Crazyeights

@grossgary I seem to learn something new and helpful just about every time I read your replies. Thank you

Good work! I think that was a wise choice.

Great info JesZeK as always

[EDIT] info corrected below by JesZeK

I read about a similar problem here on USMB in another persons thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/ I hope this helps.

I use Loctite 518 flange sealant on mine and none have leaked yet. If you do choose Ultra Grey/Fuji/Toyota/Nissan Bond then I would apply it sparingly. You don't want any inside the pump where the rotor is.

@silverhelme I see your point. After working on cars full time for many years myself, an auto trans sounds really good sometimes.

@ JesZeK Nice complete write up as always! Thank you again

Agreed there are lots of details involved with doing a proper lift that may not be obvious at first look. Things like the steering shaft, brake lines, shift linkage, driveline and cv axle shaft angles, alignment issues, what tire and wheel combination to use, which shocks and struts to use, proper fasteners, it goes on and on... It's all been done many times and there is lots of information to be found on here. An improperly lifted rig can be quite dangerous The use of common sense and safe procedures are strongly recommended

Sorry to hear about this! Count your blessings that you weren't badly hurt The Brat always can be replaced - you can't

I would say that the melted timing cover is your best clue. The heat was probably a factor.

Unfortunately it's trial and error. I ended up making a second one before I could get the timing to adjust properly within the limit of the slot on the distributor.

Try http://www.car-part.com There are a few of those transmissions listed there.

Try checking all of the ECM grounds.

Awesome job! Do you have any pictures of welding the front cut into place?

Congrats! Pictures or it didn't happen

The question is do all 4 wheels still sit on the ground after they back down?

It is probably the hill holder valve if it has a place for a cable.

I wouldn't turn it over anymore without putting a timing belt on it. The valve timing is already off and these are interference engines. I would probably grab it.

+1 That's what I was trying to say above The (Chevrolet) procedure ^^^^ has worked fine for me more than once on Hydro EA81s. YMMV

My old mind is letting me down again Good luck in resolving it

Incorrect info deleted

In my experience ATF will almost always find a way through a welded aluminum repair that was done in the vehicle. It seems to be difficult to clean the metal enough so that the weld can work and seal up tight. Having been stuck in the middle of this situation before as a tech (between a shop owner, customer, and transmission shop) I personally won't install a leaking repaired a case again. The last time I tried this (it was a Ford) I did the R & R 3 times at 10+ hours per before it finally stayed dry. Each time it would last a few months and come back. You might have better luck with liquid steel or something like that. I repaired a GM transfer case with a crack in it and it stayed dry for years LOL. As always YMMV. This really sucks and it could bite anyone, thanks for the heads up. I hope you find an affordable resolution soon and good luck.

Ground to an intake bolt if it's an EJ engine is my guess. If it's an EA engine then look for the same size bolt in the area the wire will reach. Sometimes the wire will lay or rest near it's old location from "memory" of a sort. Pictures would help.

Very nice work I have always wanted to do this to my 83 Wagon.