Numbchux

That exact style wheel was available in a 390mm, and 15" diameter. Which are close, but not the same.

Or, go to your local auto parts store, and get 2 of these. M10x1.0 inverted flare tee fittings, you'll also need a couple short lengths of brake line with the same fittings to go between the master and the tee. The 2-port masters are for ABS. And the ABS pump splits the pressure from 2 lines to 4. Just make sure to keep the front and rear connections oriented the same as they were. The primary and secondary pistons (front and rear) within the master are what allow you to have some braking force, should you have catastrophic hydraulic failure somewhere.

Do you know that the TPS is calibrated correctly? Step one is definitely to check that, both at the sensor and at the ECU. Also, +1 to is your VSS connected correctly?

I just looked at several of the ones here (being 390cca, in northern MN, we swap them out for new 550cca ones on any car with a remote start), and it looks like it's day, month, year. Although, that's the kind of battery they put in Subarus from the factory (Just Impreza/foresters, though, I think). So it should be fairly close to the manufacture date of the car it's in.

Oh yea, I see that now. 13047019. Only says '94-'95. Looks like it's a brand-new unit, with reservoir, but is $100 more than the cardone reman one without the res.

SVX master bolted right up to my XT6 booster. 4-cyl XT and EA82 share a part number for Masters, so I doubt EA82s are different. Maybe EA81s or earlier, though.

Credit where credit is due. Caboobaroo found some of this years ago. I took it a step further, Looks like the pattern for all XTs, EA82s, and EJs (certainly into the early 2000s) is this: Without hillholder cars had 4-ports on the master, the hillholder also functions as a splitter, so cars equipped with one only have 3 ports on the master. Similarly the ABS pump also functions as a splitter for both channels, as such, those masters have 2 ports. Looks like XT6s had 15/16" bore masters, EA82s had 7/8" (I didn't look into this too closely, as it doesn't apply to me at all, there may be more to it), non-ABS EJs had 1", ABS EJ cars and all SVXs had 1 1/16" You may notice in my list above, there's a crossover. Non-ABS (AFAIK, FWD only) SVXs had a 1 1/16" bore master with 4 ports. FYI, the official Subaru electronic catalog doesn't show FWD SVXs as being an option for '92-'93, but it does for a '94-'97, and many aftermarket catalogs followed suit. Having an auto trans, my '89 XT6 does not have a hill holder, and therefore has a 4-port 15/16" master. I suspect over the 5ish years of basically serving as nothing more than a parts car, I got air in the master, and it needed bench bleeding. I decided if I was going to the trouble, it was going to get an upgrade while I was at it. As far as I can find, only Cardone makes a remanufactured masters for a FWD SVX. Part # 11-3849. It's either that or used (OE rebuild kits are discontinued...). Luckily those Cardone units are not terribly expensive. As I mentioned, my old system was not working as intended, but still, after the swap, this is the most positive feeling EA82/XT brake pedal I've ever owned....despite the fact that this car has significantly more caliper volume than a stock EA82 (T-leg front 2-pot calipers, 200SX rears which have larger pistons than stock Subaru). I used the XT6 reservoir in the SVX master, the tab for the lock down screw didn't line up quite right, but it's still a tight fit in the grommets, so I'm not worried. It would also be super easy to use a T fitting or 2 to adapt a 2 port EJ master to a 3- or 4-port EA82/XT chassis.

Yep

Anything that new will have an immobilizer, which means it will be virtually impossible to get running on the stock ECU. Mechanically, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to get a new CVT into an '87.5 or newer EA82 (if yours is an early model '87, you'll have the smaller transmission tunnel, which will make anything but a 5MT difficult, of course, looks like you've got a lift, which will help). But the CVT is very much computer controlled, and the whole system is very integrated.....you'll have an electrical nightmare trying to get it to run in a different car. You'll probably want to stick to ~2005 or older for engine donors unless you plan to go full standalone engine management.

If you do try the ECU, FYI, it's unique to '95. Might even be more specific, as every '95 I've worked on had a MAP....

I see a few interesting things. I'm not sure any of them definitively point to anything, but I'll post them.... Narrow band O2 signals can be difficult to read, but the fact that they both agree means it is probably not the sensors. The only thing those 2 have in common (other than the ECU itself, which I'm not ready to assume is the issue), is the main power wire. The O2 sensors, and the purge solenoid are the only things that get power from that side of the main relay. So a main relay issue (not unheard-of) could easily cause a drop in supply voltage to those 3 things, and nothing else. Easy enough to check.... More likely, though is that they are just reading the lean condition that is causing your hesitation. I think this is supported by the condition at 142 seconds, falling rpm and closed throttle means no fuel (I assume either between gears, or just coasting). I also see the fuel trims bumping into the positive. Which would lead me to believe that the computer is trying to enrich the mixtures to compensate for the lean condition. This completely contradicts what you're seeing with the injector pulses.... Assuming the TPS actually reflects movement of the pedal at the time, that looks normal. MAF looks unaffected.

