Numbchux

well, you're in for a heck of a project if you didn't mark the plugs. that was my biggest hold up on my first one.....now it isn't too much of a problem, because I recognize all the plugs. yes, the computer with the 4 black plugs is the TCU. the ECUs are the same, just a signal wire that tells it whether it's in an AT or MT car. once you cut off this wire, it'll switch over. the tach signal will work just fine. I'm not sure if it'll have a reed switch or not. I've heard that some EA81s do, but I know Phizinza had to fabricate one for his brat. I've also only ever heard of one person running an OBD I EJ22 that needed a VSS, and that was Phizinza, so that might be an oz-specific thing. the smallcar.com website specifically states that it is not needed in OBD I cars..... BUT, I'll give you a couple pointers. first off, start with plugs you know you WON'T be using. and remember, a cut wire is a cut wire, they behave the same no matter where you cut it. so, don't just grab a connector you know you won't be using and cut it off. if you know you won't be needing it, trace each wire back into the harness as far as you possibly can, and THEN cut it. if you trace it back into the harness, and it splits, cut it before the split as you might need that wire elsewhere. if you come back to it, and you've cut off all the other wires, then you can move past it. if any of them lead to a plug you know you'll be keeping (ECU, specifically), look it up before you cut it. you might not need it, but it's always good to double-check. great ECU pinout for looking up individual wires here alright, now, un-do the SMJ (huge grey plug with the bolt through it) and seperate the part of the harness that went up through the fender (has one ECU plug on it, the underhood fuse box, and headlights/rad fans/etc.) and set this part aside. now lay the rest out like it was in the car. now, start from the passenger side footwell (where the cruise box was, this is the other computer with the 2 relays on it in the lower right of your pic). follow that entire harness across until you get to where it splits off and went through the firewall (this is where the MAF, crank and cam sensors, 02, and ignitor wiring is). of that entire clump of wires between there and the cruise box, you will only need one wire, which is the large BR (black with red stripe) wire, this is for the fuse pump. so cut that wire off at the plug at the farthest end from the relay, and pull it out. now trace the rest of those wires the other way into the harness and start cutting them off. you will not need ANY of them, just remember, if you come to a split, cut it before the split. next easiest is the TCU. again, you won't need any of these, but again, be very careful to cut BEFORE any of these splits, as it does get a signal from the TPS and a few others that are crucial to engine functionality. then to the fuse box (interior one) plugs. trace them each individually. most of these will not be used either, but the relays get their power here, so watch out for those. then to the couple plugs at the gauge cluster. you'll need to save a few of these wires, but again, most of them can go. *watch out for 2 wires here, they do not go to the ECU, but straight to the engine harness. one's GW and the other WG. these are for oil light and water temp signals* that's about as much help as I can offer. hope that gets you started.

excellent. very similar to how I want to set mine up. although the front spring hanger on the 63s worries me. that's a crucial ground-clearance point on the rocks, my buddy's YJ gets hung up on the front hangers of the rear springs all the time.

nope, that's a newer thing. I attached a little diagram of the fuel pump relay. on the left is how it is stock. the yellow wires are separated for awhile, but should both be on the same circuit eventually. on the right is what you should do. tie them together (a yellow heat-shrink butt splice would be best, only costs a couple bux from wal-mart, home depot, napa, etc.) so that both ends of the smaller wire get power.

that is, extremely strange. I don't know how it could have run at all that way. well, they should be on the same circuit, so hook them both together. also, that smaller yellow wire also goes to the ECU (pin b12, FWIW), so don't just cut it off and hook up the relay side.

both yellow wires at the fuel relay should get 12v when the ign is on. green wire gets a ground from the ECU.

yea, the one ECU is bad. codes? did you look for the diagnostic connectors and be sure they're unplugged? and, for the umpteenth time....did you double/triple checked ALL air lines between the block and the MAF.

ECU plugs are entirely different. in fact, the 96 has one big one. alright, if the ECU is working. next thing to check is if there are any codes. is your CEL working?

ooooo....that's who's been sending me emails about this..... anyway, like I asked in the emails. is the ECU coming on at all? easiest way to tell this is whether the fuel pump primes or not.

yea, both pairs of diagnostic connectors are there. I do connect them (to keep track of them) while working on the harness, I don't know if I left them that way. still sounds like a vacuum leak....sounds EXACTLY like what happened with the 96 EJ22 in the 86 wagon last summer when I didn't have the IAC connected to the intake tube.

