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Time to read the FSM. This is a 2014, but should be close, as the 2014 Forester was all new - in the USA. Brazil? Don't know. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2014/

I consider the HG's on the EJ-series, esp. the 2.5, as a maintenance item. As noted every 100-150K. But I also 'think' (no proof) that 3-4K oil changes and every two-year coolant/anti-freeze changes can help their longevity. Don't forget about rear wheel bearings, CV axles, fuel-filler pipes issues (from rust), misfires, etc. ...yes, I'd still buy one....but I know how to fix most of that stuff, so it's not a big deal. GL, Td

Hi and Welcome, Definitely NOT normal. But not unheard of. Certainly not a reason to avoid buying another Subaru. I'll let the tech/mechs chime in, but if you're the original owner and it's not had any other maintenance to the timing belt or related parts, not sure how that would occur. Depending on the damage - of course - I've read that isn't an end-all to the engine. It can be repaired w/out replacing the engine. Did your mechanic fix it? GL, Td

I'd also recommend replacing the CTS/Coolant temp sensor...Cheap but a PITA to replace. .....Although if Fairtax didn't suggest it, this might not apply.

Hi and Welcome, Also - post your year (Phase 1 - '90-'98 EJ22 or Phase 2 - '99-01 EJ22) and mileage...maybe maintenance history? Oil changes? Td

Er....the L is not the OutBack. Different struts and room under the 'spring perch', AFAIK. You're on Stock '98 L suspension??? But the 215-60-16 and the 205-70-15 (stock OB size) are the same height (diameter) but 10mm wider overall (205 vs. 215). As stated the OFFSET of the 16" wheels you get may be the deciding factor. IF the tires are already ON WHEELS then just bolt up the rears to see if they rub....my experience is the rears have LESS room than the fronts, so the fronts should fit if the rears do (225-60R-16 on '00 OB wheels would fit on the front, but not the back w/my '97 OB struts). Td

Hi, My knee-jerk answer is 'get rid of it' (preferably not selling to an unsuspecting private party) and be done w/it. Rebuilt is probably by a 3rd-party that knows how to fix Subaru's mistake. I didn't re-read this whole post and don't recall the specifics, but is there another dealer OR trans shop in GA that can give you another estimate? Did you check Car-part.com to see what the USED trans are selling for- if you can install it yourself? I wouldn't expect any help from SOA @ this point...esp. if you missed maintenance....unless there's an existing TSB/Recall on these, but that should've come up @ the last repair. Not much help....hopefully someone else has better info. Td

Hi Welcome to the USMB. As noted, you'll be limited to a Subaru seat. Your '08 is from the 3rd Generation of Outbacks - 2005-2009 - so those years will all bolt in, but may not all be compatible w/your '08 electronics. The Legacy models - GT, too - should also bolt in. If you're lucky, a Legacy GT Spec B seat may be the best of the bunch - hard to find? And $$. You don't mention the TRIM line of your '08. Here's what's on Cars101.com - based on engine. Find a version below that may have a different seat: 2.5L 4 cylinder Outback (replaces Outback Basic) Outback 2.5i Outback 2.5i LL Bean with Navigation, with VDC starting July 07 Outback 2.5i Limited, with VDC starting July 07 Outback 2.5i Limited LL Bean with Navigation, with VDC starting July 07 2.5L 4 cylinder turbo XT Limited with VDC XT Limited with VDC and Navigation 3.0L 6 cylinder Outback 3.0R LL Bean with Navigation and VDC

check this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/1999-2002/ Cars101.com: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance - I don't agree w/the 'Cam Belt' (timing belt) replacement. That's common on Hondas and Toyotas, but Subarus? Most EJ-series (yours is an EJ253) engines are 105K miles/10 years on the T-belt, AFAIK. 60K miles /5 years on the serpentine/drive/accessory belts sounds about right. Service manual should (?) have maintenance info. If you want a hard copy, ebay usually has them for sale. ALL RIGHT HERE. BTW, as yours is the transition year for the engine (EJ25D/DOHC to EJ253/SOHC) in the Forester, best to use your VIN to get parts. You can have the dealer look up the part numbers and then find them online. EDIT: WOW: I just read the Maintenance schedule from the above 'jdmfsm' link (it's for a NON-USA model Ej20); another one from an online dealership; and the Cars101 and they are all different for the Timing Belt! Some say 4Year/60K miles, another has the 10Year/105K and yet another has 6/60K....So, it depends on the exact year and engine. This is from the attached Endwrench (Subaru tech) document: Endwrench-Maintenance.pdf

Read this to see wheel/tire info for '06: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2006.html#mechanicals - Steel: heavy, surface rust, $ - Alloy: lighter, potential corrosion on bead, $$+ - Two sets of lug nuts may be required. I have chrome acorn (?) nuts for my WRX summer wheels; basic lug nuts for winter that Subaru used on their steel wheeled cars from the '90s. Same for my '07 RAV4. The alloys' lug nuts don't work w/the steelies. - I also recommend a set of wheel covers. They may help keep the steelies cleaner?? I've used both and all the above is true (except for the bolt pattern, which IS corrected by Numchux), but unless you're prone to curb abuse, the steelies are tough enough. But as you're in the land of salt, rust may be more of a concern. I've read that the skinner tire helps 'concentrate' the tread grip, depending on road conditions? But it may depend more on tread pattern, air pressure, etc? >>>>Googling now....LOOKS LIKE I've got some reading to do!

