idosubaru

Nice job tracking down, how did you suspect those? Good grief $10 an oring, seriously! I haven’t swapped many but I’ve never had issues with aftermarket fuel injector orings.

Oh yeah ask away. I was wondering in case no one replied as it’s probably an uncommon need and situation. The few I’ve had fail I just swap in another use one laying around. Ask someone to mail you two of them or one of each or two of each and Have them also mail you a pigtail for it so can you can make an adapter for yours? I would think it’s easier to install a 2 wire into a 1 rather than the other way around. FSM would show where those wires lead and what they’re used for.

They’re always done in the car. Unless it just happens to be out for some other reason. Like someone said why in the world wouldn’t you do it now while it’s easy?

Short answer: Change ATF, clear out hoses and passages and install AT filter. Is the AT or check engine light on? Is the AT pan dented or damaged? Explanation: Some early legacies had an issue with debris clogging the ATF lines. The repair was to install an ATF filter. Drain the ATF and clean out the ATF hoses and radiator cooling passage to make sure they’re free flowing. Then add an aftermarket transmissiom filter or see if Subarus special part or TSB part is still available. If yours has this filter already installed then replace the filter. Check the transmission pan for denting, the clearance between the pan and pump inlet is really small so if the pan is dented it can draw enough fluid. Solenoids could be damaged as well if the pan is dented though you’d typically have lights on for that Is the AT light ever on or flashing? Any check engine lights?

Needle fitting and 50 cents of grease into the timing pulley bearings. Tack weld crank pulley to prevent separation. Free Check (or replace) plug gap and cap and rotor wear. Starter contacts $8 or something. None of the sensors have significant failure rates. Maybe CTS? If reliability and repair is on the table get used MAF coil and alt and keep in trunk.

I’ve repaired a bunch by just pulling the radiator supports and headlight surrounds out and swapping damaged panels. It’s easy. Front clip swap is often way overkill the upper radiator support and headlights surrounds are so thin and flimsy and more functional rather than structural. As long as they’re not torn and destroyed and it’s not bent and crinkled just in front of the strut tower - just pull them back close and swap panels. One was totaled at 75 mph on the interstate, I rebuilt it and a few years later it spun out on some friends borrowing it at 75 mph head on into a guard rail and I rebuilt it again. The second impact was no different than a first impact event and held up just fine in a terribly scary event (5 friends were in it). Not that I ever thought it was a concern but with “Backseat internet repair commenatry” about how scary rebuilds are - I got to actually see a rebuilt get totaled again as an interesting data point.

Since nothing has likely been changed you could have the oil tested at a lab and cut open the oil filter to see if overheating hoses the lowers end bearings

Do you mean the actual cam marks? They need to line up. You shouldn’t need to do anything different or special. Line it all up, install and pull pin. I sometimes install without the lower pulley on the passengers side. Then once the belt is on install that pulley, just push up on the belt while installing it and the bolt. The timing belt marks don’t matter, they only line up every so many hundred revolutions after you install it.

no. it's really easy - just compress the tensioner with a c clamp and piece of wood or something else convenient. insert pin or thin allen wrench and you're done. it can be done, but I don't recommend it. get as much slack as possible in that region as possible, keep it there (don't allow it to be taken back up) and then turn the cam within/against the belt tension. it's possible but it's not easy and it's kind of silly considering how easy it is to compress the tensioner and do it again - verses risking it with an interference engine. wild mechanic method is to pry the timing tensioner back in place with a crow bar to gain some slack to remove the belt and install, or in your case adjust. but i don't recommend doing that to your tensioner particularly on an interference engine.

have you tested the ignition and voltages yet? i'd start there. i'd think the starter needs engine turning to see the signal wire and power feed. but i'm good at mis-interpreting/mis-speaking electrical stuff with typing.... 3 failed OEM starters with new contacts is an impossibility unless they're being dredged from the bottom of the ocean. take it off and test it - auto parts stores test starters or you can just do it on the ground. have any of the other ones still around - go test them too. of those 3 starters - there's a misdiagnosis, information, installation, or some other issue. maybe this current *one* has a failure since of course it's a mechanical part and anything can fail. but there's so much poor history in this repair that i would not condemn another starter until all voltages and ignition operation are verified and the starter is thoroughly and properly tested.

