Numbchux

ignition and fuel relays. pretty important where did you get the switched 12v from the EA harness? right at the switch like I suggested? did you make sure it's still got a good connection to all 3 wires (from the switch, to the EJ harness, to the rest of the EA harness)? I don't think I have a picture of an unwrapped, finished harness. but there aren't a whole lot of wires. probably 20 or so going up the fender to the engine harness, and 10-15 across the firewall (Crank/Cam sensor, knock, 02, ignitor, MAF).

fan speed issue is because of broken resistors in the resistor pack (bolted to the blower box under the glove box). This is very common....I found a new resistor pack on ebay a while ago for a reasonable price....but I'm sure it'll fail soon as well. Someone had a write-up years ago about soldering in some better resistors that don't heat up and fail as easily. the other is a vacuum issue. start by tracing the lines in the engine bay (as crazyman suggested). it's not uncommon for that line to slip off the intake manifold. There's a little metal guard over the lines to prevent pinching...so that probably isn't your problem. if you know you're getting vacuum to the switch, it could be the switch itself. it's a fairly simple mechanism, with little sliding plastic pieces, if these don't seal (there's some sort of grease on there that helps...but it seems that it usually dries up), you'll have problems. I tried a few different switches, with no luck.....so I did this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66673 that was 3 years ago. still running it like that. always just on Heat and Defrost. which works fine. I think I'll try the switch from my parts car in it before I sell it though.

haha, yep! That's the SlowTi . looks like you were expecting it to be faster :-\ I just realized I forgot to update this thread.....hehe....oops. well, being that we were in service all day, both days, we didn't see much action. this was about as exciting as it got: As a team though, we did pretty well. Friday was a little worrysome as Carl did get stuck for a while. just slid out of the center of the road and got hung up. sweep was able to push them out by hand.....Luckily they didn't take the time card so we didn't DNF. but, dead last of the finishers.... Saturday, however, went very very well. Carl and Dave kept bringing the car in in one pice, and it was obvious they were having a good time. the jitters from the roll in July and the little off at Ojibwe were gone, and they were back in the groove. We placed 16th of 20 finishers in the regional rally that day, but only a couple minutes behind Mason Moyle, our major Open Light rival this year. The important part, however, is they finished. Which means we now have enough coefficients that the Novice Rally America license is no longer necessary. so....the Open class build begins. shooting for 300awhp and 380-400tq for next year. we made it onto the subaru rally site! http://rally.subaru.com/event_2009_lspr_gallery.html some in-car footage: Herman [YOUTUBE]JOjLr2qqffQ[/YOUTUBE] Delaware 3 sorry about the buzz in the sound - we were getting feedback off the power inverter in the intercom system. [YOUTUBE]kwqExL3ga4g[/YOUTUBE] Jerry got a couple good shots of the car: his gallery: http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/LS09/

you say you're not getting any lights? Is everything on that should be when the key is "on" (dash, headlights, HVAC, etc.)?

anything fuel injected will be fine. I just used the stock pump in my loyale (already SPFI). in the '86 I did last summer, I found a pump for an early '90s Ford Grand Squire (crown vic wagon). it was inline, and had the same sized fittings as the subaru. I found a psi rating for them, and it was perfect, and assumed that the cfm would be enough being that it's designed for a 302 V8. anyway, I got one on ebay for like $30!

I've never done permanent damage to a master cylinder, and I almost never remember to pull the cap off the reservoir.... did you bleed all 4 calipers? did you do it in the right order (LR, RF, RR, LF)? soft pedal is usually a result of an air bubble.

yea, it can stick. a screwdriver to pry it a bit, or some taps with a hammer (don't wail on it, there are breakable things nearby.....) usually do the trick. but yea, if you've got that lower 14mm bolt out of the caliper, it should come loose. just a matter of encouraging it to do so.

bottom bolt off the caliper, then swing the caliper up and slide it off the upper pin. then 2 17mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle so you can get the rotor/hub off.

the old "measure the string" trick might not work.....I've heard that that's too short to look up on most listings..... but here's a sweet belt-lookup chart: http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.php?l=&*********imPolyCogBelts=1&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch=1&partNumber=5050650&metricPartNumber=&beltLength=&numRibs=&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.x=21&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.y=5

the part of the harness that went through the firewall on the legacy, bring that up through the hole behind the strut tower (crank/cam sensors, 02, MAF, ignitor). then they'll be plenty long enough. that's correct, that's the plugs right on the gauge cluster. Came from a Chilton's manual, but the legacy diagrams in that manual are identical to the FSM stuff....

