Numbchux

That was just a gutter-mount Yakima. Worked best after removing the trim.

Daylight picture of the "new" seat:

It might be worth a try. But that seems really far forward to me. Most of my chevy 4.3 is behind the front of the control arms on my 4Runner. Here's the only picture I could find that gives any sense of perspective there..... You can see the front of the timing cover in the upper right, and front of the control arm on the left side. You can also get an idea of height. There are 2" drivetrain lift motor mount spacers there, and incorrect motor mounts (the reason I took the picture) pushing the engine up another couple inches. With the correct mounts, my oil pan sits down behind the diff a bit, instead of completely above it. Even about 4" higher than stock height, I'm not sure subaru heads would clear the frame. AND, AFAIK the RWD truck frames arch up higher near the control arms than the IFS 4WD ones (the hardcore offroad guys prefer them for this, as it leaves more room for a solid front axle).

Well...I guess I should make a thread here in the Member's rides section for it... I bought this 1989 XT6 from a fellow USMB/SubaruXT member something like 7 years ago. It was basically bone stock, AWD, 4EAT, Air suspension, etc. It wasn't perfect, been crashed at least once, both rear quarters have had damage repair (inside of the RH one is red, and the line where it was welded on right over the wheel well is rusting through. LH side has quite a bit of bondo, which is cracking and falling off in big chunks). It's been painted, none of the original decals remained. It had been broken into (apparently, in the process, the thief broke both door handles, and busted up the dash, all to steal the stock radio). I immediately swapped on some mediocre snow tires on WRX wheels: I also swapped the Blizzaks on steelies from my FrankenWagon for a weekend of Ice Racing: Which killed the air suspension: Swapped to coils, and took it ice racing again (actually brought the FrankenWagon as well for this weekend, so the UltraGrips were back on the XT6) Not much else to say about the next 6 months. I drove it every day, delivered pizzas in it, and enjoyed the heck out of it. Then..... Someone turned in front of me, and I hit them. A few months later, I got my hands on an extremely rusty '88 5MT XT6: I drove it for about a year, but it had overheating issues, and the aforementioned rust (Structurally, so bad that the windshield was de-laminating at a crack). Finally transmission failure put another nail in it's coffin, and I parted it out. But I saved the front clip. Several years later, I had some free time from work, and spent a good week on the '89. I knew it probably wasn't worth fixing "correctly". But I wanted to make it driveable again. High lift jack, comealong, portapower, hammer, and a grinder and I got everything to mostly line up....enough that the hood opens and closes, and so do the lights, anyway. But it still sat for a couple more years. I had a reliable, and fun, little '92 Celica ST coupe. About a year and a half ago, I spun a rod bearing in it due to oil starvation due to a rusted-through oil pan and failed oil pressure switch wire....and as luck would have it, there was a '91 Celica GT Convertible on craigslist that needed a heap of suspension parts. So I picked it up, and started driving it. But it's actually in really good shape, it was kind of a shame to drive it in the harsh MN winter last year, so I decided to get my butt in gear, and get the XT6 back on the road. It really didn't need much. Over the years, I swapped most of the upgraded suspension and brake parts that were in my FrankenWagon into this, but never really finished the install. So there were a few things that needed buttoning up (bolts tightened, brake lines rerouted, etc.). I had robbed the power steering brushes for my other XT6, so those had to be swapped back. It needed an upper radiator hose. Somehow I seem to have lost the lower air box. Original plan was just a MAF adapter and cone air filter, but in fanagling that in, I managed to ruin the stock intake hose.....so before long I was on ebay getting some super cheap silicone elbows and stainless tube, and I ended up with this: Despite the fact that it only had a couple gallons of gas in it for 6 years, it always started right up. I've been driving it every day this winter. I was blasting some of the grime off the engine at the coin-op car wash, and a little moisture found it's way into the distributor cap, so I had to have it towed home, I found some terrifyingly rusted contacts in the cap, so I put a new cap and rotor in it. Due to the brake swapping, I think at some point the master cylinder ran dry, and needed to be bench bled. Well, since the labor was the same, I put an SVX 17/16 master in it. I had to replace a chunk of steel brake line where it goes through the body under the rear seat to the prop valve. One of the front hoses rubbed on the wheel, so I put some StopTech braided stainless ones for a WRX in last weekend. Unfortunately, due to the painfully mild winter, there haven't been any ice races up here. But a friend has agreed that we can use his truck and trailer, and my car, and haul it down to some RallyXs next summer. I got my hands on this sweet sport seat and 4-point harness from a local car guy last weekend, and threw it in tonight: Sort of racing seat thing, but still reclines. The mounting pattern was smaller in both directions, length and width. So I mounted some 2x2x1/8" steel angle to the stock rails, and then I could bolt the seat to that, and maintain a lot of strength. I'll take a picture of it in the car in the morning. It sits taller than I'd like, unfortunately the mechanism that locks the slides barely clears the seat frame as it sits. So it will require a rethink to get it much lower... Current mod list: Sweet warm-air intake '92 FWD Legacy front knuckles/cv axles/strut mounts '93 JDM WRX front brakes (same as USDM turbo-legacy) Front KYB GR2s from a '94 Turbo Legacy Stock Front springs/perches from a GD WRX EA81 tie rod ends Rear KYB GR2s for an EA82 4WD Wagon 250 lb/in, 10 in Eibach rear springs from Ground-Control '87 Nissan 200SX rear calipers SVX Master Cylinder GD WRX Braided Stainless front brake hoses Planned mods: Braided rear brake hoses Finish rear ebrake conversion with the Legacy handle/cables that were in my Loyale Finish mounting 4-point harness (Note: this will ONLY be used for rallycross. These do not provide enough/correct support for actual crash protection) Re-install rear sway bar with poly bushings Dmack Gravel tires on T-leg alloys Relocate battery to the trunk Hopefully cut some weight out of the front bumper beam A/C compressor delete DutyC/4WD switch mod (I also want to see if the XT6 4EAT TCU has the capability for manual "power" mode operation like the early EJs)

