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Yeah...I misread that...the non-turbo/NA LTD has the EJ25x engine that is known to blow Head Gaskets. If they've NOT been done, they will need done. They're likley leaking externally now - which doesn't mean they'll fail immediately but should be on the 'to do soon' list. Still overpriced. If the Maintenance/Service history includes the HG, and they're recently done it might be OK. But remember, when the HG start to go the car may overheat and if the PO (prev. owner) let it overheat badly or multiple times, the rod-end bearings on the crankshaft are doomed, which means a whole new engine, too. MANY Of the '90's EJ25 engines had their HG repaired only to have the engine blow-up. Granted this was due to an INTERNAL leak, but still a big deal if they overheated.

Not all. -OB XT and GT's never had a Mitsubishi TD04 - only a IHI VF-series. - '08+WRX and '09+ Forester XT had a TD04L variant w/the XT/GT's different flange for the TMIC. - '04-'06 Baja Turbo and '04-'08 Forester XT did use the TD04L-13T Regardless, none of the Subaru turbos are known for their longevity, IMHO.

Hi, Did you check for stored CODES? '96 is OBD2/OBDII so a scanner will hook up to the port. GL, Td

Hi, Do some more Googling, but you'll find that they both use the EJ255 engine and (I think) the same VF40 or VF46 turbo. Both the turbo and turbo engine are going to be failure points. I wouldn't touch that 220K GT w/a 100 ft. pole for anything over $4K (really), cuz you'll be putting a new engine in for $2500-$4K in the near term. The turbos fail and take the engine w/them, too. Unless you have ABSOLUTE proof that both cars were driven lightly and maintained meticulously (oil changes MUST be <4K miles since new), they're just not worth it. That same engine was used on the '06+WRX, Forester XT, OB XT, and they all have 'history' on their respective forums. The engine is also only slightly different that what is still used in the STi, and it has issues in that model, too. A better option, same power (but w/out the easier upgrades a turbo allows) is the 3.0R model that came out in '08. They seem to be pretty rare, but I'd pay for the 3.0/H6 over the 2.5 any day. If you buy the Turbo GT anyway, I highly recommend finding a Tuner (someone that can modify <flash> the ECU) and get a better tune than what's loaded on there stock. It will also help w/the 'lag' you noticed driving w/the 5EAT transmission. A good Tuner can tune it w/out any modifications to the existing engine, turbo, exhaust, etc. - it's all 'in the tune' on the ECU. GL, TD

^+1 Decent '91-'94 Turbos are going to be over your 'low rent' budget....If you can find one that's solid mechanically but seen better days cosmetically, you might get it for less...but stay away from Rusty Rigs. The problem w/your location is the ELEVATION. The NA Subarus are weak in the big Mtns, but reliable. A 5-speed will help a bit. The mid-90's EJ25D/ 2.5 engines are not recommend due to HG issues, but would handle the hills better.

FWIW, My OBD2 scanner 'lights up' when plugged in with the key OFF, but only connects to ECU when key is ON.

Hi, If you think it's just due to something getting spilled on the buttons -thanks to the location of the cupholder - you can spray some cleaner/degreaser (like 409) into the buttons, let it soak, then vacuum it back out....I'm not suggesting a 'bath' more like a sprinkle....maybe repeat 2 times. Recommend REMOVING the Negative battery cable BEFORE doing this so there's no power to anything...and letting it air dry after vacuuming. This has worked for me on a few occasions. GL, TD P.s. headgaskets been done?

