haven't driven my 5 speed car for a while due to a few problems that developed after WCSS8, but I love it. I came from a 3 speed auto in that car so the difference was huge. I don't have to downshift on the freeway to pass, and having extra ratios means I can keep the engine in its powerband, even if some of those gears are overdriven. To summerize this entire thread, DO THE SWAP!!!!