Don't let them replace or diagnose a failed rear differential, those never fail but some people unfamiliar with subaru's will assume they're the issue and swap them and it never fixes the vehicle.

yeah the orings will deform over time and look different, if you mean square cross section, it's just from time/compression/materials degradation. the rollers will spin freely if they're lacking grease. new pulleys won't spin because they're full of grease. seems backwards at first, but that's how it is in this case.

just get the parts you need, they're not hard to find and readily available, no need to try to do swaps you can't figure out: www.car-part.com are you sure it's not just benign surface rust and you're worrying about nothing? us northeast people see cars rusting through with holes and failing parts yearly and a "u frame" is not something that typically rusts/fails. and if it did normally the car would have so many falling apart body panels it wouldn't command $4,000. maybe it got salt on it then sat in a field of grass for years which is terrible for vehicles, but just making sure.

Right - but the first time you removed a perfectly fine starter and installed a bad one (presumably you said it stuck - check all the relay/wiring/ground). First time was wiring issues which again presumably are resolved - so now there's a sticking/bad starter. I wouldn't want the liability of getting stranded somewhere given how many aftermarket starters fail. Some people might be okay taking a high percentage risk, if that's you then yeah just ignore it and see what happens. A new starter sticking and freeing is common. Saw it last year. Fine first month or 3, stuck, then progressively suck more and failed in a few months. He got his Money back and I installed an OEM one for him. Not uncommon at all, but you could conceivably get lucky but my time isn't worth it on components like starters, fuel pumps, and alternators which strand the vehicle.

1. verify wiring as said 2. personally i'd get a used OEM Subaru starter and replace the contacts. they're a dime a dozen.

i think it's cool nipper just posted! hi! "I was gonna sell my brat....but i got high" "Benjamins in my lap...but i got high" ignoring price, the hoodscoop is entirely not my style

cut power to the Duty C and you're instantly "locked" in 4WD. install a switch to open and close that wire and then you can control when you're locked or not and do the full repair when it's convenient. i prefer installing that switch anyway so i can lock it when i want.

It’s probably fine. Line those marks up and then see how far the others are off. It’ll all settle a few degrees once the tensioner is pulled and engine rotated so where you set it isn’t precisely where it has to end. It just has to be within the window of “one tooth” I’ve never seen a failed tensioner pulley either. I have seen slapping tensioners but only making noise not actually causing any damage or issue with the belt.

I would check to see if that’s an ATF temperature issue? I’m not sure what overtemp ATF would cause but I think there is a sensor and it must do something to trigger an notice. Normally codes make it flash, the light shouldn’t just stay on, so that probably means something specific.

Reread what Gloyale said - don’t use any connectors. Count the LED flashes on the ECU. How are you using that diagnostic plug? What are you doing with it or hooking up tonit and where are you getting instructions to do this?

I replied on another forum. Verify ATF dipstick, ATF drain plug and make sure the trans has ATF before you start the engine. Make absolutely sure. There are ATF, engine oil, and front diff drain plugs and dipsticks. You’re likely confusing them. Look in the owners manual Download free FSMs online Google it

Not sure. Ideally someone that knows those two distinctions sees this post and confirms later today. I’d personally go for that kit since those engines are all the same block and heads. But I don’t like recommending “what I’d do” to others. Worst case buy the kit then you might have to order the belt from Subaru. Or just get all the parts from Subaru. Online discount Subaru dealers offer 20% lower prices than local dealers. I have a dealer which gives me that discount in person if you want to ask yours to do the same. The price wouldn’t be that much more than that Aisin kit I don’t think. $100 tensioner, $100 pulleys, $50 belt - $250-$300. My connectivity is poor or I’d look up a Subaru kit.

If the pulleys are original they should be replaced. You’ll feel them when removed, they won’t spin like new pulleys full of grease. Since they are intended for 105,000 miles of use on an interference engine it’s generally risky to not replace them or use inferior quality. Timing belts are easy enough on these engines that if you can DIY you can always check them periodically. Pull the belt at 50,000 miles and see where you’re at if you want to approach this piecemeal - replace just a belt or just the lower sprocket, etc. The lower sprocket results in immediate engine failure most of the time if it fails and should be replaced evert my time. They’re like $35 from Subaru. The other two idlers the belt can slide over for a while if they seize and it will slowly burn up, giving you some small amount of time.

I’ll check the link you posted.

As you found, aisin was providing an additional kit. it doesn’t seem common, odd given how many more outbacks there are and they are higher valued vehicles. Unless that’s just around here. It would be nice to know the precise physical reason there’s a different belt for what is essentially the same engine. I think it’s the belt teeth that are said to be different. Convoluted considering engines swaps are not rare. Are the cam sprocket, crank sprocket, and toothed sprocket the same part number for those engines/models? If the teeth are different, and it mattered, those couldn’t be the same. I never heard of different lower sprocket part numbers. Crank and cam will be confusing since different Katy numbers exist for the two different trigger styles. Maybe GD or GLoyale old school CCR folks would have something to say?