Read up online, but I've read good things about Sensen, and there are usually struts and/or full assemblies (just bolt-on) avl. on Ebait. Not so much good about Monroe...but that may no longer be true. Search on Torque Bind, too. The center diff wears out and does like what you stated...more full-time 4x4 than AWD....but not as common on 5-speeds. For the record there were NO H6 + 5-speed manual from Subaru (in the USA @ least). And only the Outback (wagon and sedan) had the H6 as an option (depending on trim) from 2001-2004, I believe. GL, Td

HI and Welcome, I don't know what would cause that unless something was wet, froze, cracked>>Broke. Did you CLEAR all the codes w/the AP and see what came back? Please explain or fix a typo: "I took it to the dealership but they wouldn't look at it or else it might void the warranty" If you left your COBB AP attached when you took it in, this might make sense...and if you did, and they 'noted it', you may have warranty issues in the future - technically I've read that that they CAN NOT deny a warranty claim if the modification (mod) did not cause the issue, but that can be hard to prove. I'd go over on NASIOC.com and read up on related issues. GL, Td

Time to read the FSM. This is a 2014, but should be close, as the 2014 Forester was all new - in the USA. Brazil? Don't know. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2014/

I consider the HG's on the EJ-series, esp. the 2.5, as a maintenance item. As noted every 100-150K. But I also 'think' (no proof) that 3-4K oil changes and every two-year coolant/anti-freeze changes can help their longevity. Don't forget about rear wheel bearings, CV axles, fuel-filler pipes issues (from rust), misfires, etc. ...yes, I'd still buy one....but I know how to fix most of that stuff, so it's not a big deal. GL, Td

Hi and Welcome, Definitely NOT normal. But not unheard of. Certainly not a reason to avoid buying another Subaru. I'll let the tech/mechs chime in, but if you're the original owner and it's not had any other maintenance to the timing belt or related parts, not sure how that would occur. Depending on the damage - of course - I've read that isn't an end-all to the engine. It can be repaired w/out replacing the engine. Did your mechanic fix it? GL, Td

I'd also recommend replacing the CTS/Coolant temp sensor...Cheap but a PITA to replace. .....Although if Fairtax didn't suggest it, this might not apply.

Hi and Welcome, Also - post your year (Phase 1 - '90-'98 EJ22 or Phase 2 - '99-01 EJ22) and mileage...maybe maintenance history? Oil changes? Td

Er....the L is not the OutBack. Different struts and room under the 'spring perch', AFAIK. You're on Stock '98 L suspension??? But the 215-60-16 and the 205-70-15 (stock OB size) are the same height (diameter) but 10mm wider overall (205 vs. 215). As stated the OFFSET of the 16" wheels you get may be the deciding factor. IF the tires are already ON WHEELS then just bolt up the rears to see if they rub....my experience is the rears have LESS room than the fronts, so the fronts should fit if the rears do (225-60R-16 on '00 OB wheels would fit on the front, but not the back w/my '97 OB struts). Td

Hi, My knee-jerk answer is 'get rid of it' (preferably not selling to an unsuspecting private party) and be done w/it. Rebuilt is probably by a 3rd-party that knows how to fix Subaru's mistake. I didn't re-read this whole post and don't recall the specifics, but is there another dealer OR trans shop in GA that can give you another estimate? Did you check Car-part.com to see what the USED trans are selling for- if you can install it yourself? I wouldn't expect any help from SOA @ this point...esp. if you missed maintenance....unless there's an existing TSB/Recall on these, but that should've come up @ the last repair. Not much help....hopefully someone else has better info. Td

Hi Welcome to the USMB. As noted, you'll be limited to a Subaru seat. Your '08 is from the 3rd Generation of Outbacks - 2005-2009 - so those years will all bolt in, but may not all be compatible w/your '08 electronics. The Legacy models - GT, too - should also bolt in. If you're lucky, a Legacy GT Spec B seat may be the best of the bunch - hard to find? And $$. You don't mention the TRIM line of your '08. Here's what's on Cars101.com - based on engine. Find a version below that may have a different seat: 2.5L 4 cylinder Outback (replaces Outback Basic) Outback 2.5i Outback 2.5i LL Bean with Navigation, with VDC starting July 07 Outback 2.5i Limited, with VDC starting July 07 Outback 2.5i Limited LL Bean with Navigation, with VDC starting July 07 2.5L 4 cylinder turbo XT Limited with VDC XT Limited with VDC and Navigation 3.0L 6 cylinder Outback 3.0R LL Bean with Navigation and VDC