As far as I know....this is the only time it's been "done" (I say that, as the project is not yet finished, but the engine/transmission have been mocked up several times. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/ In there, you'll see this picture. I believe this was already with some drivetrain lift: And, he ended up cutting off the whole front of the frame and replacing it with tube. I believe you have control arm bracketry and stuff on top of the frame in that exact spot. So yours would probably have to be ~6" higher than his. As much as I love the idea of a Subaru engine in a Toyota, I don't think it's feasible without a solid front axle, and a lot of fab work.

AFAIK, that was only a 5x100 kit that crossbred made. You could easily redrill the 2-pot rotors....

Oh yea, torque converter bolts are accessible through an inspection hole in the engine side of the bellhousing. On the top, and passenger side. Should be a little rubber cap over it (although that frequently disappears over the years).

I agree you probably have mis-matched front and rear axle ratios. On top of the transmission bellhousing, near the starter, should be a transmission number (AFAIK, always starting with a "T"). Which should match the number on the build plate on the strut tower: Either way, you can usually google the number, and find exactly what it's for, and what the gear ratios are. I don't remember if your car should have a tag on the rear diff saying the ratio on it. There might not be a good way to tell for sure without pulling the rear cover (and, since it's mounted by the rear cover, means you basically have to remove it from the car). '90-'94 Legacies came with 3.90 and 4.111 (IIRC, one is for Manual transmission, and the other for Auto, but I'm not sure off the top of my head). But rear diffs are pretty much cross-compatible as long as they've been making AWD/4WD cars, in 3.545, 3.70, 3.90, 4.111, and 4.444. Most of those in cars which could have been a donor car for your trans.

Yes. I spent quite some time last night considering and typing up a thorough response, despite having very little information to go from.

Rod bearing spun and seized. Rod broke in half, and the half still attached to the crank punched through the block. Also called "Throwing a Rod" Typically it's caused by a lack of oil to that bearing, this can be caused by several things, be it a clog somewhere limiting flow to only that bearing, or that part of the engine. Or something causing low oil pressure to the whole engine (cracked pick-up tube, oil pump problem, etc.). It can also be caused by high rpm use, or turbo cars that have had the boost turned up (I assume neither of these apply to you....). It can also be caused by detonation/misfires (causing contact between the bearing and crank), which can be caused by either fueling or ignition. IMO, none of these things are any more likely on your car than most others (Subaru and others). Long story short, it'll be very difficult to tell. It might be due to some neglect or abuse, but it might just be a fluke.

Debatable. And even still, 7psi with 3L of displacement, high compression, and a good tune, is a heap of power!

There's also options for turbo mounting like this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46782&d=1309281462 (apparently I can't embed that...) There's a guy here in MN that's fabbed up several cars like this. It gets some of the heat out of the engine bay, frees up space to stuff a much larger turbo than what fits in stock location, and allows for much shorter piping, both on the exhaust and intercooler side. Pretty cool stuff. Those were all on EJ cars, but obviously wouldn't be any different for an EZ, just need a different exhaust flange, and 2 more primary pipes.