Hi, You have car insurance? Call them, tell them what happened and see what they suggest. But you may NOT want to make a claim for a minor issue and depending on your deductible, you may be better off following 'Lucky T'" suggestion above if it's an easy fix. You can use the Better Business Bureau and maybe even Social Media to find a reputable shop in your 'hood. I highly suggest you start scouting out your local area Subaru mechanics - doesn't have to be a dealer - for future maintenance concerns. Subarus aren't hard or expensive to work on, but a dedicated Subaru tech is always preferred. GL, TD

There is a TZ- code on the bellhousing of Subaru Trans. If those match then the Seller shouldn't have an issue. They may not match, but it should stil work. Other than you agreeing to buy it 'as is' - which I wouldn't do - I don't have any other ideas?? What is the original condition of the donor car? Crashed, etc.? And make sure it comes w/the Torque Converter - in case yours is bad?. Td

I believe people use the Scangauge product to see 'real time' engine parameters...assuming this is running the stock '98 EJ22 ECU as well.

Larry, Please explain What was different about the '06 top hats? The '03-'08 should all be the same - other than the XT (turbo) having different ground clearance- which could just be different springs?? I did see this that '06 had more ground clearance: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2006.html#specs thanks

'case connector' is not a familiar term, but I've found that many of Subaru's transmission pans start to leak over time. I've had some success just snugging up the 10mm bolts/screws that attach the pan to the trans. There a bunch of them. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them>>merely snug them up if loose. there's probably a torque rating on here/online somewhere.>>>try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117134-trans-pan-bolt-torque/ Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. I'd suggest seeing what the Owner's Manual states. You can download it from Subaru's site (@ least in sections) or from HERE. I am confused about your comment about the 'switch'. Is it an ON/OFF that stays "depressed" or is it like Subaru's old Cruise buttons which you pushed to turn it ON but the switch didn't actually stay depressed and the cruise would reset when car was turned off ( or the button was pushed again). GL, Td

Hi, He's in UT. This is covered on here many times so double-check, but the '95-'98 Legacy and Impreza used the same 4EAT w/a 4.11 FD ratio. you can also use the '96-'98 4EAT Legacy OB/GT, Impreza RS and Forester IF YOU CHANGE THE REAR diff to match their 4.44 ratio. And the '90-'91 Legacy used the same 4.11 ratio 4EAT. The '92-'94 could be used IF YOU CHANGE the diff to match their 3.90. So, if the car is worth it, there are multiple options. 5-speed swap has also been done many times but has many things to consider = Search on here and Online. FWD 4EAT would work but their are some gotchas and Why give up AWD? Look Car-part.com and ebay. I'd be wary of any AT trans that have been sitting on the shelf for more than a year as the seals may have dried up. TD

Your answer is above and I recommend to spend $1.50 and do a VIN check here: FREECHEAPVIN.COM. I've used it a lot over the last year while shopping. And this shows the cluster from the Owners Manual.

Dirt? Nah...just 'experienced' dust. :-)

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, That's the Shift Lock Release. It allows you to shift the transmission w/out putting in the key and pushing the brake. Ensure the PARKING BRAKE is SET before messing w/it...so you don't roll away.

When you installed that replacement TD04, did you replace the coolant lines? They get old and cracked like vacuum lines. Did you ensure the coolant copper crush washers were in good condition on BOTH sides of the banjo bolts? Many state to use new washers, but I've never had an issue reusing them (many times). The bubbling from the uppipe indicates a exhaust leak? Remember that the ICE process produces H2O.

Another subaru? :-) I'm not sure what sound a bad Turbo would make.....but it would surprise me if sounded like 'Knock'. The TD04 on these are not invincible so if the swap came out of 125K+ mile WRX, I'd replace it. And Rod Knock should be @ all RPMs??? TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, The 'L" has the EJ22/2.2 engine, not the EJ25D/2.5 which is the engine more prone to HG failure. Has your '96 Overheated, are there Bubbles in the coolant overflow tank? Have you looked UNDER the car for a coolant leak? Has it had any service work done recently? TD

Is the '09 Totalled/crashed/etc? Otherwise, fix the turbo, sell it and your '95 and buy a clean WRX. You'll be FAR ahead of doing a swap. Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. As noted above we need more info, but I'd HIGHLY recommend you spend some more time Searching, Reading, and Googling. RS25.com and NASIOC.com (they take no prisoners, so put on your big boy pants) probably have 2-2000 swaps detailing what you're doing. READ THE STICKIES @ the top of each forum - they are your new bible. :-) And remember, it'll likely cost twice as much and take four times as long to do the swap as you planned. GL, Td