check this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/1999-2002/ Cars101.com: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance - I don't agree w/the 'Cam Belt' (timing belt) replacement. That's common on Hondas and Toyotas, but Subarus? Most EJ-series (yours is an EJ253) engines are 105K miles/10 years on the T-belt, AFAIK. 60K miles /5 years on the serpentine/drive/accessory belts sounds about right. Service manual should (?) have maintenance info. If you want a hard copy, ebay usually has them for sale. ALL RIGHT HERE. BTW, as yours is the transition year for the engine (EJ25D/DOHC to EJ253/SOHC) in the Forester, best to use your VIN to get parts. You can have the dealer look up the part numbers and then find them online. EDIT: WOW: I just read the Maintenance schedule from the above 'jdmfsm' link (it's for a NON-USA model Ej20); another one from an online dealership; and the Cars101 and they are all different for the Timing Belt! Some say 4Year/60K miles, another has the 10Year/105K and yet another has 6/60K....So, it depends on the exact year and engine. This is from the attached Endwrench (Subaru tech) document: Endwrench-Maintenance.pdf

Read this to see wheel/tire info for '06: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2006.html#mechanicals - Steel: heavy, surface rust, $ - Alloy: lighter, potential corrosion on bead, $$+ - Two sets of lug nuts may be required. I have chrome acorn (?) nuts for my WRX summer wheels; basic lug nuts for winter that Subaru used on their steel wheeled cars from the '90s. Same for my '07 RAV4. The alloys' lug nuts don't work w/the steelies. - I also recommend a set of wheel covers. They may help keep the steelies cleaner?? I've used both and all the above is true (except for the bolt pattern, which IS corrected by Numchux), but unless you're prone to curb abuse, the steelies are tough enough. But as you're in the land of salt, rust may be more of a concern. I've read that the skinner tire helps 'concentrate' the tread grip, depending on road conditions? But it may depend more on tread pattern, air pressure, etc? >>>>Googling now....LOOKS LIKE I've got some reading to do!

Hi, You have car insurance? Call them, tell them what happened and see what they suggest. But you may NOT want to make a claim for a minor issue and depending on your deductible, you may be better off following 'Lucky T'" suggestion above if it's an easy fix. You can use the Better Business Bureau and maybe even Social Media to find a reputable shop in your 'hood. I highly suggest you start scouting out your local area Subaru mechanics - doesn't have to be a dealer - for future maintenance concerns. Subarus aren't hard or expensive to work on, but a dedicated Subaru tech is always preferred. GL, TD

There is a TZ- code on the bellhousing of Subaru Trans. If those match then the Seller shouldn't have an issue. They may not match, but it should stil work. Other than you agreeing to buy it 'as is' - which I wouldn't do - I don't have any other ideas?? What is the original condition of the donor car? Crashed, etc.? And make sure it comes w/the Torque Converter - in case yours is bad?. Td

I believe people use the Scangauge product to see 'real time' engine parameters...assuming this is running the stock '98 EJ22 ECU as well.

Larry, Please explain What was different about the '06 top hats? The '03-'08 should all be the same - other than the XT (turbo) having different ground clearance- which could just be different springs?? I did see this that '06 had more ground clearance: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2006.html#specs thanks

'case connector' is not a familiar term, but I've found that many of Subaru's transmission pans start to leak over time. I've had some success just snugging up the 10mm bolts/screws that attach the pan to the trans. There a bunch of them. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them>>merely snug them up if loose. there's probably a torque rating on here/online somewhere.>>>try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117134-trans-pan-bolt-torque/ Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. I'd suggest seeing what the Owner's Manual states. You can download it from Subaru's site (@ least in sections) or from HERE. I am confused about your comment about the 'switch'. Is it an ON/OFF that stays "depressed" or is it like Subaru's old Cruise buttons which you pushed to turn it ON but the switch didn't actually stay depressed and the cruise would reset when car was turned off ( or the button was pushed again). GL, Td