Numbchux

yea, changing the engine isn't going to change anything. if your rack is geared not to have it, you'll be fine. now....the quicker-ratio power steering racks, with no power assist.....that sucks.

just wire it up as-is, and re train your brain. the gauge functions, you can still tell when the car is warming up, up to temperature, and overheating. just in a different place on the gauge. but if you try the resistor, I would love to hear how it goes. mathematically, it should work fine. and doesn't look too hard to do, but I don't remember anyone actually doing it.

yea, 13x4.5 and 4x140 sounds like stock wheel dimensions for any non-justy 4-lug subaru.

yea, you don't have to take apart the input, so if it isn't leaking, I wouldn't bother (taking this apart effects the gear mesh.....I messed with it once, and got it wrong.....eek). side seals are a good idea, but I've re-used without problem. just a thin bead of RTV around the rear cover, and you're good to go. and yea....the correct fluid is a good idea.

welcome to the USMB. if you have a look through this very same section, you'll notice a thread entitled "EJ-EA Power Steering". you'll find the answers you seek there. seriously. it was discussed in depth like 3 days ago. it's barely halfway down the page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104879

the rear axles aren't one piece through the bearings and hub like the fronts. so if the nut is seized to the hub and such, you can pound the pin out, and slide it off. or, if it's the pin that's seized, you can pound the spindle out with it just like a front axle. getting that nut off is just a matter of having a big enough breaker bar but yea, '85/'86 EA82s have dual-DOJ rear axles that can be disassembled from either end. all others just from the inside. so yea, you could do it lying under the car. but I wouldn't...yuck

nope, the full-time dual-ranges are fairly rare, and only have a 1.2:1 low range. the part time ones are quite common, and have a 1.6:1.

99% of the dual-range trannies in the US are that way. only a handful of them are full-time dual range (locking center diff, no FWD option).

yep, fog lights. that orange one is a dealer-installed one. my '85 had 'em, the lights were smashed, but the button would light up when pushed (as long as the headlights were on).

Must-do? that totally depends on the condition of it. but really, if it ran, you wouldn't HAVE to do anything. I would probably do timing belt, front and rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, tbelt pullies, and water pump. as those are the common wear items that are 100x easier to replace with the engine out, than in a car. SOHC spark plugs are easy. 20 minute job, if you're drinkin a beer IIRC, Austin's '94 1.8 imp wagon had a 3.90 5MT.... Wiring is NOT plug and play. just because they're OBD I. legacy ECu is mounted under the steering column, and most of the wiring runs up the driver's side fender and plug into the engine near the battery. impreza ECU is mounted on the floor under the passenger's feet, and all the wiring goes through the firewall and plugs in to the engine above the passenger side head. plugs are different. you will be cutting, splicing, tracing, re-routing, etc. To do it well, you'll be pulling your dash, all the way to the firewall (dash cover, beam, all 3 HVAC sections. now's a good time to replace your heater core if you need to, or work on your A/C!). If you know your way around a wiring diagram, you'll be fine. but you'll probably be spending 10 hours on wiring alone.

Holy 3-year old thread, batman!!!

yep, pretty much. my XT6 is an Auto. I have no plans to change that, it's a great trans for daily driving, and even for more than a little screwing around. in the next month or so it'll be getting a rear LSD and center diff lock mod.

funny wagon looks funny swapping back to 4-lug. got the 3.9 rear end in, and 4-lug drums back on. obviously the gear ratios and tires don't match, so I left the rear axles out and locked the center, so it'll be FWD until I get the new engine/trans and front suspension swapped back. took a picture of the miata shocks/coilover springs compared to the stock rear stuff: car handles pretty goofy now....front sway bar is disconnected, turbo sedan rear bar. 250lb/in springs in the front, stock in the rear. RS 2-piston front brakes, GL drum brakes in the rear. 205/65r15 blizzaks on the front, 185/70r13 POS tires in the rear..... also improved my work conditions. went to Northern tool and grabbed this 10'x20' canopy on sale: and the parts car making it possible:

I was looking into this as I wanted to install a quick ratio Q-rack in my loyale. an EJ-series subaru steering rack will fit, but some modifications will need to be made to clear the fluid lines, and make sure the steering shaft comes out at the correct angle. also, EJ cars have a wider track than Ea82s. so the inner tie rods are a bit longer. you may want to swap your EA82 rods on there.

