Numbchux

I've seen a few Porsche 914s with ER27s (mid engine, radiator in the front....) with just the stock water pump....

I've been curious about those ever since I started at AutoZone about 8 months ago. They look really well made. But only time will tell. Most of the cardone reman ones that I've bought lasted at least a few months before showing signs of failure. But most failed within a year or so.....

I pity the axles that will end up in there. Amazing work man. I love it!

Holy chit. Adapters for EJ struts on EA knuckles? That's awesome!!

No, the computer will know that the sensor reading is too low, and still throw a code. It's intentionally very hard to trick.

The story is told pretty well in the video....but for a little more information, almost 2 years ago our rally car (2004 Subaru WRX STi) was wrecked. We pulled it into the garage, and ripped off all the parts. Then we bought a $1500 '96 impreza, drove it into the garage (under it's own power), stripped it down to a bare chassis, built a roll cage, and installed most of the parts from the old car (and some new ones). The whole time, we had a camera up on the shelf in the garage taking a picture every minute or so. Well, it was finally compiled into a time lapse video. Unfortunately, once the roll cage was built and the chassis went off for powdercoat, we didn't keep up with the time lapse, so it turns into a slideshow of assembly photos, but still pretty sweet. (Be sure to click through to Youtube, this video is available in full 1080 HD) If you're looking for more, photo gallery of the whole build: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Cars/171-V20-build/17244598_5RjBZH#!i=1308953210&k=mMCq3Lp

Yep, pretty common. Rat rods, rock crawlers (great for rear steering), etc.

USDM as well, actually. Also OBXT and Baja XT. Quite sure I posted it in my build thread for my Brat

Not all 2.2/4EAT combos had an EGR.....so make extra sure you get one with.

Those will swap just fine. Only different EJ axles were 93-94 Impreza FWD 5MTs, they had a different spline count on the inner joint, and 02+ impreza sedans have a wider track, so longer shafts. And sometime around 2005 they went to male splines on the axles instead of female. But anything else should work.

Yep, crazy powerful tool. I have a few. Beats the hell out of a test light!

internal regulator can drain the battery, but it usually charges at like 18v too. This is the right idea, but the correct way to do it is get a multimeter, and connect it between the negative battery post and disconnected terminal to actually get an amperage number on the draw, and not just eyeballing a spark.

It can be done without pulling the hub. I've done stock length studs many times, I bet longer ones would work. Maybe not the crazy long ARP studs... Look into the H&R spacers, I'm running a pair of 15mm ones on the back of my Celica. They came with studs that are the perfect size, and they're very nice hub-centric spacers.

Not going to find much. Most vehicles that run 5x100 run higher than that. But, some 10-15mm spacers should get you right in the ballpark.

No. MTs and ATs use very different internals. Not (easily) swappable. I think it's been done, but for that combo, it's much cheaper just to buy a new gearset (Mine was only a couple hundred dollars right from a Subaru dealership)

external trans filter is a spin-on just like an oil filter, on the driver's side. I don't think the electronics changed. But, most importantly: The only things I can think of that are different between a phase I and II are the 8 bolt bellhousing, #5 thrust bearing, and timing belt tensioner. If you put a phase 1 motor in there, the tensioner and thrust bearing don't matter at all. The bellhousing just means you won't use some of the holes in the transmission bellhousing (a bit of an issue with a manual, as one of those bolts holds the starter on, but as I mentioned, not so with an auto).

Alright, fair enough. With those symptoms, I would say it's probably got blown gaskets. It might be repairable, but for personal use, it's probably a prime candidate for a 2.2 swap. I'd still say a little time into further diagnosing the 2.5 is probably not wasted, though. If you don't feel like buying one, you can rent OBD readers, most places don't want it leaving the premises, so you may want to wait until the motor is fixed. The cruise control is another system that uses the VSS. So if that works, the sensor works....

I can offer a little insight. First off, '99 was a mid-year change for Phase II. I have a '99 SUS that's Phase II engine and transmission. That doesn't really change almost anything as far as swapping in a 2.2 is concerned. Especially if it's an automatic (as the Phase II 8-bolt 4EAT bellhousing still has a stud for the lower starter bolt). I believe the change was at the same time, which would mean that a quick glance at the transmission would answer that question. External filter = phase II. Get a code reader on that. If the VSS isn't working, it should be throwing a CEL (and probably an AT, if applicable) code. These systems all use the same sensor. So if the ECU knows that the vehicle is moving, and the gauge doesn't, than it's the gauge or wiring. Oil contamination can happen from a few things. I wouldn't look into replacing the engine unless you know this ones bad. The car will have more value (to most people) without an engine swap done to it, and it may be a cheap fix. Do a compression and leakdown test

Just a clarification. '95 2.2 Imprezas were OBD II.

Am I missing something?

They have their ups and downs. Just speaking mechanically (they would come with different electronics, which could be interchanged), the dual-port ones have hydraulic lash adjuster, where the single port ones are solid. Most single port engines are an interference engine, but that also comes with a slight (.2, IIRC) bump in compression and power. Borla (and knockoff) headers are readily available for dual port, not almost at all for single port.

Yea, it really is pretty simple with EA82s, especially with manual transmissions. Turbo = 25 spline, non = 23. I think there is some combination of the older 3-speed auto and turbo that is an exception to that (23 spline), but for probably 99% of the EA82s out there, that's true.

No. Use the flexplate that is bolted to your 2.5 If you're concerned about having a functional Check Engine Light (I suspect you are since it says you are in CA), you'll have to find a 2.2 (or at least 2.2 intake manifold) with an EGR. These are not terribly common. The one I did doesn't have one, and throws a code for it. Runs beautifully, but would not pass any sort of inspection, I'm sure.

No. It's a FWD (FRONT Wheel Drive) "fuse" (it's not actually a fuse, in that it protects a circuit, just an easy way to disable the center "diff" in case of a flat tire). I don't know anything about A/C. My A/C diagnostic procedure is: Does it work? -> No -> Rip as much out as possible

Yes Maybe, depends on the 2.2. I used a '94, and had to swap the engine harness and throttle body across. Manifold will not work on any 2.2. Maybe. '96+ 2.2s had single port exhaust. So if you use one of those engines, you'll need the exhaust manifold to match