Geez, there's a lot of negativity in here!! Let me try to bridge the gap a little. First off, "Sir Junk". You are clearly very new to this, with a ton of research ahead of you, and no indication of even enough background knowledge to justify choosing that engine. Most of us have seen dozens of people on here, and elsewhere, over the years come on here and start posts like this. Most of them never get started, a few started, and never finished. I'm not a betting person, but I would bet cash that this car never happens. With that said, I think some of the people here are overstating the difficulty. The back of an EZ engine is in the exact same place as an EJ. The turbo fits perfectly behind the RH head. Yes, you have to build custom headers, up-pipe, down-pipe, etc. But not really anything you wouldn't be doing with any other big-turbo (rotated) build. I worked on an EG33 swap car that the owner had high hopes for (then he had 5 kids.....and sold the car un-finished....and I helped get it going later with the stock engine). He actually mocked up putting a TD04 behind each headlight, using "morette" style projector headlight housings, and using one of the headlight openings as an intake for each turbo. Would have had to cut up the inner fender, and move the battery to the trunk and some clever intercooler plumbing (probably AWICs), but really not too difficult. The '05+ EZ30s (commonly, and incorrectly, called EZ30R) were all immobilizer cars. This is probably the biggest enemy to swappers. It makes it virtually impossible (I only say virtually to give the benefit of the doubt. I've never seen it done) to run that ECU in any other chassis. There's an old thread on NASIOC where someone tried, and tried, and tried to get one of those EZ30s to run in an older impreza.....never happened. So you're definitely stuck with standalone (which you already are, if you're thinking about boost). As Bushwick said, Mighty Car Mods did one with a turbo EZ36. They detailed it over about 20 30-min videos. It almost makes it look easy, but watch closely at the amount of specialists that get involved. Taking over AMAuto (who is clearly prepared for this kind of project) for quite some time to fabricate everything. Then having the guys from Haltech come in and do all the wiring, and do road and dyno tunes. All EJ, EZ, EG, FA, and FB engines use essentially the same bellhousing. In about 1999, they added 4 more bolts to the connection, but the 4 bolts on the older style line up to the newer style, they are interchangeable (with the one challenge of adding a starter bolt when putting an 8-bolt transmission on a 4-bolt engine). Although a turbo 6-cyl will munch any stock 5-speed. Get a 6-speed, and matching r180.

Experience varies dealer-to-dealer. But Subaru is replacing short blocks on cars effected with the oil consumption problem. We just did one that had 90k miles on it. Zero cost to the customer (extreme case...but still a good example). And those were due to a bad batch of piston rings. The effected cars had oil consumption issues before the first oil change, it's not something that pops up later. And all but the 2012 Impreza have low oil sensors, so a warning light will come on, which greatly reduces the chances that the cars were driven with dangerously low oil. It is an issue, and we're probably fixing one car a week here That said, I'd definitely get a second opinion on your 05. I'm assuming they're talking about Control Arms. That seems really strange to me, I would assume that it's because of failing bushings, but the bushings can be replaced individually, it's more labor, but considerably less parts cost. IMO, the only reason to replace an entire control arm, is structural failure (rust or impact). If the steering rack is leaking (not unheard-of, or even unlikely, especially with that many miles). There really isn't a good option other than replacing it. Some money can be saved on parts (although, for $1200 installed, I'm assuming that's with a remanufactured rack), but it's a fairly big job to replace it. And, it will require an alignment afterward.... There are definitely dozens, if not hundreds, of aftermarket options for backup camera and bluetooth integration. Some would require a new radio, some integrate into the original one.

They don't show up for me either....

I have ordered several times from 1stsubaruparts.com, but not in quite awhile. I got this email from them in October of 2012 "Dear customer, Starting October 1st, we will no longer accept new orders at our website1stsubaruparts.com. Instead, you can order Subaru parts and accessories at our new and improved site discountedsubaruparts.com We are confident that you will find our new site, Discounted Subaru Parts even better. We still have the same great staff and provide the same great customer service but we have improved the functionality of the site and now include access to Subaru Performance Tuning Parts and Subaru Gear official clothing, apparel and more! -Walker Subaru" It was weird, because the 1st website never went down that I saw....unless someone else snatched it up quick. I'm not exactly sure what's going on there, but the dealership that we've had good luck with is www.discountedsubaruparts.com

