GLCraig

i still have nightmares from having to tear down a few dozen of those. To answer a few questions no the front and rear diff are not the same. Even a EA71 Front diff is a little bigger then a rear diff. If you want to build a FT4WD tranny you could probably mate a transfer case from an RX transmission to non-turbo D/R 5-speed. it's been about 7 years since i did a tear down so I can't remember evey detail. Just remember to swap the gear the drives the transfer set too.

It depends on if you want to keep the engine fuel injected or not. If you do, well then your have a fair bit of wiring to deal with. If you're willing to keep the carburetor and distributor from your 85 then all you need to do is swap the long block and toss out the AIS since SPFI heads do not accommodate the AIS.

I've been imform that I'll be working overtime so I guess I'm out of the fun

There is another reason that this happens. Sometimes the splines in the hub will wear out and cause enough vibration to loosen the nut. If this is your case you should inspect the splines on the axle for damage too.

It will not pop in if I I double clutch. It won't even pop in if I'm just sitting with the engine turned off. The running 1st to near redline and dropping it into 3rd isn't a really good option with a legacy, the clutch will spin quite a bit and there isn't much left to the one I have.

My problem is the 1st to 2nd shift. 2nd to 3rd is just fine.

Swap the intake manifold, harnes and sensors. That's the best way to go.

Well I'm pretty sure the 5-speed in my legacy finally took a dump the other day. Ever since I bought it, it had the fairly common 2nd gear syncro grind that's associated with the early legacy 5-speeds. Well untill sunday when it finally decited that it would not go into 2nd at all. The syncro will engage enough that it will grind when i release the clutch but It will not slip into gear. Every other gear is just fine so I don't suspect that it's a linkage issue. Anyway I guess that I'll be replacing it with a used one. Now dose anyone remember which year they made the changes to the 5-speed to elimate this problem?

well shoot, how about a couple of us get together and buy baja a pint at McMinemins.

Links are fixed

The best I can do is diagrams from 83 http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/Diagram01.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/Diagram02.JPG If it's an emergency I could drive over with my 84 so you can have a first hand look.

The pads won't fit in the calipers and the EA82 rotors are bigger in diameter and thickness then an EA81

One thing to be aware of is that the ECU is designed to turn on the pump for a certain period of time while the engine is being started. After this period of time the ECU expects to receive a signal from the distributor. When it dose the ECU will turn the pump back on, if it doesn’t the pump will stay shut off and the engine will run until it uses up what's left of the fuel in the system.

There will be an Engine ID in about the same place the Engine ID is on an EA71/EA81/EA82. If it say EJ22 it's a 2.2 If it says EJ25 it's a 2.5 But I thing Subaru stopped selling the EJ22 in the US in 98 or 99.

The SPFI uses the Optical distributor like the later EA82T. It dose not have a vaccum advance or retard. Either the ECU controls the advance/retard or it stays at 20 degs all the time.

20 degs is the spec for a SPFI engine, see the attached pic. Your EGR system may have a problem with it, like a clogged tube, bad valve or a bad solenoid. Another possibility could be the plugs you are using. From what I've head, the Bosch plugs being sold for Subarus doesn’t use the right heat range. Try switching to NGK plugs. The Stock plug is a NGK BPR6ES-11.

hey what kinda supplies will we need to bring???

I can be there in the evening around oh.. 6:00ish

No, I took that one Austin oh yeah my car is there too

you may want to include the link for delta cam like you did with ralitek and a couple of other sponsers

If you live in the US the your engine would be an EJ18. The easiest thing to do if find another one and just swap the longblock. Keeping your existing intake manifold, emissions, and electronic simplifies everything. If we knew where in the world you live someone might be able to point out a local source.

Like I've allways have said. You buy the plane ticket and I'm there.

I had a similar problem a while back. Now one possibility is that you have bad starter contacts but since you tried 2 starters, I doubt that the contacts are your problem with both starters but not impossible. The Next possibility and the one that turned out to be my problem would be a bad battery cable. One way to check this is to hook up a voltmeter to the starter end of the battery cable and the other to a good ground. When you try to start it, if the voltage really drops then you probably have a bad cable or cable end. A way to comfier this is to connect a jumper cable to your starter in parallel to the battery cable and try to start it. Be careful when doing this, the last thing you want to do is short out the battery. A third possibility is that the electrical portion of your ignition switch has gone bad and what's happening is the solenoid begins to engage but you loose the circuit as you continue to turn the key.

The first thing I would to is put a pressure gage on the pump and see if you get pressure. Since you didn't describe any noise from the engine I would want to make sure that it's not a simple electrical fix before getting too deep into it

It means that your ECU stored a fault code because it didn't get a reading it liked from one of the engine sensors. You'll need to retive the code and determine the proper course of action