"lo-pro rally tires" you're new to the sport aren't you. I know many guys DOWNGRADING brakes so they can run 14s and 15s on their WRXs and STis for better tire selection.

yep. I know all EJ ones use ATF. and yea, I've seen a few pumps fail when using standard PS fluid. the seals fail more quickly, an air bubble gets in there, the fluid starts to cavitate, and before long, the pump is shot. slightly off-topic. but an EA82 pump and an EJ22 pump are almost identical, except the mounting bolt size, and case material (EA82s are steel, EJs are aluminum).

vacuum leak? have everything hooked up? IAC, PCV lines, etc. that's my next instinct, with it thinking that it's cranking all the time, it'll either stay in "choke" mode (extra fuel) or go into limp mode. either way, not depending on the MAF signal almost at all. I don't think you created a new problem....just took the band-aid off the old one. might even help to just clean the MAF.

hard to say, as there are a number of other summer events that are still up in the air, and it's a long drive, but I had a great time when we were down there a few years ago. I'd love to come again. But then again, I would like to get the 4runner down for Castana....so it might be one or the other. we'll see.

got your pm....I'd call but since I'm mostly nocturnal.....yea, I'll call tomorrow though. in the mean time. have you checked to see if the rest of the harness is staying on while cranking? the "switched 12v" wire needs to be to a source that stays on while cranking. although it probably wouldn't fire at all if that were the case.....but hard to diagnose over the internet. also, what's the history on the engine? was it known to be running? because this also sounds a bit like a failed/failing Crank Angle Sensor.

CEL codes? if you've gotten that far, it'll probably tell you what's up from there.

that skid plate is DEFINITELY not attached to the engine crossmember. which makes sense since he's working on the exhaust.

there's an oil light on the EA82 dash on the left side right under the gauge cluster (the little bar where the check engine light and whatnot are). as the DLs didn't have a gauge. I used this on the '86 I did last summer.

'00+ legacies use a multilink rear suspension, instead of the modified macpherson. '97 legacy springs are about 5.25" in diameter, '00+ are about 3" you might be able to use them anyway, but they won't sit in the spring perches correctly.

Phizinza....I'm LOVING the rock light setup. never seen 'em on a subie. MysteriousXTC....awesome bumper. seriously impressive fab work there! FYI, the corner lights on the blue wagon were re-wired. the orange, side-facing ones as parking lights, and the white, front-facing ones as turn signals. which is why they're off.

I've been running a Beck/Arnley (brand, not remanufactured, good stuff!) kit for an XT6 that I got from RockAuto.com. I've put about 25k on it (with an EJ22 swap), I just had to loosen the cable a bit, as it has worn, but it's still got lots of life left in it. holds up great to stock EJ22 power, but the pressure plate is not overkill, so the clutch pedal is still very comfortable. I'm building up an EJ22 this winter for more power. shooting for ~150awhp, maybe a bit more. I don't think this clutch will hold up to that, so it'll be coming out.

yea, I don't know the physics behind why it works. but it does. the guys that work at frozen rotors (here in MN....active in the MNSubaru club) go as far as treating they're razor blades, which then last a ridiculously long time.

if you're using a trans with 23 splines....no hybrid necessary. just use the EA81 axles as-is.

wow, this thread has wondered. in theory, a drum setup SHOULD have as much power as discs. but do the swap, and you'll change your tune. also, a rear disc swap would help prevent the fronts from warping because they're not working as hard, and therefore won't build up as much heat. drilled rotors = cracked rotors slotted doesn't help much with heat...helps clean the pads, give more "bit" etc. only thing that you can do to a rotor to prevent warping is cryo treat it. frozenrotors.com offers cryo'd rotors for an EA82 (only listed for an XT, but they're the same). standard for about $90 each, and slotted for 140. I just ordered a full set of frozen rotors for my wagon. IMHO, these are the best rotors money can buy without changing size or material.

rear seat and y-pipe definitely. the pipe before the muffler might be routed differently though, as the rear suspension is quite a bit simpler.