I disagree. H6 swap cars are a blast. Peak power isn't as much as many turbo setups, but the torque curve is addictive. Turbos add a definite level of complexity to a car, and typically that reduces the reliability. "There's no replacement for displacement" is definitely true, and while I think that 7 or 8 litres is certainly overkill, but ~3 is perfect. The ER27 is probably more work than it's worth. It's almost as long as an EG33, has a 3rd motor mount to the lower radiator support, and doesn't have much more power than a decent EJ. I've seen a couple ER27 into EA81 swaps. ER27 ECUs are mounted in the trunk, so while the electrical functionality isn't actually more complicated, having several feet more wire to deal with can add it's own challenges. An EG33 is a fantastic engine. An EG-swapped GC impreza will out run a GD STi in a straight line, and an EA82 chassis is even lighter. No, it's not an easy swap, but it's doable. As with any swap that increases the power by 2-2.5 times, you will probably want to do some suspension and brake upgrades, but those aren't terribly difficult. You'll probably want an EJ AWD transmission, which requires a little work, but also completely doable. The EG33 is more than a little bit bigger than an EA82, so you'll have to move the radiator forward. That's easier on an EJ car, as you have a fairly large, plastic bumper that you can hide stuff behind, but again, doable. Probably would require a shorter and thicker radiator. An EZ30/36 would be the easiest swap, mechanically, but the most expensive. As it's not much bigger than an EJ. I bet it could be done with the stock EA82 radiator, in it's stock mounts, and pusher fans. '01-'04 EZ30s are extremely reliable (comparable to an EJ22e), and IIRC the wiring is simpler than almost any EJ turbo setup.... '05+ EZs have an immobilizer system. So in order to use one of those engines, you'll have to go standalone management, which will add significant cost.

It's just a bolt. I almost guarantee your local dealership stocks it, I know we sell a couple a month, and it's the same bolt for all non-multilink Subaru rear. 20540aa001, list price is $22.93. It can be a huge pain. Sometimes it can be seized into the bushings in the lateral links (probably about 50% of the time someone buys that bolt, they get the bushings as well). You can sort of access the center of the bolt in the knuckle, but it's difficult to cut it in half without damaging the knuckle.

I feel the need to say, at this point. Subaru puts the LF and RR on one circuit, and RF and LR on another so that if you have a hydraulic failure on one circuit, you still have balanced braking force on the other. With that said, I have replumbed several cars the way you describe (it's the only way to do a hydraulic handbrake), and it works just fine. Just know that if you have a failure, you will only have front or rear brakes.

I was mostly joking. I've never had an EA82 that could get to 7500, and tried on a regular basis. My EA82s would float somewhere between 6800-7200. Seems strange to me that they would print a 6250 or 6500 red line on the gauge, but program something at 7500.

Each to their own, and I certainly encourage you to do it. But, I disagree. Those questions are at least as relevant with an EA82t: -EJs cool much better than an EA82, I've run several EJ22s on EA82 radiators (my Loyale spent more time without a working cooling fan than with, and I put more than 60k miles on it swapped), I wouldn't with an EA82t. -While an EA82t exhaust system will fit on an EA82, if you've got it off, do something that flows better. -Transmission options are virtually identical between them. EJ to EA transmission requires an adapter plate, EJ transmission requires modified driveshaft and crossmember (definitely the hard way). EA82t swap requires a turbo engine crossmember, or fabrication. Both options require significant wiring work to install a stock fuel injection system in a car it didn't come in. Depending on your specific skills and/or parts availability, one option might be significantly better than the other. But generally speaking, they're pretty similar as far as amount of work to install. But, the EJ22e offers significant advantages: Good '96-'99 EJ22 engine donors are much more common than '85-'89 EA82t donors, pretty much everywhere. Making the cost of the bulk of the parts generally cheaper. We could debate the reliability of an EA82t until we all die of exhaustion, but I think even some of the largest EA82t lovers would agree than the EJ22e is more reliable. EJ22e is 130hp, EA82t is 115 (both in stock form). Even the slowest EJ18 is 108hp.... IMO, the '96-'99 wiring is easier to adapt than the '90-'94. AND you get better OBD!

That's valve float AFAIK, EA82 SPFI don't have rev limiters either. Either way, the valvetrain is the weak link, and while valve float isn't exactly good for anything, it's not terrible either. Let 'er buck. If you really do think you need something, there are aftermarket ignition systems that are designed primarily for carbed V8s that could probably be adapted to an EA81 and programmed to cut the ignition at a certain rpm.

YES. The Pug wheels use a 45* conical seat on the lug nuts, whereas almost all others are a 60* conical, which gives you virtually zero contact patch. Pug nuts are getting very hard to find, I think someone made some awhile back, otherwise ball seat lug nuts can be used.

Or just drive it. Lifter tick won't hurt anything. A true EA82t swap would be as much work as an EJ swap, for similar power and less reliability. A DIY Turbo'd EA82 will be even more work, for less power, and even less reliability.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157224-i-just-upgraded-my-master-cylinderheres-what-i-found/