'04-'08 FXT, '04-'05 Legacy GT, '04-'08 Outback XT, and 2013+ Crosstreks (That's just the application for the ring/pinion set, newest supersession is 38100AB681, MSRP is about $400, but you can find it for a lot less online, this will fit in any Subaru EJ 5MT, that's what I did)

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It's really not, to do it the way the OP is talking about. Doing a "body" lift, and just connecting the lift blocks. It's almost perfectly a straight shot. And it certainly will do more than nothing. Probably won't bring it back to original strength, but will help a lot.

Well....considering it's had an engine swap, the probably a rear diff swap.....who knows. There should be a transmission code on the bellhousing near the starter, google that and you'll have a good idea.

I just swapped the radio on my XT6, and at least one of the plugs for the trip display plugs right into a silver module that's mounted to the tunnel under the radio. I assume that's it....

Yep, all the bodywork is the same. Windows in the rear doors are different between a sedan and wagon. But swap the glass, and everything else will line right up.

It would certainly help, whether it's as strong or not is completely debatable, but in my experience when these cars rust out, those suspension pickups fail first...so you're beefing those up considerably... I think it would be fairly crucial to extend not just from the strut/radius rod mounts, but up to the engine crossmember blocks, too.

I think AANCO makes one that fits the XTs (FYI, The XTs use a very unique spacing for those 2 screws). I made a neat Aluminum adapter once to use a RainX Latitude blade. But when I did, it never occurred to me to look into getting an OE blade. Now I know you can get the whole blade, with that bracket from Subaru (86542GA562), MSRP is $24.95, and you can order it online for less. I think I still have that adapter somewhere....I never even tried to look for it, I just put a new OE one on my '6 when I put it back in service this fall. And those screws are less than $2 ea. 86564GA050. That was nice not to have to deal with the old ones that had been in and out many times.

I assume FWD Impreza would likely have the shortest stock EJ strut, if it's any shorter than your average '90s non-Outback/forester one I did not notice a difference in ride height going from stock FWD '92 Legacy front struts in my XT6 going to '94 Turbo Legacy AWD GR2s. Slow day at work...so I did some digging. Rear hub/bearing assembly for a FWD EJ: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219212&cc=1269806&jnid=665&jpid=7 Says bearing bore diameter of 1.1811" Rear bearings for a FWD XT6/EA82 are 30204 for the outer and 30206 for the inner National lists dimensions for those bearings, showing 0.7874" and 1.1811" respectively. (that's 20mm and 30mm) Now, since the EA bearings are 2 separate units, you'd have to have at least a measurement of the hub to get an idea of how the spindle length compares. But it might be possible to replace one of the inner races of a FWD EJ hub to match the smaller bore, or maybe even turn up a spacer... FWIW, EJ drums are all bigger than any EA one....so you'll still need to swap backing plates and such. Might as well go discs

I think it's possible. You don't have splines to deal with, and it's at least the same design (bearing pressed into the hub riding on a spindle, whereas the 4WD EJ/EA stuff is very different). The offset is probably pretty close, at least close enough to make up with a small spacer. Then the question really is just bearing diameter and spindle length. Both of which could be dealt with.... Also good news. FWD EJs use a hub separate from the brake drum, so it would be easy to put discs on it. If I had a FWD EA chassis, I'd try to get my hands on a used EJ FWD rear hub and give it a test-fit....

Don't worry about it. It changed hands twice since I sold it, and the kid who did own/crash it was drunk driving at the time, so I don't feel bad for him. And the car was pretty well completely rotted out, so I don't really feel bad for it either. Wish I'd gotten some parts off it, but oh well.

IIRC, an EA82 shaft will fit, just have to make a mount for the carrier bearing. And, about 8 years ago, I had an EA81 wagon one-piece shaft lengthened for use in an EA82. 6" sounds right. Local driveshaft shop did it, but there was no warranty (they had to machine the flanges down a bit from metric to a standard tube size), Still no problems when the car was wrecked this last summer.

I haven't found anywhere online that is as good when it comes time to warranty parts as any local place (not that NAPA is that great, I think AutoZone beats the pants off the rest for warranty). The fact of life with aftermarket parts, is a higher failure rate than OE, so you will be replacing them under warranty. You can buy the same part online for a lot less, but there's no, or very little, warranty support (you can probably get refunded for the part, but you have to pay up front for the replacement, and you'll probably be out shipping...). Look into US Auto Force. I don't know how nationwide they are, but we deal with them all the time for tires (we have almost the full gambit of local parts stores), and occasionally more, and they've been pretty good. I've looked a little at some of their parts availability, too, and it's pretty good, competitive prices, and good warranty coverage (again, we mostly deal with them for tires...). I've never called to order a part, but they have a good website using Nexpart for lookup (which is as reliable as anything...like RockAuto, sometimes entering year, make, model, engine gives you options that aren't available with that combination, but they do list dimensions and such so you can narrow it down yourself). With that said, we have an Amazon Prime account for the shop, and frequently order parts and supplies through them. The database is definitely not designed for auto parts, but you can look stuff up elsewhere, and then search for a part number.

Forester stuff won't get you much, if any. I believe the accepted combination is 6-cyl front springs (assuming yours is a 4-cyl), and Baja rear for something like an inch and a half. SJR makes a block lift kit for them, too.