SPFI pump is plenty, assuming it's working . so check that. if you un-plugged your IAC and MAF, and got no change, those are not your issue. constant flashing CEL (while read connectors connected) means you have no codes. I wire the fuel relay power through the harness so the relay gets power straight from the battery, and is switched from the ECU. if the rest of the EJ harness is powered, the fuel pump *should* be as well. my next step (after fuel pump) would be to check the TPS. grab a multimeter and start testing the voltage coming off of it at different throttle levels. after that, I'd put the exhaust and 02 on there. it's gotta happen, and it can't hurt.....

that's for the HVAC control. not sure what the point of the canister is, but you need to hook that line up to a vacuum source on your EJ22 in order to select from heat, defrost, etc. code 12 is indeed for the starter switch. if this is not hooked up, it will not effect how the car runs once started. but it will make it very difficult to start in the cold (I daily drove my car for a year without it. battery died many times trying to crank it. but once it fired, it would run wonderfully). it is possible that it's getting 12v all the time, effectively leaving the choke on....this could make the engine stumble. I marked the starter signal wire (red with yellow stripe). make sure that's getting 12v only while cranking. There are a few wires going to the starter, a large one going from the solenoid to the + battery terminal, a large one going from the bracket to ground, and a smaller one going to a tab on the back of the solenoid (this is what mellow65 is referring to). Anywhere between that tab and the ignition switch will give you the signal you need. it does sound like a major post-maf air leak. all PCV and IAC lines connected? try un-plugging the MAF and IAC valves. this should throw it into a default mode that would allow it to run well. but I'd check into that starter signal first.

no. IIRC rex's use 4x114

an 02 sensor won't prevent it from idling. MAF will usually make it idle alright, but stumble and die when you open the throttle. have you checked for any codes yet? plug the black connectors together and the CEL will flash. should tell if/what is up.

huh....weird. I'll see if I can find some better diagrams to post....

ignition and fuel relays. pretty important where did you get the switched 12v from the EA harness? right at the switch like I suggested? did you make sure it's still got a good connection to all 3 wires (from the switch, to the EJ harness, to the rest of the EA harness)? I don't think I have a picture of an unwrapped, finished harness. but there aren't a whole lot of wires. probably 20 or so going up the fender to the engine harness, and 10-15 across the firewall (Crank/Cam sensor, knock, 02, ignitor, MAF).

fan speed issue is because of broken resistors in the resistor pack (bolted to the blower box under the glove box). This is very common....I found a new resistor pack on ebay a while ago for a reasonable price....but I'm sure it'll fail soon as well. Someone had a write-up years ago about soldering in some better resistors that don't heat up and fail as easily. the other is a vacuum issue. start by tracing the lines in the engine bay (as crazyman suggested). it's not uncommon for that line to slip off the intake manifold. There's a little metal guard over the lines to prevent pinching...so that probably isn't your problem. if you know you're getting vacuum to the switch, it could be the switch itself. it's a fairly simple mechanism, with little sliding plastic pieces, if these don't seal (there's some sort of grease on there that helps...but it seems that it usually dries up), you'll have problems. I tried a few different switches, with no luck.....so I did this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66673 that was 3 years ago. still running it like that. always just on Heat and Defrost. which works fine. I think I'll try the switch from my parts car in it before I sell it though.

haha, yep! That's the SlowTi . looks like you were expecting it to be faster :-\ I just realized I forgot to update this thread.....hehe....oops. well, being that we were in service all day, both days, we didn't see much action. this was about as exciting as it got: As a team though, we did pretty well. Friday was a little worrysome as Carl did get stuck for a while. just slid out of the center of the road and got hung up. sweep was able to push them out by hand.....Luckily they didn't take the time card so we didn't DNF. but, dead last of the finishers.... Saturday, however, went very very well. Carl and Dave kept bringing the car in in one pice, and it was obvious they were having a good time. the jitters from the roll in July and the little off at Ojibwe were gone, and they were back in the groove. We placed 16th of 20 finishers in the regional rally that day, but only a couple minutes behind Mason Moyle, our major Open Light rival this year. The important part, however, is they finished. Which means we now have enough coefficients that the Novice Rally America license is no longer necessary. so....the Open class build begins. shooting for 300awhp and 380-400tq for next year. we made it onto the subaru rally site! http://rally.subaru.com/event_2009_lspr_gallery.html some in-car footage: Herman [YOUTUBE]JOjLr2qqffQ[/YOUTUBE] Delaware 3 sorry about the buzz in the sound - we were getting feedback off the power inverter in the intercom system. [YOUTUBE]kwqExL3ga4g[/YOUTUBE] Jerry got a couple good shots of the car: his gallery: http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/LS09/

you say you're not getting any lights? Is everything on that should be when the key is "on" (dash, headlights, HVAC, etc.)?

anything fuel injected will be fine. I just used the stock pump in my loyale (already SPFI). in the '86 I did last summer, I found a pump for an early '90s Ford Grand Squire (crown vic wagon). it was inline, and had the same sized fittings as the subaru. I found a psi rating for them, and it was perfect, and assumed that the cfm would be enough being that it's designed for a 302 V8. anyway, I got one on ebay for like $30!

I've never done permanent damage to a master cylinder, and I almost never remember to pull the cap off the reservoir.... did you bleed all 4 calipers? did you do it in the right order (LR, RF, RR, LF)? soft pedal is usually a result of an air bubble.