Reveeen

I always likes VW's mechanical fuel injection. Ok so go that way, or Volvo, the mechanical system on a early Volvo is probably easily adapted. Myself, I would be tempted to go side draft on a home made manifold, just transplanting a pair of side draft carbs "as is" (linkage, spacing, and all) and make a manifold. Or a pair of motorcycle carbs and extended cables to two 90 degree bends (or spigots). The thing of it is that multiple carb set-ups are a *************** to "balance", but once balanced they should work out fine. None of this stuff is written in stone, you get some stuff you are familiar with, and make it fit.

Check around and see if you can get Beck Arnley locally, they supply an OEM pump. http://www.beckarnley.com/

I'm up on 31's, with a 6" lift, another 1" in the suspension, and offset wheels, but my 31'a are narrow, 215/85/16, no rubbing with trimmed fenders.

The thing is a pig in a poke. There is no provision for timing adjustment, just fuel "fooling". If you wanted fuel "fooling" just use an adjustable fuel regulator.

A bicycle store will become your friend. There you will find all manner of cables, solder-on cable ends, and cable adjusters, to make almost anything you want to dream up, work. Let's stop to consider that motorcycle manufacturers only went to FI when they had to meet emissions, not before. The main reason I figure cars got away from multi carb set-ups was that the average mechanic couldn't get them to work. And we must *remember* the first production N. America FI set-up was an absolute pig (found on the Corvette). For a daily driver I don't *think* you can beat FI, but for "toys", you have lots of time to "play".

Should be close, try it and watch the plugs (colour).

I may be ignorant, but 16 sound like a hell-of-a-lot Lots of "fun" in the snow.......................... I'd go for more, but there are a lot of miles on this engine, if it was "fresher" I'd go for 20-25. "Thirsty" though, driving like a total idiot, I'm lucky to see around 8mpg, usual seems to be around 20mpg in town/32mpg highway.

307,000 miles here on original head gaskets ('91 EJ22T). I'm "boosting" 16psi regularly, but I'm careful, and pay attention to the small stuff before it becomes big stuff.

Mcbrat told me about the hole with the screw and nyloc nut trick. works with stock mounts when they fall apart. I was going to make something, but figured WTF, with a new mount I know that is no longer a problem. If you move everything forward a couple of inches you will be into the rad. I have 31" tires here and they just clear the structure, I cut away the fender bottoms (everything below the mounting tab on the hinge pillar) and am running fender flares.

When I did mine, I made a bracket that re-located the shifter stay bar up 6" (on the transmission), then I just lengthened the shifter shaft. The rear shifter body mount literally fell apart when I went to remove it, the rubber had "un-bonded" itself from the two plates, I could not shift it without the mount (it was $30 from the dealer, I had no choice, the one on my other car was in the same condition).

I have no idea what you have. The "pesky" things for a 6" lift are: Rear brake hoses, front brake lines (the extensions and couplers), you will have to mess with the exhaust, mess with the shift linkage (the rear shifter mount becomes critical, if yours is bad get another/new), extend the steering shaft 5 1/2", the E brake cables just make it (so be careful), disconnect the speedometer cable (rather than pull it apart), rad hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines (feed and return), vacuum hoses (charcoal canister and engine to firewall). That's all I can think of.

Quick question(s): Picture an outer axle carrier, front, Legacy, now where the strut mounts, instead there is an adapter that bolts through the strut mounting holes, giving a upper ball joint mount for a upper control arm. If you wish you can take the time and trouble to down load this: http://blackjackzero.com/media/buildguide.pdf Page 10 top right picture What is that piece called? Can I buy one somewhere, or am I making them? Ok, it would appear I am looking for a "spindle adapter bracket" as can be seen here: http://www.mustangandfords.com/projectbuild/mufp_0612_factory_five_cobra_roadster_part_7/photo_11.html That one being for a Ford Mustang. I also struck a website where they are modding a GM car of some sort. What they did was cut a strut, and weld in a machined top (plug), with a 3/4 grade 8 bolt sticking out (welded there) to which they attached a swivel end.