pull your gauge cluster out. you should be able to find most of the wires you need there with this diagram: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf and get the 12v switched and starter signal right from the ignition switch. I didn't modify the lengths at all, so there should be enough to get it under the dash pretty well. easiest way is to separate it into the 2 halves (pull the SMJ apart, big square one with the bolt through it), and then re-assemble once it's all under the dash.

well, the heads/intake have to match each other, as well as the wiring/ECU. so if you sent me 2.2 wiring, it won't work with that combo. 2.2 block with 2.5 heads would drop your compression. probably to something around 8.7-9.0:1. which means a drop in power, but perfect for a turbo. now. doing the exact opposite (2.5 bottom end with 2.2 heads) bumps your compression up. means you have to run higher octane fuel to prevent DET, but the torque curve is pretty sweet.

I absolutely need a passenger side fender and headlight. but would be up for a new-style bumper, hood and other fender as well, depending on price/condition.

I think the maplight only needs the one wire (power wire, grounded through the mount). wouldn't need to get that off a specific donor car. just string a wire down there and give it some power....or go back to the dome light and grab the 12v constant there.

I have no shame. and my projects need money

that's Huck. my wagon was known as the Frankenwagon for many years. did you see how the rust was on any of the XTs? specifically either (looks like there might be 2...) of the silver ones? I really need to call that guy to see what he wants for some XT body parts. I really need to get mine up and running ASAP.

not local...but it'll get done right! http://www.numbchuxconversions.com

awesome project! what control arms and axles did you use? the RX trans will hurt it a bunch (very low 5th gear, and moving parts of FT4WD), but it should be pretty sweet.

what? I ENTIRELY disagree with this statement. The EG33 is the first option I would consider in looking for a performance motor. they use the same winning bore/stroke combination as the legendary EJ22. perfectly balancing cylinder wall strength with displacement. And the EG33 DOHC heads flow wonderfully. take a stock GC impreza, drop a stock EG33 in it. and it will hang with Stage 2 WRXs all day. turbocharge an EJ25, and you'll be outrun by stock WRXs, and drastically compromise your reliability. the weight difference is definitely there. but some stiffer springs in the front, and relocate the battery to the trunk, and the difference is very small. a slight adjustment in driving style would easily compensate. I'm working on my 3rd, full hands-on EG33 swap right now (first 2 in GC imprezas, and this into a '96 legacy brighton wagon). I've also done the wiring harnesses for 2 others. Mechanically.....the length is the only issue. transmission bolts right up. engine mounts fit perfectly. fuel lines, throttle linkage, etc. all very easy. but, something has to happen with the radiator (as you know).you can cut and modify existing mounts to move the radiator forward a few inches. you will most likely loose your hood latch. the 2 GCs I worked on both had a smaller, thicker radiator that they were able to mount further forward with minimal modification elsewhere. Dao mounted his up in the bumper like a front-mount intercooler.....leaving his core supports and hood latch in tact: more info on his car: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/daoimp.htm and Colin had one made that had brackets on it that actually replaced the upper support.

I have been involved in numerous 33 swaps. now is a not ideal time for information...will post later

Lake Superior Performance Rally starts tomorrow (today...technically....). Wish us luck!! also...I'll probably be out of touch until Sunday.

bad news.....you're going to have to take your accessories off to get the radiator in without damaging it..... otherwise, project looks awesome!

have you read the conversion manual? that should get you turned in the right direction... http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/EA2EJ.pdf using the impreza trans, you'll run into issues with the driveshaft, axles (25 spline, as discussed in the RX thread), crossmembers, linkage, etc. or, use your EA81 trans with an adapter plate. not an ideal trans for the project, but it would work, and would require less fabrication. I do the harness modifications. your first message didn't have a return email address.....but I just replied to your last one.

I haven't had any trouble with balancing. you're taking a little material off each of the holes, and it's very close to the middle. I did the flywheel in my loyale myself, and have about 40k miles on it....no problems. neither that or the '86 I did have shown any sign of vibration. the legacy vs impreza driveshaft difference is on the rear half. you might be able to grab the the shorter front half from a car with an automatic, but the EJ carrier bracket is a different design than the EA one, so it won't line up easily.

obvious airflow out of the tail pipe. so the cat isn't totally plugged. and it bogs before it really even gets any rpms. coil pack and ignitor were swapped out with other used ones. symptoms didn't change. might go over and see if they work on my car tomorrow to see if they're any good. plugs were replaced. I'll see if we can get ahold of a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge to test those ideas.