I suspect that the mounts are not as rigid as they could be, and the mounts themselves flex, cracking any kind of applied coating, allowing rust to start in virtually all situations.

Replace. Leaks at the (dust) boots are a sign of an internal leak, to be honest I have never re-built a rack, but understand that an internal leak is usually caused by ram/cylinder scoring, stuff you can't fix "at home".

It seems to me: That usually the operating temperature of an engine, providing the cooling system is in decent shape, is 10 degrees above the thermostat rating. (eg. 170= operating temperature of 180) @160, or an operating temp of 170 degrees, I find in colder climates, 170 degrees is not warm enough to "heat out" condensation in your engine, meaning I find the oil gets water (or moisture) contaminated in short order (or what I call "the greys"). You can seem to get away with it in summer, but not in winter.

s'ko and I got into a discussion about this very thing............ http://www.rqriley.com/doran.html Though I have a turbocharged Saab set-up "in my pile" that I was thinking a bit more "traditional" with this: http://www.freewebs.com/jzrusa/ (after the Loyale off roader, the V-6 motorcycle, and the diesel scooter)

How "lucky" are you/do you feel today? If it was mine I would throw a belt at it and hope. But, not being lucky when it comes to cars, you know.

5W is too light an oil for the old junk I drive. (wondering that maybe 5W is not heavy enough to wash metals out)

Down this end of the country you are likely looking at "Spectra Radiator" http://strategis.ic.gc.ca/app/ccc/search/navigate.do?language=eng&portal=1&subPortal=&estblmntNo=234567032844&profile=completeProfile To be honest: A rad from an older Subaru will fit (1988 DL) and is better/cheaper, being an all copper rad. The water outlet at the bottom is different maybe needing a rad hose from the same '88 (I don't know, but will be there come spring). I do know Cdn Tire seems to put them 1/2 price once a month.

+1 on moving the injector to another location (make sure you have replacement "O" rings and manifold seal on hand, 2 O rings per injector, 1 seal) O rings- 16698-aa030 Seal- 16608-aa020 Beck-Arnley offers rebuilt injectors, best price here is $62, wait 1 month.

PVC "T's" will be fine. You want to pay attention to the quality of hose you use in the PCV system, as engine vacuum (under high vacuum conditions, just when you need a working PCV system) can cause "lesser" hose to collapse (or be sucked shut), effectively making all your work for nothing. Most auto parts stores sell hose designed specifically for PCV applications.

What kind of outside temperature? One outstanding feature of the Weber 32/36 is when conditions are "right" (just above "dew point") (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point) they will freeze solid as an ice cube without a source of pre-heated air. The next time it happens, stop and look down the carb throat, one peek will tell the tale.

But.............. What about "over fueling"? I have none of the symptoms of an injector leak (hard starting), but suspect I am over fueling, though my highway gas mileage isn't bad. What I am seeing: black tail pipe (though no black smoke) awfully thin oil at oil change time The cold start function appears to be working fine, in fact I wish it would hold on a bit longer, because it's off before the engine is warm. Any, all thoughts are appreciated

Seems to me we have been here before? Unit body cars have two kinds of sheet metal. Structure and decoration. Structure has to be fixed properly, as in sandblasting, welding, and painting. Decoration is up to you. a larger area inside the door near the hinges I would consider "structure" and treat accordingly.

I can't recall even seeing a B210 for 20 years, likely when the number naming system died @ Datsun/Nissan, it just morphed into something else. I drove Toyotas at the time (rolly Corollies), where there was a stripped down version of the Corolla (plain interior, small engine, no options), that was their entry level car. There is a write up here: http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php?title=Rear_Axle_Swaps Down near the bottom of the page: B210 - 1974 3.90 (north american) (other years are different) Datsun Competition (later Nismo) used to sell various ratios: 3.545, 3.7, 3.9, 4.111. Datsun 1200 rear axle assembly width is 1305 mm drum to drum. The H145 diff has a maximum torque capacity of 100ft/lbs